How do you set up one ? Separate rear calipers or can you tap into existing rear calipers?
Says here they go inline and use the existing service brakes. http://www.rallynsw.com.au/fitting-hydraulic-hand-brakes-to-your-rally-car/
Keep in mind you can't use one for a parking brake, the hydraulics don't hold pressure that reliably.
You'll want to get a dual reservoir system to retain ABS function as well, a dual system can also allow for retainment of parking brake use
I have a hydraulic handbrake in my car.
its primary function is to make other people think they need one, then install one, then drive much slower times as they try to figure out how to use it.
It is also convenient for driving in traffic since I don't need to use the foot brake to load the engine down so it doesn't buck the U-joints apart. (Big ported rotary hates being driven lightly)
Plumbing is to route the brake line to the rear brakes into the hydro master's inlet, then the outlet goes to the rear brakes. A split-diagonal system needs to be converted to front/rear or it needs a special ridiculously expensive master, it's like $1400 from AP.
I have a wilwood master to use as a hydraulic handbrake on my Miata but I have never felt like I really need it so it sits in my parts pile.
The drift boys do something to the stock hand brake so it can be pulled up without locking. I know OP wanted hydraulic, but put a sheet metal screw into the plunger for a zero $ spinning brake?
wheelsmithy wrote: The drift boys do something to the stock hand brake so it can be pulled up without locking. I know OP wanted hydraulic, but put a sheet metal screw into the plunger for a zero $ spinning brake?
They call that a Drift Button. At the higher end, a lot of drift guys also run a hydraulic handbrake with a second set of calipers mounted on the rear.
I've considered one on my car and it's on my someday list. With AWD or RWD, I'm not sure how much it would benefit, but with FWD turbo I want to be able to swing the rear end and modulate speed without having to lift. Now I use a combination of left foot braking and the cable handbrake and that's okay. Last year I had a chance to drive a FWD car with one and it seemed easier to rotate the car without risking giving too much left foot brake and slowing the drive wheels too much.
My research indicated that it has its own master cylinder and a check valve and gets teed in to the rear brake hydraulic line.
Negative. If you TEE it in, all it will do is pump fluid into the other master cylinder, and applying the foot brake will pump fluid into the hydro handbrake.
It just gets mounted inline, no check valve tomfoolery required. When you apply the foot brake, fluid just passes through.
You can also apply the foot brake and the handbrake at the same time to alter the brake bias. Great for those muddy events in a RWD where the foot brake mostly just locks the front wheels without slowing you down. Locked wheels don't steer.
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