I wouldn't worry about radiator corrosion from a water spray. You do drive the motor home in the rain.
I wouldn't worry about radiator corrosion from a water spray. You do drive the motor home in the rain.
Id do the bigger radiator and move to a huge external trans cooler. Solves the connection issue.
Like someone else mentioned a bunch fo heat is coming from your trans.
In 4l60s and 80s Ive had luck dropping tras temps a material amount by switching to John Deere hygard
The 4R100 will puke the front pump seal when it gets too hot.
DrMikeCSI said:I wouldn't worry about radiator corrosion from a water spray. You do drive the motor home in the rain.
Yup, once or twice a year when a few drops get on it as opposed to concentrating gallons of mineral-y tap water on it daily. I know it's an issue with air/air intercoolers when you spray. It's a known (but not apocalyptic) thing.
I didn't take a pic, but I looked through the grill today & there's an external cooler mounted in front of the radiator. Would an E450 chassis have an external oil cooler?
In reply to Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) :
They probably had an external cooler from the factory, our Super Duty did.
A bigger one can't hurt.
The sprayer is a good idea, but before I started that I'd look at the ducting and gasketing. Are there defectors that force the air through the radiator and gaskets sealing around it, or can the air bypass the radiator and flow around it?
Big Ol' motorhome... I'd bet that there is little to no ducting or gasketing.
If people are that worried about minerals spray the rad down with CLR every now and then and rinse clean.
All the following should be looked at:
I would make sure the fan clutch is working properly
Is the fan properly shrouded
Look at your radiator. Is it partially internally clogged? Replace/upgrade as needed.
Is the AC condenser clogged (if it has one). Are the fins of the rad clogged?
Are all the plastic pieces in front of the Rad present and sealed properly to put all the air through the rad?
Add a pusher electric fan.
Add a much bigger separate Tran cooler with its own temperature controlled fan. Do this no matter what else you find/do.
So progress has been slow, but I just finished the install.
The nozzles are pretty much invisible unless you're looking for them.
Unfortunately I did discover a problem.
Because the reservoir is above the nozzles, fluid continues to flow after the pump is turned off. I looped the line so it goes above the top of the reservoir, but there's still enough capillary action that it will continue to dribble out until the tank is drained. :-/
Is there something like a 12v operated 1/8" inlet & outlet valve that I could use to prevent this?
Yes. Just search 1/8" 12V valve. Get a NC valve, preferably brass or SS.
In reply to Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) :
If you use the fresh water supply tank you'll have a much bigger supply of water than a separate tank . Or maybe you can set the tank up to be refilled from your fresh water supply?
Want to be really thifty? If you have a separate gray water tank. ( shower/ sink ) You could spray that, cool your radiator while disposing of gray water. That water is probably cleaner than the muddy water going through your radiator during the rain.
Solenoid valve. If you're sifting through the 650,000 offerings on Amazon and wonder which one of the cheap ones actually works well... Amazon.com: 1/8" Brass Electric Solenoid Valve 12V DC Normally Closed NBR : Industrial & Scientific
I have several of these ranging from 1/4" up to 1/2", some normally open, some normally closed, some 12v, some 120v. I use and abuse them at the theater for effects, then I shove them in a dusty box for two years until I need them again. None of them have failed to perform.
I use the 1/2" for home-made confetti cannons. Fill up an air compressor with 150 psi, then have the light board trigger the dimmer to send juice to these thingys, and bingo... confetti. I used some 1/4" to control a vomit machine. On cue, the solenoid opens allowing a pressurized canister full of coffee creamer to spew out of a tube hidden in the actor's costume.
New to the thread - I remember these from the 60s the local garbage trucks had them (White cab overs)
https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/canvas-water-bag-useful.80460/
Why not plumb to the greywater tank? Its an rv. Recycle! Then, no extra weight or real complexity, and its one of the lowest points in the whole rig
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Nothing like the smell of rotting food bits, dead human skin cells from the shower, and a cocktail of bacteria hitting a sizzling hot radiator. Yum.
Is the bumper hollow? Turn that into a tank.
Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Nothing like the smell of rotting food bits, dead human skin cells from the shower, and a cocktail of bacteria hitting a sizzling hot radiator. Yum.
Soup is good food.
Those are some truly awesome/horrible ideas guys!
Curtis, thanks for the link. That valve should be here tomorrow.
I went with this solution as the best quick/easy/cheap one. I knew I wouldn't have enough time for anything complex - It's taken me 3-weeks+ to get this much done.
I like both ideas for using the grey water tank & putting a tank behind behind the bumper. But again, that's more than I could tackle before our trip & honestly it's unlikely I could make either option work well with my questionable skills.
If you set the sprayer up to only trigger above a certain temp, water useage may not be all that high. It's been 20 years, but that intercooler sprayer would pulse something like 1s on, 6s off under boost. I suspect you don't need anything near that much.
We also had the "tank higher than the sprayer" problem, to the point where we called the sprayer system The Dribbler. We kept it clamped off until the car went on track. That was a fix in the pits, the solenoid is a little more clever.
BTW, when I have a circuit breaker like yours, I take a piece of vacuum line and slip it over the studs. Minimizes the chance of something shorting to the terminals.
Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:Solenoid valve. If you're sifting through the 650,000 offerings on Amazon and wonder which one of the cheap ones actually works well... Amazon.com: 1/8" Brass Electric Solenoid Valve 12V DC Normally Closed NBR : Industrial & Scientific
I have several of these ranging from 1/4" up to 1/2", some normally open, some normally closed, some 12v, some 120v. I use and abuse them at the theater for effects, then I shove them in a dusty box for two years until I need them again. None of them have failed to perform.
I use the 1/2" for home-made confetti cannons. Fill up an air compressor with 150 psi, then have the light board trigger the dimmer to send juice to these thingys, and bingo... confetti. I used some 1/4" to control a vomit machine. On cue, the solenoid opens allowing a pressurized canister full of coffee creamer to spew out of a tube hidden in the actor's costume.
We need a thread about THESE shenanigans.
Thanks again to Curtis' suggestion, it solved the leakage & the system seems to be working.
In reply to Keith Tanner :
That's a good idea about the hoses. It concerned me a bit, but the hood is fiberglass & there's not anything mounted above the breaker. I have plenty of vacuum line though, so I'll put some over the terminals just to be safe.
In reply to Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) :
Those little E36 M3s work great, eh?
In reply to Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) :
How's the performance of this setup Pete? How much water does it use, do you run sustained or do you go intermittent. Thanks
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