RX8s, when did the GEN 2s get soo cheap?

Ford 3.7l v6? No direct injection so easier to squirt maybe.

On a few trips back home I averaged 24.3 MPG and that was around 650mi one way.

singleslammer wrote: Ford 3.7l v6? No direct injection so easier to squirt maybe.

Making the LFX run and drive in the car is a piece of cake. Install V8R hard parts, drop in engine, apply power and ground to the right spots on the LFX engine harness and wire up a gas pedal, and thats it. Its making the gauges and radio and power window and things work so it drives like the engine came in there stock, thats the crux, and you're going to have the same problem with dropping in a carby v8 as you would with the DI LFX.

With all the dead or soon to be dead RX8s floating around, surely someone will put out an LSX to RX8 Harness, don't you think? I would rather have a nice 300 hp 30+ mpg engine but beggars can't be choosers.

singleslammer wrote: With all the dead or soon to be dead RX8s floating around, surely someone will put out an LSX to RX8 Harness, don't you think? I would rather have a nice 300 hp 30+ mpg engine but beggars can't be choosers.

Its not the wiring thats all that hard either. Its getting the CAN BUS protocol faked enough to make all the other car's modules happy to make them run. Honestly making a custom, drop in, gauge cluster is the easy answer there, but that still doesnt make the power door locks work.

In reply to Leafy:

That sucks that you can't get anything else to work without addressing that.

Who needs gauges? Or power door locks? If I had a 300 HP, 30 mpg car I'd stick a GPS in the dash and listen to mp3's through my phone.

Gauges. Pfff.

volvoclearinghouse wrote: Who needs gauges? Or power door locks? If I had a 300 HP, 30 mpg car I'd stick a GPS in the dash and listen to mp3's through my phone. Gauges. Pfff.

Then you can have that right now for like a total of 11k between buying a 3k rx8 and getting the V8R LFX swap kit and buying a new crate motor from GM and a brand new tranny.

That is a tasty dish. Also, going to an aftermarket radio should fix the radio issue. I can run Torque for gauges. Any idea of HVAC?

In reply to singleslammer:

Windows roll down if you give them +12V, don't they?

I would imagine that most stuff can be bypassed like that.

yup, window circuits could be rewired easily enough, as could radio and sunroof (if equipped). Door locks are another story, but someone with Arduino experience could have a standalone circuitboard and keyfob hacked fairly easily. That, or just use the locks manually and depower the switches if you wanted.

This thread is now starting to speaka my language...

I also wonder what this would do to the airbags? I kind of want those as this would probably have kids in the back some of the time.

http://www.ls1rx8.com/swap-kits--parts.html

???

good question. I don't have the answer to that...

That just seems* too good to be true. Pretty much turnkey mechanically swap package for $3500 delivered. $3k shell. $?k motor/t56???

I know there's a lot to think about electronically, but damn.

Harvey wrote: Just make sure it has good compression first off. Then make sure not to turn off the car before it warms up, because you will likely flood it. If you do flood it, don't try to clear it yourself, just have it taken to the dealer and let them clean it up. Add oil when it needs it and every so often take it to 9000rpm to keep the motor happy. Replace plugs and coils at scheduled intervals. If you do all that you can enjoy 18mpg no matter how conservatively you drive it.

no E36 M3? you really need to take it to the dealer if you flood it?

I have flooded mine. I have pulled the plugs, cranked it with the plugs out , put clean plugs in and it fires right up. If you are in a hurry put a tow strap on it and pull it in second gear about 50 yards, it will fire up with a cloud of smoke and run fine

http://www.rx8club.com/frankenstein-rx-8s-196/ls1-rx8-kit-251371/

There is some interest info regarding the wiring in here. Apparently (according to LS1RX8.com guy), there is minimal wiring and the battery light and CEL are on and the TCS doesn't work. Thats it. Sounds fine to me. Who needs traction control anyway...

singleslammer wrote: http://www.rx8club.com/frankenstein-rx-8s-196/ls1-rx8-kit-251371/ There is some interest info regarding the wiring in here. Apparently (according to LS1RX8.com guy), there is minimal wiring and the battery light and CEL are on and the TCS doesn't work. Thats it. Sounds fine to me. Who needs traction control anyway...

Well thats cool. Initial talk of the LFX kit was making it all seem like doom and gloom with CAN BUS but if someone has already done it, then cool. I think I'd rather have the LFX kit that works with the stock diff and not much less power than the typical F-body LS1 while being a bunch lighter in the engine and tranny department.

I thought that the LFX kit was on hold/cancelled? I am thinking that an ERod 5.3L and T56 should be fine with the stock diff.

singleslammer wrote: I thought that the LFX kit was on hold/cancelled? I am thinking that an ERod 5.3L and T56 should be fine with the stock diff.

Strength isnt the problem, its rear gear ratio.

Well that landed in my lap...

http://columbiamo.craigslist.org/cto/4681835323.html

This is like 10 minutes away. Although it is all the stuff I don't want: Sunroof, leather, beat up body and at least 1k too much

Cotton wrote:

Harvey wrote: Just make sure it has good compression first off. Then make sure not to turn off the car before it warms up, because you will likely flood it. If you do flood it, don't try to clear it yourself, just have it taken to the dealer and let them clean it up. Add oil when it needs it and every so often take it to 9000rpm to keep the motor happy. Replace plugs and coils at scheduled intervals. If you do all that you can enjoy 18mpg no matter how conservatively you drive it.

no E36 M3? you really need to take it to the dealer if you flood it?

No, all you have to do is hold the pedal to the floor to turn off the fuel pump and crank the car for a bit to clear it. My car got flooded when my family members kept trying to start it with a weak battery when I was deployed. Other than that, it never had an issue until the low compression showed up around 60k miles. Mazda replaced it with no questions asked.

I've got a parts car for sale cheap if somebody wants to experiment.