Proper Chemical Paint Stripper to use on Fiberglass panels?

Hello GRM Hive,

What is a fiberglass safe chemical paint stripper to use on a panel?

Thanks for the help!

Greg

Lotta variables.  Know what the resin used to hold the fiberglass in place was? Use the wrong stuff you might cause damage at a molecular level.

I'd probably lean towards mechanical means, myself.

Talking about fiberglass repair, just dropping this here in case it helps:

I found good luck with strippers containing "methylene chloride" which is now banned because people died. Everything else I have tried was, at best, 3x worse. As stated above, this also depends on your fiberglass. I had some sections repaired with polyester that it would eat right up. It didn't dissolve the epoxy sections. This worked out great for me since I was removing the bad polyester repairs anyways. 

This was the good stuff: http://kleanstripauto.com/products/aircraft-paint-remover

I'd give their latest recipe a shot since you know they at least tried to baseline the old stuff, but I don't know how it'd do. 

David S. Wallens said:

Talking about fiberglass repair, just dropping this here in case it helps:

https://www.youtube.com/embed/DLJecJfFUGI?rel=0

 

This inspired me to just f'ing get to work on The World's Most Expensive Boat,  so yes it is helpful 

In reply to Mr_Asa :

Rock on. 

cyow5 said:

I found good luck with strippers containing "methylene chloride" which is now banned because people died. Everything else I have tried was, at best, 3x worse. As stated above, this also depends on your fiberglass. I had some sections repaired with polyester that it would eat right up. It didn't dissolve the epoxy sections. This worked out great for me since I was removing the bad polyester repairs anyways. 

 

This was the good stuff: http://kleanstripauto.com/products/aircraft-paint-remover

 

I'd give their latest recipe a shot since you know they at least tried to baseline the old stuff, but I don't know how it'd do. 

There is a parts cleaner out there that still has the good stuff in it.  All sorts of other things in it, but still has the MeC.

Berryman Chem Dip #0905, from what I can find online. 

@ Mr_Asa 

I really don't know - unknown composition Brand new Fiberglas hood that has been in the rafters for over 10 years..

I bust it outta storage to get it on my car, get it all Test fitted, aligned, minding the gaps etc, cleaned, and prepped. Laid paint on it and have fisheyes!  Gotta strip that new paint off and try again. I have no Idea where the contamination came from, but it looks awful.

So I do not know what resin / gelcoat formula is under there.. Sorry.

@David S. Wallens 

Thanks for sharing -I did watch that one a while back but its worth a good review again.

Greg

@ Mr_Asa 

I really don't know - unknown composition Brand new Fiberglas hood that has been in the rafters for over 10 years..

I bust it outta storage to get it on my car, get it all Test fitted, aligned, minding the gaps etc, cleaned, and prepped. Laid paint on it and have fisheyes!  Gotta strip that new paint off and try again. I have no Idea where the contamination came from, but it looks awful.

So I do not know what resin / gelcoat formula is under there.. Sorry.

@David S. Wallens 

Thanks for sharing -I did watch that one a while back but its worth a good review again.

Greg

Imbeded release agent from when it was first molded is the probable cause for the fish eyes. Most likely polyester resin and I would not use MeC on it. The paint with fish eyes will come off easier than good paint too. The real problem here is going to be getting it clean enough to take fresh paint. Mechanical sanding is likely to push the contaminent further into the surface, and not remove it enough.

Since they tell you to wax the molds before starting , does that get into the surface of the finished part ?

if so how to you solve that problem ?
 

Thanks

californiamilleghia said:

Since they tell you to wax the molds before starting , does that get into the surface of the finished part ?

if so how to you solve that problem ?
 

Thanks

Yes That's what I am wondering??!?

In reply to californiamilleghia : and Slantsix

 The release agents and waxes wash off reasonably well when the parts are new, but are never removed thoroughly by the manufaturer. The OP's part was left unfinished in storage so all bets are off. Heat cycles and random abrasion play an ugly part here. The normal wax removal cleaning sequence is particularly ineffective if there has been any abrasion.

Mechanical removal down to fiber, new gelcoat top coat, prep that?

Best I have.