Sheet metal intake - build or buy

I'm doing a motor swap project (GRM build log) and need to solve an intake manifold clearance issue with the brake master cylinder.

Running a sheet metal intake is my current plan but I'm undecided on whether to build or buy. Normally I'd buy it as intakes are complicated but I'm going to have to cut up whichever I go with in order to face the TB the correct way for a rear wheel drive application.

Ebay intakes tend to run around the 200ish mark once shipping is factored in and eliminating the super shady vendors.

There's also a head flange on ebay for $50, add a TB flange for $60, and that's looking more appealing right now. I won't be welding this up myself either, so factor that in too please.

TL;DR Should I cut up a purchased intake or build from scratch for my engine swap?

It all boils down to your comfort level with fabrication. The fact that you are considering buying flanges instead of making your own gives me the initial impression that the whole project might be a bit much, but a glance at your awesome build thread says you are a jump in with both feet kinda guy.

Is it an option to cut the log off the OE manifold and either flip it around and reweld or weld a sheet metal box on?

Looking at the build threads only pic of the stock intake installed, could you just bandsaw the plenum off, flip it around, do some port matching and weld it back on?

Alternatively, would deleting the booster give you enough space? A 4 banger E30 is plenty light enough to run manual brakes.

From your other thread I see a surge tank. Did you fab that? If so, I'd say you've got a good enough foundation for the intake manifold. Looking around, it seems that half of the 4G63 manifolds have injector bungs and half do not. Was there a switchover where they had the bungs in the head at some point? The manifold is a lot easier if the injectors are in the head, but doable regardless.

+1 for removing the booster for more room. As a bonus, they can behave goofy on boosted cars, so another reason to ditch.

It looks like if you come out and go down, you may have more room, so keep that in mind as an option.

I really wanted to run the stock intake but there's only 6-7 inches of clearance between the head and brake master. Deleting the booster helps but it's not enough.

The injector bungs are in the head, and my power goals are modest at 250whp, so the manifold should be a really simple design. Clear the brakes, attach to the head, and hold the throttle body. Add in a plate to tap for vacuum ports and I think that's it. Buying flanges is just a time vs money equation, I could make them but it's just easier to buy them instead of burning hours cutting and grinding.

Are you thinking IR? One design uses 'U' shaped runners that cross over the top of the head. That allows you to hook them up to tubular plenum with single TB, or go with IR TB as you wish. The extra runner length also enables some resonant tuning if that's what you are into.

The 93-97 Escort 1.9L motors used a similar setup, although the runners were kind of short:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/13867611@N04/1517807584/

Looks like you can buy pretty nice custom intakes off Ebay for $171-$215+. For that price I would buy.

Yeah I want to go individual runners but I'm think extremely short runners. I want to mimic this design as much as possible. I might have to taper off the plenum at cyl 4 to clear the brake master but could compensate the volume up front where there's a ton of space.

Tapers for $179 shipped?

Well that is certainly the easy button.

Yeah, I think I'll buy one tonight. I'm not sure the curved one will work as it will point the TB at the radiator but I'll get one and cut it apart to fit my car.

Thanks for helping me talk this through, much appreciated.

I'd just delete the power booster.....

Can't, the brake master is still in the way. If I change the brakes to fit the intake, I'd have to go with a wilwood setup and mount the pedals inboard of the firewall. It's more cost effective to get an intake than to alter the brakes.

Here's the clearance between the head and the master.

Ahh, better picture of the problem. I was just getting at that without the booster, would the master be far enough back as to be out of the way?

Can you tilt the engine a bit?

The engine is going to be super close to the hood as it is and the pan is 1/8" from the rack. I don't think I can tilt it.

The master extends an inch or two past the front of the resevoir, so even if I delete I think I'm still hosed. The devil is surely in the details of engine swaps but that's half the fun.

Let me know if you want any measurements.

In reply to ross2004:

Speaking of which, I think I need one of those....

http://www.massivebrakes.com/brake-systems.php?p=brake-booster-delete

Yeah, there are some super elegant solutions out there for E30 brakes but an intake is still the most cost effective one for my setup.

That's a slick master setup though. I'm assuming it's a V8 swapped car?

Just make the manifold. If you can make a coolant tank that holds water you can make an intake manifold. Do it right, get the right runner lengths (yay math), taper the plenum (yay more math), put velocity stacks that are extended out into the plenum (yay fluid dynamics).

Wait wait wait wait wait wait...

HOW THE HELL DID I MISS THIS BUILD?!! I know I haven't posted much lately, but wow, cool stuff.

I bought a manifold. I really want to get it on the road this summer, so not having to fab a manifold will speed up the time table.

Didnt want the majesty one that at least had a decently designed plenum?

It had the wrong throttle body flange and would have made the cold side piping harder to fabricate.