Rotella - why?

Trackmouse said:

What the hell do we call this forum member?>>> ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Shrug. 

Trackmouse said:

What the hell do we call this forum member?>>> ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

"I dunno."

Interesting. 

Is there any issue with switching to it if I’ve only been using Mobil 1? 

octavious said:

Interesting. 

 

Is there any issue with switching to it if I’ve only been using Mobil 1? 

Nope.  Generally you can switch oils without any issue provided you're switching to something of appropriate weight and with a suitable additive pack, etc. for the engine it's going in. 

I always used it in my D90,  due to the high level of detergents.    They were known to be very sooty motors, internally,  due to the design of the intake manifold / lifter valley.

-Hans

Well it looks like I'm one pretty fart smeller for making the change.  I'm a gonna pat myself on the back and hope I don't throw something out doing it.

I put it in the Honda and I'll put it in the F150 when I get back from a 4 day blat in the Ozarks with a bunch of the Locost crowd.

Ran it in the Miata 100% to quiet down the ticking.

I've run Rotella in my motorcycles for over a decade.     $13 for a gallon or $50 for Suzuki dealership oil.  hmmm

Toyman01 said:

Trackmouse said:

What the hell do we call this forum member?>>> ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Shrug. 

 

Shruggy McShrugface

Come on guys it's not that hard to pronounce, just sound it out...

I have run T5/T6 in a number of bikes and cars, it always seems to do its' job nicely.  The 2.3T I pulled out of the rally car survived hours of abuse with more boost pressure than oil pressure and T5 appears to have kept most of the bearings happy anyway.

There’s no need for the rotella in newer ohc engines. The higher zddp is needed for older flat tappet cams because it’s a good ep additive that is needed on that type of film. 

There are other hdeo that have similar zddp. Basically look for CJ4 and not the CK4 fluids. The newer ck4 fluids are runninb similar zddp as that if modern gas engine oils. 

Ni there’s no problem with switching oils as long as the oil meets your engines required specs. 

I’m on the road this week but since this is kinda what I do for a living send me a message if you have questions. I’ll get them as quick as I can. 

In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :

Nice to meet you shrugs mcshruggington. 

edizzle89 said:

Toyman01 said:

Trackmouse said:

What the hell do we call this forum member?>>> ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Shrug. 

 

Shruggy McShrugface

Fuctif  Eyeno

In reply to Bob the REAL oil guy. :

Hasn't all the CJ4 cycled out of the system by now?? 

Just googled.  Apparently not. 

In reply to spitfirebill :

Ck4’s have become prevalent since the beginning of this years. It’ll be a while before the older stuff cycles out. Iirc it took close to 3 years for the CJ became the main oil in use. 

Bob the REAL oil guy. said:

In reply to spitfirebill :

Ck4’s have become prevalent since the beginning of this years. It’ll be a while before the older stuff cycles out. Iirc it took close to 3 years for the CJ became the main oil in use. 

I'm trying to remember which I was looking for, but I remember looking real hard for an older version of C? oil a while back when the gasoline oil with zinc was gone.  But, I'm thinking it may have been CI-4.   Its been sitting on my shelf waiting for the 1500 Spitfire to fire in anger.   

Oil for gas engines (and the newer diesel oils) still has ZDDP.  It just has less of it.  So it's not sufficient for aggressive flat tappet cams.  But a mild flat tappet setup (and most roller cam or overhead cam engines) have fairly low ZDDP requirements.  And for those that require lots of ZDDP, there are additives out there and racing oils with more as well.  

Bob the REAL oil guy. said:

There’s no need for the rotella in newer ohc engines. The higher zddp is needed for older flat tappet cams because it’s a good ep additive that is needed on that type of film. 

There are other hdeo that have similar zddp. Basically look for CJ4 and not the CK4 fluids. The newer ck4 fluids are runninb similar zddp as that if modern gas engine oils. 

Ni there’s no problem with switching oils as long as the oil meets your engines required specs. 

I’m on the road this week but since this is kinda what I do for a living send me a message if you have questions. I’ll get them as quick as I can. 

How does that relate to OHC engines with "cam on bucket" vs. rockers?  i.e. an older Nissan VQ that can't run the DLC buckets.

I found out a few days ago, 4 out of 5 people in my Honda CBR group also swear by Rotella T6. When that many people agree about something, it's hard to argue the point. Apparently this stuff will cure cancer if you drink it properly. (no, not really)

It's what I run in the ms6. Dollar for dollar it's pretty tough to beat

What is Dexos oil?  I saw several that were Dexos and I didn't know if that was good or bad.

In reply to carguy123 :

Decos is a requirement. Like Allison te-295. It basically requires at least semi synthetic in simple terms. 

ShinnyGroove said:

I got my Miata with 132,000 miles; compression was 160-170 psi in all cylinders.  10,000 miles and three oil changes later with T6, compression is 10-15 psi higher in all cylinders.  Over that time I turbocharged it and gave it plenty of “italian tuneups”, but the only thing I can attribute the improvement to is the oil.

Shell also makes a Rotella T6 "multi-vehicle oil in 5W30 that's rated both CK-4 and API-SN .  I know the dangers of believing advertising, but what they're really pushing with the CK-4 is stability in high temperatures and resistance to shearing of the viscosity modifying additives.

Rotella T6 products

Bob the REAL oil guy. said:

In reply to carguy123 :

Decos is a requirement. Like Allison te-295. It basically requires at least semi synthetic in simple terms. 

Gm is now requiring any dexos certified oil used during warranty period to be full synthetic. We thought our supplier was wrong and checked with gm. They will no longer warranty an engine unless it's full synthetic dexos certified.