Seam Sealer: What Kind Should I Use?

My Toyota truck leaks like a sieve every time it rains. The early ones were known to be missing some seam sealer along the firewall. I'm going to tear down the front end and go over all the seams.

I'm not sure exactly what product to use, since I will be going right over the existing factory sealer. Also, I don't know if I need to do any special prep to the area before applying it.

Any suggestions?

Edit / Update:

I went to four places looking for seam sealer and came up empty. Is there any reason not to use GE Silicone II Clear Kitchen and Bath caulk? I don't need to paint over it.

Woody wrote: My Toyota truck leaks like a sieve every time it rains. The early ones were known to be missing some seam sealer along the firewall. I'm going to tear down the front end and go over all the seams.

I just wanted to see that in print again... chuckle.

Good thing Toyota has customers to finish the job of building their trucks.

How about "Seam Sealer"? I bought some at O'Reilley's when I welded in floor board patches. I think it was a 3M product. I could look at it if you want. It's in my shop fridge. It was expensive, though, like $20/calking gun tube.

silipreen or something like that. i think its a 3M product. i have used it. works wonders

Here's an action shot:

My wife's Oldsmobile Achieva had the seam sealer under the cowl go bad, and it looked like way too much work to get to the spot. So I just poured Gorilla Glue down the cowl vents. It worked.

MIG welder?

i use liquid nails heavy duty as seam sealer. 6 years in the trunk of my belair and it still looks like i did it yesterday. plus at $2.39 or so a tube it is CHEAP.

Any reason that you used Liquid Nails, or did you just have it on the shelf?

i also used constructive adhesive because of availability and cost.

I have the same problem that with my honda civic and I'm just too lazy to fix it. The pass side gets wet and noone sits there, so m3h.

You might check out 3M strip caulk. Easy to use in awkward places.

Woody wrote: Any reason that you used Liquid Nails, or did you just have it on the shelf?

it was recommended by a restoration shop as being a more durable alternative to the original stuff that eventually chunks off, yet can still be applied to look correct. i could care less about looking factory, but the durable part and the fact that i buy it by the case for work and know how strong it is when i am trying to rip apart 30 year construction adhesive and the wood around the glue gives first...