RX7

There is a RX7 for sale near me for 800, needs a starter, what should i look for? the body is in perfect condition, the interior is nice, is the starter a common problem or something more? good price?

What year? What engine? You're not giving us much information...

Its a common problem for them to be a giant PIA to start when old and a mechanic to claim a blown motor, a private seller to claim a bad starter, and a car dealer to proclaim the need of a "tune up" or maybe a "valve adjustment". The reality is there is a good chance a new battery or just drag starting the thing will get you a good deal on a cool car.
Dont try to jump it, take out the old battery and put a fresh one in. If that doesnt work, hook a tow strap to it, put it in gear, and drag it until it runs.

It's very common on the older models to have the apex seals let go. It will run rough. Unless you don't mind taking the time to pull the motor apart, it can be an expensive fix. DIY, and it's not too bad. I'd be very wary if you can't run it.

sorry i dont know why i didnt put in more information, its an 83 with a 12a i think, the ad says he has replaced the battery allready.

The engines get harder to start as they age due to slight loss of compression, tired ignition systems, old batteries, and a carb that probably desperately needs rebuilding. Try taking a freshly charged battery and jacks and stands. If the fresh battery doesnt do it, jack it up and bang on the starter. The starter is right next to the gas pedal. You can even run juice directly to the starter. If none of that works and the seller is very relaxed, nail down a price they will take and try the pull start method. It doesnt take much of a pull, just 10-30 seconds of the engine turning at 3k with the key in the on switch. You could pull start it with a tow strap and your Geo if you so desired. Just have someone pull you up to 10mph or so and slowly and fully let out the clutch in the 7 an have the tower adjust speed until the engine turns about 3k. Use first or second, whatever you prefer. Ease into the throttle until you are about half throttle and if the engine is good it will fire up pretty quickly. Be careful not to ram your tow vehicle.

BTW, if the body is straight and you can get it to run, before you buy it do a ghetto compression test. Pull the coil wires and pull a plug on one housing. You should get three distinct evenly spaced pulses. Repeat on the other housing and be sure you get the same thing. Its enough to make sure you dont have any drastic problems. If you can get it to run I think $800 is pretty good for one with a straight body and interior.

Thwup thwup thwup!

Actually, there's more S in there.

Shhhwup shhhwup shhhwup.

The mating call of a healthy rotary.

thank you very much MrJoshua for your detailed answer, however the geo insnt in pulling condition, it has a rad leak.

any more comments or personal rx7 testimonies would be nice.

Don't know much about the carbed 12As but I currently have a 2nd gen with a fuel injected 13B which likes to flood. I have gotten good at the de-flooding procedure though. The wankel is a funny, finicky thing but I like 'em. You never know about use cars like that one but it could be a real gem too.

New battery and plugs would be a big help.

Feedyurhed wrote: Don't know much about the carbed 12As but I currently have a 2nd gen with a fuel injected 13B which likes to flood. I have gotten good at the de-flooding procedure though. The wankel is a funny, finicky thing but I like 'em. You never know about use cars like that one but it could be a real gem too. New battery and plugs would be a big help.

13b will flood if you cold start them and then dont let them fully warm up before shutting them back off. i.e. quickly moving the car, short jaunts, etc.

fatallightning wrote:

Feedyurhed wrote: Don't know much about the carbed 12As but I currently have a 2nd gen with a fuel injected 13B which likes to flood. I have gotten good at the de-flooding procedure though. The wankel is a funny, finicky thing but I like 'em. You never know about use cars like that one but it could be a real gem too. New battery and plugs would be a big help.

13b will flood if you cold start them and then dont let them fully warm up before shutting them back off. i.e. quickly moving the car, short jaunts, etc.

Ya I know. It's not always convenient nor do I always have the time for a complete warm up though. Like I said I have gotten good at de-flooding and for the most part I keep it out of the way so I don't have to move it to get something else out. Dig those crazy rotaries.

Carbed 12a's will flood pretty easy. It could be that the owner fried the starter because of that. The three pops method of checking compression is a good idea, look for a big cloud of vapor while doing that, vapor = flooded. Also, check the plugs for signs of water. Rotaries do not tolerate overheating well at all and that will make them hard to start as well. If the PO ran it hot that could be why the starter is pooped.

I love rotaries as well, Nothing revs like a rotary!

My 12a has been nothing but reliable. 225k miles and counting. It's fun to drive and parts are relatively cheap (other than for the engine.) Check underneath the rear bins for rust. The only negative is the gas mileage.

Rotaries do love to rev...my 12A would hit the over rev horn really easily.

Rust. The engine. Those seem to be the major issues on these cars. Since 12A's are getting harder to find parts for that can be an issue with a rebuild.

Also, keep in mind that the steering on these cars is loose at best. That's why I sold mine and bought the Miata. I've found the Miata to be a "fixed" RX-7. More mpg, tight steering, same weight (or close). This is GRM so saying that is like saying pork is the only real bbq. Self-evident in other words.

Bought a Miata and kept the RX7 for autoxing. Funny thing though, I autox the Miata more than the RX7. Still it's a work in progress and I can't ever see letting it go.

A guy here just sold a nice perfectly running rust-free '85 for $400. I think that is the price range you need to be in if it doesn't run.

I don't think you're going to find anyone who is selling a sub-$1k vehicle receptive to the tinkering suggested. I'm as GRM as the next guy, and I would decline if someone asked to tow it around the yard or tinker under the hood. As a seller, his time is valuable and the price is next to nothing.

The car doesn't run, so pay accordingly. All of these are good suggestions for things to do with a buddy, with a six pack, after you've towed your prize home.

If you don't overspend, you should be able to break even, assuming the worst.

A few things to look for, does it have the rear disc brakes if so it is a GSL and should have a factory LSD.

The worst rust area s under the storage bins, pull them out to check this area properly, it takes a Philips screwdriver.

Do you need to smog in your area, as these cars inject oil into the fuel they can be difficult to pass smog, I can give you a few ideas to help this procedure.

For $800 it should be straight, fairly rust free, and a GSL.

As to the engine, first thing to do is pull the plugs and turn it over a few times, this will push any condensation/excess fuel out and help starting.

To regain some compression do a Seafoam treatment, be aware it will look like a forest fire, its actually cool, but warn the neighbors it is not a fire, seriously.

How long has it sat, there is a procedure if it has been non running for a while.

Best site for this car is RX7club.com, beware these cars are very addictive, 12a engines are very simple and reliable, boost is much more of an issue.

Change the fuel filter now and regularly.

S>GSL

I have an 83 GSL 12A that I fair-traded about $1000 for.

The starter power wire likes to back off (ask me how I know... ).

Rust sucks, but most of it is fixable.

GSL has the LSD rear with disc brakes, however it's usually heavier with more "standard" options.

Check out www.rotarycarclub.com

Oh, and buy it. You'll LOVE it!

For race only the S is lighter and without the sunroof more desirable but for a DD the GSL is much nicer in trim, accessories and with the LSD and 4 wheel discs, I own three now and have had about 12 FB RX7s, my S shell is the GRM challenger under construction, my GSL is my street car.

Based on the age of the car, you should assume that the engine is bad. If you feel that the rest of the car is worth the asking price, buy it. If you manage to get the engine running after the purchase, bonus!

I would like to have the money, time, and spousal permission to buy a '84/85 with a bad engine. Right now I can only dream of being grassroots.

Peter

Don't rule out the fuel pump/relay either if the car turns over but just wont start. Many a cheap RX7's have been had because they wouldn't run and drove away on a bypassed fuel pump relay.

thanks for all your comments, the guy wont email me back, and put no phone number on the ad. but now i have a line on a 85 gsl-se in van city. and teh journey begins again!

The SE is a nicer car. Fuel injected 13B with 4 wheel discs and a real diff. Also came with larger 14" alloy rims. They are nice fun cars. All of the race series are based on the non-SE with the 12A motor as there were many more of those made.

I saw 8 first gen RX7s this weekend at a NASA event. Preparation level ran from stock to full race cars. Come to think of it, I also saw about the same amount of 2nd gen cars and 4 3rd gens (including mine).