Any hints for removing the engine in a 96 legacy to replace the clutch and timing belt? It looks simple, but who knows. Also, the timing belt is broken, so is it obvious how to get everything lined up again? (I have the manual but i didnt read it yet, i figured id ask here too while im thinking about it). I have done clutches and timing belts on other cars so hopefully it will be a farily easy job.
I have completed a series of videos on Subaru engine removal/maintenance - videos 1 thru 3 should be pretty useful to you. the car used in the videos is an EA82 but EJ-series motors come out the same way
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=art+of+subaru&search_type=&aq=f
Fox is my roommate/shop buddy...lots of good info in those videos.
The only difficult thing with all that you're planning is a confusing bit on the timing belts. There are multiple marks on the crank pulley, DO NOT USE THE ARROW, USE THE ROUND DOT.
Once you've done one the engine can come out in under an hour.
Pull the radiator
Go underneath undo the exhaust from the heads, the 2 nuts on the studs holding the engine to the transmission and the 2 nuts holding the engine mounts to the crossmember. (all of these take a 14mm socket)
Disconnect the 2 electrical harnesses at the passenger rear of the engine, the throttle, coolant lines to the heater core and fuel lines.
Detach the PS pump and AC compressor and swing them off to the side
Take out the top 2 bolts holding the engine and trans together, the one also holds the top of the starter
Hoist the engine to clear the engine mounts from the crossmember then Jack under the transmission to support the trans.
Separate the engine from the trans and yank
Hocrest forgot to mention pulling the air inlet tubing and brake vacuum hose. Tack on an extra minute to get that done. 
Read the manual for the timing marks, they are straight forward. However, I'm pretty sure by '96 the EJ22 was an interference engine, so you might have some bent valves to deal with.
It is a SHOCKINGLY simple engine to pull relative to other modern cars, especially in cars without ABS, cruise control, etc. to get in the way. I can have the engine in our Chump Car Impreza pulled in about 15 minutes now that I've pulled Subie engines a few times. Draining the coolant and getting the fuel lines off is usually the hardest part of pulling the engine. Getting it back in can be tricky, since the engine mounts want to fight you while you line up the trans input shaft with the clutch disk. Using a jack under the trans to get just a slightly different angle of approach on assembly helps.
Bryce
I thought all the 2.2's were non interference??
digdug18 wrote: I thought all the 2.2's were non interference??
Nope. All EJ18s are non-interference. I just asked the internet and it says I'm wrong, the EJ22 went to interference in '97 (not '96, as I was thinking):
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine#EJ22
Bryce
Nashco wrote:digdug18 wrote: I thought all the 2.2's were non interference??Nope. All EJ18s are non-interference. I just asked the internet and it says I'm wrong, the EJ22 went to interference in '97 (not '96, as I was thinking): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine#EJ22 Bryce
'96 was the changeover year; I HAVE seen interference EJ22's in MY96 cars, but the non-interference is more common.
early EJ22 turbo motors are non-interference. The early NA EJ22(E?) was definitely a crash motor.
Well if i have to I can replace the heads, but I am going to assume for now that its fine, becasue 99% of the information i have heard about them says dont worry about it. One question though, I started working on it today, and I dont see how the A/C compressor comes off easily, whether you take the whole bracket off or just the compressor, there are a couple bolts that dont look like they cna be reached without further disassmbly.
so my '95 (OBD II) impreza outback (2.2) is a non-interference motor ?
From what i understand, the 2.2 is non interference until the heads were redesigned for 1997.
Travis_K wrote: One question though, I started working on it today, and I dont see how the A/C compressor comes off easily, whether you take the whole bracket off or just the compressor, there are a couple bolts that dont look like they cna be reached without further disassmbly.
If memory serves, there's just four ~15mm bolts that hold the compressor to it's brackets on the driver's side, two up top, two tucked down low. I've still got the half dead compressor from my old '93 Legacy in my storage unit, I'll take look see as to where said mounting points are.
A/C comp. is easy. It just unbolts and swings out of the way. I used a few extensions and there is a bracket that unbolts under it.
Pulling a Subie motor is one of the easiest motor pulls I've done in a long time.
Ok, I got everything off of the engine except one thing. On the passenger side of the engine, there are 3 plugs (2 large and one small), and I cant get the smaller one apart. I reallly dont want to have make a 2 hout round trip to get one from the junkyard to break apart to see how it works, so does know how to do it?
There's a small tab that squeezes in, then the connector pulls apart...nothing fancy, same as the big connectors. Going by memory, that sounds like the O2 sensor connector (four wires?)...make sure it's something you actually need to disconnect before you fight with it any more, as you don't actually need to disconnect the O2 sensor depending on how far you let the exhaust hang down.
Bryce
This was the first engine replacement that I took part in. It was so easy that I was shocked. You seem to be on the right track. Just do what Nashco said about the plugs. If you don't need to unplug it, don't.
I think I remember the ones you are looking at though and they might need to come out. They're nothing to worry about. If you break them, then go to the junk yard and get replacements. But it's Japanese. Those plugs aren't going to be brittle and snap on you like most Ford connectors seem to be designed to do.
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