I thought about putting this in the new truck forum here but it's not really truck specific.
I think Mitch Allread's '49 Ford may be my favorite Hot Rod of all time. And notice I didn't say 'Rat' because anybody who's looked at it up close knows that there's nothing ratty about it. But I want those wheels. Just simple steels painted a deep chocolate brown.
So I found these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071S91HK2/?coliid=I1PQA7YBGE7RK7&colid=210NPXY9ZIYSW&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
But I'm not a painter in that I don't have a booth or a high dollar gun. The extent of my painting experience is sadly spray cans. I could probably do a decent enough job with cans but I'm pretty sure it won't stick. What's the hive's advice?
gratuitous video links - this thing is even featured in Forza
https://youtu.be/iJVmRDnZvfA
https://youtu.be/JBcEol4LyKk
i thought they'd look good here. I always hated Ford's chrome wheels:
Pay have them blasted so you have a good surface. A portable work stand/vise and junk front strut/hub will let you hold the wheel flat and spin it. Now you can hold the paint spray can and spin the wheel for an even coat. I have had good success using this process.
porschenut said:
Pay have them blasted so you have a good surface. A portable work stand/vise and junk front strut/hub will let you hold the wheel flat and spin it. Now you can hold the paint spray can and spin the wheel for an even coat. I have had good success using this process.
Never thought of that. I have a HF blaster and have had good luck using ...um it's like coal dust... can't remember what it's called. Tractor Supply sells it. Regular blasting media always clogged it. Makes a huge mess though. Why not just mount em up one at a time on the truck to spray them? Nothing in the wheel well that I'm worried about getting overspray on - there's a new set of Bilsteins but I could mask that off
In reply to A 401 CJ :
So you want to buy new Amazon wheels and paint them?
If new then just clean, buff, scuff and spray. If you're not confident in your own spray ability then drop off at Maaco or similar for spray (after you prep them yourself.)
Sand with 320 until all the shine is gone. Use red scotchbrite pad and degreaser to get thenwheel reall matte looking. Wash with dawn and scotchbrite red. Put on stand, wipe with lacquer thinner and a paper towel until it squeaks. Shoot rattle can brown, rattle can clear. Pay special attention during all steps to edges. You'll want to do the entire wheel to prevent other color showing from odd agnles. Let cure for a few days, mount tires.
In reply to John Welsh :
Yes. I only need 4. The inners are already steel but looking at them they'd be hard to get to a surface ready for paint - 23 years of road grit. Anything against Amazon wheels? Is there a better deal?
Dupli-color sells a wheel paint in a spray can. Not sure if they have the color you want, and it's a 1-part urethane, but it gets the job done.
I just sprayed my high-end forged aluminum off-road wheels with a rattle can of rust-oleum metallic antique bronze and they've held up great for almost a year. The downside is I can't just hose them down with brake cleaner to get brake dust or greasy fingerprints off, and it's not as durable as a 2-part with a hardener, but I'm happy
The base model fleet trucks had steelies all around. It shouldn't be to hard to find a set. Especially if you hate your alloys enough to sell/trade them.
If there is a paint supply store nearby, ask if they can put automotive grade paint in spray bombs. Then you can have them put any color on the planet inside.
The wheels on the F-350 shown above are polished aluminum with clear coat on them. If you're going to paint them DO NOT use lacquer thinner on them as part of the prep process, use wax & grease remover.
Do not paint the wheels on the uncovered truck, remove and paint far from anything you wouldn't want over spray on or cover the vehicle with visqueen paint sheeting taped off to prevent over spray on the truck. The wheels will look better if painted without the lug nuts in the way.
In reply to NOT A TA :
Good advice but I don't plan to paint the alloy ones. Although I'm sure they could be made to look good, I just think the steelies are more to my liking.
And I really wish I could do a full float conversion and use the drive plates like the builder did on the '49. That seems like it'd be a lot of cash outlay though.
New or used wheels, I would take them to my local powdercoater - they blast them then coat and bake them, they come out looking terrific and powdercoat is generally pretty hard wearing stuff.
In reply to A 401 CJ :
Some auto parts stores have a paint dept. inside, and you can get a kit for a spray bottle charge with aerosol. Used to be a cheap option, and can then use auto paint of choice.
I though you rear axle is full float. Not sure. Post a picture for me of what kinda drive plate your thinking of.
Back when I first needed to take my 48 COE off the road to rebuild, I wanted to do an open fender 48-51... everyone told me how ridiculous it would look on a truck that "new" (cause they'd never seen one)
Never found the time/money to prove them wrong. Most of them now love 'em, and of course, don't remember saying that!!!
Was gonna use a Dakota 5 lug frame, but now it will be a lowered 88 ford superduty (2 ton, ten lug 16" wheels, straight axle)
anyway...
In reply to MiniDave :
Baked on powdercoat is the best. Black is still cheapest, I think, but for a bit more, they have tons of color these days.
All a lot more than rattle can, but way tough stuff!!!
03Panther said:
In reply to A 401 CJ :
Some auto parts stores have a paint dept. inside, and you can get a kit for a spray bottle charge with aerosol. Used to be a cheap option, and can then use auto paint of choice.
I though you rear axle is full float. Not sure. Post a picture for me of what kinda drive plate your thinking of.
Back when I first needed to take my 48 COE off the road to rebuild, I wanted to do an open fender 48-51... everyone told me how ridiculous it would look on a truck that "new" (cause they'd never seen one)
Never found the time/money to prove them wrong. Most of them now love 'em, and of course, don't remember saying that!!!
Was gonna use a Dakota 5 lug frame, but now it will be a lowered 88 ford superduty (2 ton, ten lug 16" wheels, straight axle)
anyway...
According to a quick Google search you're right. Dana 80 in that year is full float. But in the video, the builder who started with a '97 I think, said his Dana 80 was semi float and that he'd converted it to full float when he narrowed it and had custom axles made. At least I think that's what he said. I'm confused now 
I don't truly know the difference; but woulda thought all Dana 80's would be.
not sure on the Sterling rears ford used.
know a mates 2500 Chevy had a semi and he replaced it (at 425K miles) with a full float from a one ton SRW.
A 401 CJ said:
Appleseed said:
If there is a paint supply store nearby, ask if they can put automotive grade paint in spray bombs. Then you can have them put any color on the planet inside.
They do that?
Yup. I've done it multiple times back when I was in the Kustom world. When you have a 49 Chrysler with 60-year-faded patina and you want to touch up something, or paint the wheels to match with some dog dishes, there is no way a brand new mix of the original color code will match. You can take a part to the paint store, like maybe a gas filler cover, or heck... even a fender, and they'll put it in their magic paint matching thing and spit out a formula to make it. It gets put in a rattle can and pressurized with a propellant, and you're good to go. Not much different than how Home Depot does it with a can of latex.
Last time I did it I had a 73 Impala Station wagon that I added some later F-body power mirrors to. Knowing that the original color had 40 years of fade on it, I took the gas cap cover in and had them match it.
In reply to A 401 CJ :
Ah Ha! I never seen 'em, but got it figured. Pretty simple, but as ya say, looks expensive! Way cool.
wspohn
SuperDork
10/23/22 12:12 p.m.
Beware of using any sort of solvent to degrease the wheels before stripping - it can lurk in the crevices and come out after you paint them, causing streaks and paint bubbling. Better to do the suggested media blasting stripping method. Or just take them in to a wheel refinisher and have them strip and repaint them,
