The brake bleeder looks a bit crusty. I don't want to brake or strip with using only a 8mm wrench. Any ideas? Heat ok?
The brake bleeder looks a bit crusty. I don't want to brake or strip with using only a 8mm wrench. Any ideas? Heat ok?
8 mm socket. Lots of penetrating oil. Time for penetrating oil to work. Since those are drums they should be cheep if you bugger them. You may even consider the strategic application of heat.
lots of good penetrating oil....heat, repeat as needed.
Then break off bleeder and plan to drill/tap wheel cylinder or replace as needed anyway. I hate rusty bleeder screws.
Might take a steel brush to it, PB blaster, and finally probably some vice grips to get it off and spend the $15 on a new one. Dont bleed at the bottom one because you wont get the air out.
Steven
Put the dull end of a drill bit into the bleeder, this will keep the bleeder screw from deforming as you open it--AFTER you have wire brushed it clean, applied 'blaster over time, tap the area around the bleeder after applying the 'blaster, and always use a flare nut wrench.
This is what I do when faced with bleeding a system where parts are either very hard to get or $$$$. It has worked most of the time. If it's an unomtanium-type part, build up a dam of modeling clay around the bleeder to hold a pool of penentrant.
While you're down there, clean the rust off the hose, coupling fittings and shoot with self etching primer--it will help when you have to remove those fittings . My 2 cents.
Thanks all - I'm give that a try. I don't mind replacing if they are a reasonably common item - its on a Lada Niva so if I can get them free I could take them a parts shop to match.
Ah ha! I got them both free with no too much difficulty. A long 8mm socket helped. Next to bleed them and see if they hold brake fluid ok.
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