So, I'm considering relocating my battery to improve weight distribution and I got to thinking, why not just run a lightweight battery in the stock location? If it was small enough, I could probably still route my intercooler pipe through there when I plumb my front mount. Don't need to mess with a long, heavy, cable. Plus it's tons easier. Just buy an expensive battery. What's the local opinion on lightweight batteries like Braille? Do they hold up okay?
I think I have heard people use lawn mower batteries.
I knew a guy that used a battery from an old Gold Wing.
I used a mower battery in a 3 cyl. Metro, and it didn't do all that well. If the motor was warm, no problem. In the mornings, it wouldn't always start it. It had 11-1 compression, but it was also only 3 cylinders, and a pretty easy starter.
I think the rotaries need lots of cranking amps and are battery hogs if left unattended, which is why they had such big batteries in the first place. You'll need a sturdy custom enclosure for a smaller battery like a Braille or Odyssey since the factory tie-downs won't reach low enough. I know Oddy make their own, not sure about Braille. Also, if you upgrade to an FMIC, you will most likely need to relocate the battery anyways since the piping goes through the stock battery box location.
EDIT: Reread your post and saw the part about the FMIC. If I get the FMIC-equipped turbo RX-7 I'm looking at this weekend, I can give you an idea of how much space is left over in the stock battery box location.
I've put Deka ETX20L's (~15lbs) in my 2003 Jetta VR6 for a few years now. Each of them has died within the year, usually in the winter. I just (literally, today) got the marine version of this battery and am going to give it a try, but will probably just swap it in and out for weekends that I'm at the track.
robert
Was very happy with the pc680 mjt until it died on me this last winter. They apparently don't like cold weather (it must have rebelled against the move from Hawaii to Virginia). I bought a cheap replacement for the MG in the same size for half price. I hope it lasts through this winter.
I had an XS power battery in my DD '06 Miata and it worked brilliantly. Shop around and you can get them cheap too.
Fighters Garage used to carry a PC680 kit for FCs, but I only see one for FDs now. FWIW, I ran a Deka ETX14 in my N/A FC for a while and had no issues at all. To be fair though, I never had flooding issues and never had to start it in weather below 45°-50° or so. I also had it mounted in the passenger side cargo box with a manual-trip breaker and kept the breaker open when the car wasn't going to move for a while.
Personally I wouldn't pay the money for a Braille...you're paying for the image IMHO. Deka batteries are by all accounts essentially the same, and you can pick up an ETX14 on eBay for under $75 shipped. IIRC the stock battery hold-down bracket fit just right over an ETX14 laid flat.
Brailles are DEKA batteries with stickers. Also, check the automotive section of Walmart - the "power sports" batteries for skidoos, motorbikes etc range in price from $35 to $60 - there shoudl be one with enough cranking amps to work for your application.
I have an Odyssey 925 (I think that is the number) in my 318ti. Weighs 15 pounds and this is the second car it has been in. 8 years powering a daily driver without a single issue
mad_machine wrote: I have an Odyssey 925 (I think that is the number) in my 318ti. Weighs 15 pounds and this is the second car it has been in. 8 years powering a daily driver without a single issue
Where do you live? I ask because it seems like a cold winter kills these things. I may bring mine inside for the winter.
New Jersey... where it often hovers around the freezing mark in the winter with at least 2 weeks of down below freezing with combined with a LOT of snow (at least this winter we had the snow)
I have a Braille in my Supercoupe and it has worked very well. Of course, it's relatively low displacement (4.3 liters) and low compression (8.85), and there's no stereo, so there's not much draw on it when sitting. So it doesn't have to work too hard in that car.
Weird man. Maybe the 680 was just too small. I'm in NoVA- had the battery in Hawaii for 3 years no problems, one winter here, and it's dead. Replaced it with an off-brand agm battery which fits in the same metal jacket.
have a hawker genesis(~11lbs) dd'ing for 4+ years. when temperature is below id say 28degrees the car needs to be driving every day or it wont have enough to turn car over. a simple 15minute charge works. also when the temperature is very low, say around 0 my battery would rarely turn car first try. i would wait and try again about 5 seconds later and it would turn over. in the summer i can go 4+ days and my car will start. not a bad investment; spent 70dollars back in 06 iirc.
If weight reduction and smaller space is the objective.
A lithium battery is what's needed.
30 - 50 lbs of boat anchor lead verses 3 lbs of lithium.
In cold weather, just un-snap it from the battery leads and take it indoors !
Smaller lead batteries are still lead.
Cost is relative; If your ride is worth it, then get one.
I make them by the way so, u can ask me Q's.
Teh E36 M3 wrote: Weird man. Maybe the 680 was just too small. I'm in NoVA- had the battery in Hawaii for 3 years no problems, one winter here, and it's dead. Replaced it with an off-brand agm battery which fits in the same metal jacket.
it's possible the 680 is too small. I know the 925 in my car does not even slow down it's cranking in cold weather.
falconev wrote: I make them by the way so, u can ask me Q's.
I've seen these for motorcycles, and since my car motor is practically a bike motor, I've been tempted to buy one for the bike, and try it in the car. I can't drive both at the same time.
http://www.turntechbattery.com/TurnTech%20Battery/Welcome.html
http://www.ebattonline.com/index.html
So is there a way we can make one with parts from the local surplus?
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