Have a (new to me) 2013 Ford Fusion Hybrid Titanium. Got a check engine light the other day. Hooked it up to an OBD scanner and was presented with these codes:
- P0344-00 – Camshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit Intermittent (Bank 1 or single sensor) - Not Current DTC
- B13FA-13 – Audio Input 4 - Circuit Open - Not Current DTC
- B13F9-13 – Audio Input 3 - Circuit Open - Not Current DTC
- B13F8-13 – Audio Input 2 - Circuit Open - Not Current DTC
- B13F7-13 – Audio Input 1 - Circuit Open - Not Current DTC
- UO46B-86 – Invalid Data Received from Global Positioning System Module - Signal Invalid - Not Current DTC
- U0401-00 – Invalid Data Received from ECM / PCM A - Not Current DTC
- U0415-00 – Invalid Data Received from Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module - Not Current DTC
- U3003-68 – Battery voltage - Event Information - Not Current DTC
Car is driving fine. No change from previous. No odd noises, smells, etc. The check engine light seems to appear sporadically; it didn't appear this morning but resurfaced again this afternoon.
Doing some Googling right now to figure out which ones are serious and what these fixes might entail. Thought I’d post here to see if anyone has any experience with these, though. Which ones should I be worried about? Which ones can I probably ignore? Can any of these be fixed by someone with minimal automotive knowledge and tools?
Check the 12V battery. Hondas have a fun issue when those start to get weak to throw all sorts of wierd unrelated codes that sound a lot like this.
Anything in particular I should be looking for?
Tom Suddard
Director of Marketing & Digital Assets
3/10/20 3:31 p.m.
Yeah, electrics and hybrids get super funny when the 12v battery gets weak. Load test it and you'll likely find it's due for replacement.
My Prius experience tells me the same thing about suspecting the 12v battery.
Congrats on the '13 Fusion Hybrid. I like my ole Prius but I look at the '13+ Fusion Hybrid longingly. Actually, I think I would like a MKZ Hybrid. Some real lux touches and good economy. That is a rare combo.
Ignore history codes, especially if any of them involve battery voltage. That is not to say to not check up on the 12V battery, just that you shouldn't pay them much heed if things are currently working. Can't diagnose what is not acting up.
All those Body codes and U codes will not be the cause of a check engine light, those would be in other modules. History codes will also generally not cause a check engine light, as it has to be a current code. They turn into history codes once they have passed a certain number of times.
The only one I'd be concerned about is the cam sensor code. The rest of them are either fluff, or a communication glitch that probably won't ever ger worse.
You should see the full scan report on a Volvo if it hasn't been cleared for a few years. It's like a bloody novel, with each character showing up for one page only.
I'll run over to the local AutoZone this week to get the battery tested.
Is there anything I could do on my own to follow up on the cam sensor code (if it's not battery related)? Or is that something I'm going to have to have to take into a shop to get looked at?
I'd check the price of the cam sensor. If it's cheap, I'd install it and clear the codes, and see what happens. If it gets better, cool. If not, you've eliminated the simple part of the diagnostic.
And use an OEM part. Aftermarket electronic sensors are the devils work.
