Previous owner said this overheated and blew a head gasket. I doubt it.

Tearing apart my new-old engine.  No real evidence of a blown headgasket to me.  However, for various reasons it feels like they were running straight water in this truck and it rusted everything out.

Thoughts?

Gonna tear into the bottom end in a bit, provided it doesn't storm half the day.  Prepare for pics of that as well.

1-2 w/headgasket

3-4 w/headgasket

5-6 w/headgasket

Cylinder Head

1-2

3-4

5-6

No headgasket

1-2

3-4

5-6

Headgasket

As you can see above, the two not-really coolant passages (check the head, there's no passage through the head for this) on either side of the #3 cyl (with the screwdriver) are pretty solidly rusted, I've knocked some of it out.

 Usually with a blown head gasket at least one cylinder is steam cleaned and shiny.  I doubt it.  I bought a 96SS with bad headgaskets.  After I filled, vented and replaced the bad overflow tank in the coolant system all is well. 

I have rarely seen blown headgaskets remove the carbon from pistons/chambers.  I mean, I have seen it, but it is uncommon enough to be notable.

If they were running straight water, it could have been boiling in the head and acting like a combustion leak.

Bearings and such.  Normal wear I think.  No ridges or anything weird on any of the cylinders.  I am concerned with how much guck was in the bottom of the oil pan, though.
With the rust I'm thinking I'll fully disassemble, drop the block off to get hot tanked and then reassemble and go.

That looks about right for gick.

You should see some of the Range Rover V8s (old Buick based lump) for sludge.  I have scooped a full quart of goop out of their oil pans on a few occasions.  Engines were running fine, they just liked de-refining their oil.

Lots of chance that the overheat could be from plugged up water passages inn the block too. Especially if they were running Florida anti freeze. Are the water pump impeller blades rusted off?

Just check the straightness of the block and head.

In reply to Ranger50 :

Got a known good head that was recently rebuilt I'm going to put on, so won't worry about the head.  Block is a concern of course, but more around those areas that rusted than straightness.

Mr_Asa said:

With the rust I'm thinking I'll fully disassemble, drop the block off to get hot tanked and then reassemble and go.

 

 agree with this 100%.    While the bearings appear to be in fair condition, if available, I'd install new ones for the rebuild.  I'd also check piston deck height, by tightening that some you might make a bit more power.

oldeskewltoy said:

Mr_Asa said:

With the rust I'm thinking I'll fully disassemble, drop the block off to get hot tanked and then reassemble and go.

 

 agree with this 100%.    While the bearings appear to be in fair condition, if available, I'd install new ones for the rebuild.  I'd also check piston deck height, by tightening that some you might make a bit more power.

I'd love to, but every machine shop I've spoken with seems to be backed up for half a year.

Do have a couple friends with mills.  Maybe I could chuck it on one and take a hair off?  Need to see what sort of setup they might have

Do a careful check for cracks.

I had one where off roading the fan hit the radiator....wound up driving it nearly 10 miles without coolant. Ran fine after putting a new radiator in it and drove it another year before a crash ended it. Upon teardown of the engine the head was warped .030 (1/32")