My jr mechanics license remains in jeopardy. The "parts car" that didnt run and needs a transmission does actually run beautifully. It shifts through all gears up and down smoothly while on jackstands. BUT. There is intermittent loud external sounding metallic clanking. Then when back on all fours it feels like something is binding resulting in more clanking and unhappy movement both forward and backward. Sooo is it the trans or an axle that is unhappy?
what saab is this? If is a classic 900.. you got an exploded differential
Auto or manual? Year/model? Sounds like a seriously shot motor or trans mount to me, or could be a bad diff.
1988 C900 Turbo Convert 5 speed manual. 130K miles.
turbo.. it probably has a very shot front transmount.. they were "hydraulic" and would eventually die and seperate. What kind of unhappy movement are you getting? When I got my turbo, the diff was so bad I could not drive the car more than 10 feet without it coming to a screaming halt and stalling the engine
The C900, with its longitudinal FWD setup, lends itself to all kinds of strange torsional engine movement normal FWD cars don't experience. I would replace ALL the engine/trans mounts with solid rubber or polyurethane and see what happens; worst case scenario, you swap them to your "good" 900.
In reply to mad_machine: Yepperoo that sounds EXACTLY like what the car is doing. Surely it needs the mounts too. So does the trans have to come out to get at the diff?
Going through that on my project Loki now. Here's some pics of the shot mount and the replacement I'm making with a $30 (for two) Energy suspension bushing instead of the $108 stock mount.
ls1fiero wrote: In reply to mad_machine: Yepperoo that sounds EXACTLY like what the car is doing. Surely it needs the mounts too. So does the trans have to come out to get at the diff?
sadly it does.. and so does the engine. The transmission case is also the oilpan for the engine.
That said.. except for all the hoses and wiring.. it is a straightforward job. Saabs are actually pretty logically built. Just remember to undo the CV boots from the trans before yanking.. I made that mistake already.
The Mechanic who rebuilt mine told me the biggest problem these transmissions have is rough shifting. Break off a few gears and they migrate back to the diff and bring the car to it's knees. As he suggested to me.. it runs on motoroill.. change it ever second or third time you change the engine's oil and it will keep everything nice and clean
Stellar information from stellar people. How I love this site!
when you go to pull the engine.. mind the driver's side engine mount. It is tricky to see.. but you only need to remove the one bolt that join the upper and lower parts.. it does not need to be removed from either the engine or the car.
it's what happens when engineers are allowed free reign when building a car
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