If replacement panels are available then you really just have to focus on panel fit up and how to do a good plug weld.
If replacement panels are available then you really just have to focus on panel fit up and how to do a good plug weld.
I see mention of the "poke it with a screwdriver test" and true thats good for the areas you can see right now. However I agree that the level of bondo visible in the photos leads me to belive there are probably other spots where the repair hasnt failed (yet). So time for rust detection trick #2. Get a good strong magnet and a microfiber cloth. Put the magnet on the cloth (to prevent scratching the paint) and run it along the body. If the magnet wont stick, you've got more bondo and likely more repairs ahead.
What I see in your photos looks fixable and not too bad, I've dealt with a lot worse. But it also looks like only 1/2 the story.
Otherwise price seems fair for what is a rare car. Especially in the current market where anything that runs will bring a few grand.
Be realistic with yourself though. It will cost more than you think to fix, it will take longer than you think to fix. If you can come to terms with those facts and have the patience and income to deal with it then proceed and welcome to the hobby.
In reply to mblommel :
Ok got it. I think they are, I looked through the catalog and they looked to be available, though it was a bit hard to decipher which part is which and what's needed
In reply to JThw8 :
Got it, i've heard of the magnet test before as well. So it will show me basically where there is bondo? Do I run it on the whole body or just the rockers/fenders where I suspect rust.
From the photos, where would/should I start on repairs if I bought it.
That is a hard thing to come to terms with, as I want to drive. BUT I love the repair and mechanical side as well, and I love a good project
More photos of the car:
Mini battery, hood pins, helmet.
How does the current owner race it? Track, autox, rally, drag?
With two, he knows more than a little about these. Why is he selling it and not keeping it for parts?
In reply to John Welsh :
Not sure actually, I noticed the same. I know it was sorted for a while until it passed emissions, and I know it's got some mods done to it (covered in another comment). I'll ask
If it shows body rust, that's usually just the tip of the iceberg. My last Mazda3 had a little rust around the rear wheels. The underside of the car was a disaster. Every nut and bolt I took off was a fight. Gave up on several of them, and the alignment guy couldn't do anything with the rear alignment. There's also a thread here of me doing brakes on my newer 3 where I removed the front rotors with a 12lb sledge by breaking them apart, and that car was in better shape rust-wise than the first one.
Take a close look at the bottom side of the car. If it looks like I'm imagining, I'd pass and start on something more reasonable.
Is that rust behind the license plate frame? I would say that's another indicator.
Some of the best advice I've ever gotten is advice I didn't take, but here goes: Don't ever, ever, buy a rusty car. A plane ticket to anywhere is cheaper and quicker than fixing rust.
In reply to Evanuel9 :
It is a Healey 3000 and repairing the underbody would be exactly what I am doing.
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-https://i.imgur.com/MIJXwQc.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/MIJXwQc.jpgproject-cars/meet-patches-the-1965-austin-healey-3000/193205/page1/
Based on the pics of the car, I would actually slap a patch of fiberglass over the hole and spend the next while sorting the rest of the car. I don't see anything ( from where I sit) rust-wise that is going to keep you from driving the car. I do see a rather tired and used car that you may or may not want to keep after a while. Spend your time and $$$ on the mechanical and sneak up on the tinwork.
I'd even be tempted to pass on this car, despite being a sucker for rare vehicles. It's pretty well used (to put it mildly) and seems to be missing a bunch of parts from the interior, which are probably impossible to source.
Most of it is potentially repairable, but this car could be pretty close to a parts car, and attempting to find some of the missing parts is potentially a multi year effort with a bunch of luck thrown in.
I think you'd want to start with a better (or at least more complete) example.
Take whatever rust area you see and multiply it by about 3. I'm 5 years into a "not THAT rusty" FJ60 Landcruiser project. Make sure those new panels are actually available. Isuzus are kinda rare. Sometimes an online parts search shows things as being available, but when you order them they aren't. Looks like a cool car, but do your research.
In reply to BoxheadTim :
My saving grace, with the rarity, is that I do not care about having a complete car. If I were to buy it my first priority is mechanical issues (cam seal and cam position sensor leaks) and the rust. Then I'd dynamat the interior for some sound deadening, slap in some carpet in the back and a strut brace and use the rear seat area as a trunk extension. I'd fix the ac, toss in a new head unit and speakers, and put the rest towards performance mods. Despite the rarity, I'm not a purist. I love the potential of the car, rather than trying to restore it.
I probably will pass, but I feel the need to at least look at it. The only other car for sale that I can find, while completely rustless and very complete, is 8k which is too much for me right now. But like I said if it's too much I will pass on it. I just want to at least lay eyes and hands on it before I decide no
Don't let the giddiness of seeing it make you buy it. Be thorough in your inspection then base your decision on that inspection.
Buy a decent Honda. The reason I say that is you can still get to work and around in the Honda while you fix your POS dream car. Having a cool car in the driveway is cool but it sucks if it is your only transportation.
I have 7, arguably cool, cars and they have all been broken at once. That sucks. I really only have one good one right now and I am dying to take it to the 1/4 mile but I will not until my truck passes inspection. If I blow up my daily I am screwed.
In reply to jwagner (Forum Supporter) :
Well that sounds like absolute hell. Sledgehammering the rotors off? Jeez.
Ill definitely do a through inspection. If there's a lot of rot or Bondo, especially in difficult areas, I will let it go
In reply to Tyler H (Forum Supporter) :
I actually can't tell. Not a great picture. I asked a bit more about rust, waiting for a response.
I'll do a thorough inspection. If it's much worse than what's shown here, I'll pass
Evanuel9 said:In reply to jwagner (Forum Supporter) :
Well that sounds like absolute hell. Sledgehammering the rotors off? Jeez.
Ill definitely do a through inspection. If there's a lot of rot or Bondo, especially in difficult areas, I will let it go
I've had cars that sledge hammer the rotors off would be an IMPROVEMENT. I've literally had to cut rotors off cars. Rust sucks so bad.
In reply to mblommel :
Well that sounds really frustrating. Ill definitely try to check on the rust when I look at it.
How can I make sure they actually have the parts? Should I just call them?
In reply to NOHOME :
Wow, that's quite a bit of work.
It's definitely not undrivable, from what I can tell. In fact, up here, it'd be considered pretty good shape lol. It could be a decent beater that I just drive until I can fix the rust, though I'd hate to abuse it.
Would a fiberglass panel inhibit or at least not invite rust? Wouldn't it trap debris and moisture?
In reply to BoxheadTim :
The guy does have a much nicer shape, relatively rust free for a little more. It has the geo 1.6, which is less powerful, but he's selling it with a spare Rs engine. I'm tempted to buy both, switch over the nice body panels to the geo so I get that aggressive front end, swap in the Rs motor, and keep the impulse as a parts car. HOWEVER, that could be an even bigger project at which point it'd be like what's the point...
In reply to preach (dudeist priest) :
I will do my very best to let reality temper my emotional response. You guys have been really helpful in providing realistic expectations.
That was actually part of my though process. "Well it's so cheap I could just buy it, drop another 1.5k on a cheap beater accent/civic/whatever, and have a cheap, reliable daily while I fix the impulse." How GRM is two first cars :D?
The good news is, it wouldn't be my only transportation. I have the bus system in Chicago, and I'm actually like 5 minutes from school so if it wasn't working I wouldn't be SOL
In reply to bobzilla :
That sounds like a horror story. I definitely want to a void stuff like that. Not worth it for a first car, even a dream car
Asked about the race prep stuff, haven't gotten an answer yet.
I do know it's got some mods and some issues
Mods:
Issues:
Comes with:
Were I to buy it, my plan would be:
The guy also has, for sale, a Geo storm. This car was the sister car to the isuzu, but without the AWD and lotus suspensions. However, his has an AWD swap, 450cc/min injectors, upgraded coilovers, upgraded, Enkei 16x7 wheels, upgraded clutch, front-mount intercooler, and is running on an E Manage piggyback. It looks to have a lot less rust (have atached pictures), but has the storm 1.6 engine which has a lot less power. However, it's only $500 more than the impulse $2500, with all the same benefits and more, but only lacking the cool looks of the impulse. Might go for that instead.
rust repair is a slippery slope to lots of new metal being added
No climate controls????
No AC is inconvenient where you live but NO HEAT and no ability to clear condensation off the inside windshield makes the car just plain ole undrivable.
Get a through understanding of what's gone. Is there a heater core? Are there knobs? Are there heat ducts and vents? Is there working fan/blower?
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