dean1484
dean1484 MegaDork
9/1/15 7:18 p.m.

So the factory sais it is not doable. I found a link to a posible way that involves replacing the rear upper control arms with ones from a 2004 Volvo S40 (that are adjustable)

My problem is that I went to align it the other day and I was able to get everything but the rear camber in spec. It should be at about -.6 and it was at -1.9

I was thinking of elongating the upper and lower control arm bolt holes and seeing about doing it that way but the Volvo option was found doing some internet searching and I wondered if anyone had any other "easy button" way of doing it.

All bushings and control arms are new in the rear so this is not a bushing issue or bent control arm problem. I even swapped the upper and lower control arms left to right to see if it was a manufacturing problem with the parts but the problem did not follow the parts from one side to another.

EDIT: Thread I found showing the Volvo control arm.

http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x-type-x400-14/found-adjustable-rear-upper-control-arm-88530/

TR7
TR7 New Reader
9/1/15 8:42 p.m.

Is there not a set of eccentrics under the diff that does this?

dean1484
dean1484 MegaDork
9/1/15 8:56 p.m.

Nope those do everything but camber. There it talk of loosening the rear subframe and shifting it but that would mess up the good side. This is a normal problem with these cars.

dean1484
dean1484 MegaDork
9/1/15 9:12 p.m.

The Volvo parts are only $40 each new so I am going to pull the trigger on a set. They say you need to remove the jamb nut to get an additional quarter inch of adjustment. I am going to look at getting half thickness nuts (jamb nuts)to replace the two full thickness ones. That should reduce the thickness by the needed amount.

TR7
TR7 New Reader
9/1/15 9:14 p.m.

Hmmm. I wouldn't mess with the subframe, but remember having this dilemma with mine, thought I was able to fiddle with everything enough to get it right. Never found the Volvo arms in the yard so I never tried that.

wspohn
wspohn HalfDork
9/2/15 10:55 a.m.

The adjustable control arm replacement is common on many cars that come without any, or without sufficient adjustment. Mazda 3 is another one.

-1.9 is probably borderline acceptable and may even give you better handling if you drive hard, at the inevitable cost of wearing the tires a bit sooner than otherwise would be the case.

TR7
TR7 New Reader
9/2/15 11:16 a.m.
wspohn wrote: The adjustable control arm replacement is common on many cars that come without any, or without sufficient adjustment. Mazda 3 is another one. -1.9 is probably borderline acceptable and may even give you better handling if you drive hard, at the inevitable cost of wearing the tires a bit sooner than otherwise would be the case.

I agree, the rears will wear on the inside and the fronts on the outside. I would just rotate them every now and again.

Type Q
Type Q Dork
9/2/15 12:34 p.m.

Is this a place where you can use the "crash bolt" trick? Instead of elongating the upper bolt holes you put a slightly undersized bolt (like 1mm smaller) in place of the regular bolt to get just a little bit of adjustability. Some OEM's supply these bolts for collision repairs.

Jay_W
Jay_W Dork
9/3/15 4:46 p.m.

it just occurred to me, when we replaced the front lower control links on the back of our xtype, not only did we regain toe control, camber came back into spec. The bushings were worn enough to let the hubs move about some in both planes. Ya might wanna check those. The alignment shop we used to take it to, missed those lil buggers completely but prybarring them revealed the problem without any debate.

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