I have a line on a Shelby Dakota which I hope to pick up for just over $1000. It needs work, but it has some original parts I need to finish my Shelby Dak #233. The question I have is: Can I "sell" myself some of the original Shelby parts (wheels, air cleaner, etc.) and put that money back into the Challenge budget?
you should be able to reduce the purchase price of the truck by the FMV of the parts you remove.
right?
What the number on the parts truck?
This could get interesting with two Shelby Dak's at the Challenge.
To answer your question, yes, rule #15 covers it: $2011 Challenge Rules
Mine was a parts truck for the previous owner. Part of the deal was the broken parts from the truck getting restored go with the parts truck. So I have some broken bits to work with too.
If you decide to pass on building your parts truck up keep me in mind. I know somebody that might be interested in it if it's not too far gone.
In the past the powers that be have said no to selling parts to yourself.
In reply to Rob_Mopar:
I will find the number tomorrow. From the pics it looks restorable. The tailgate is probably too rusted to be saved. but Gen I Dak tailgates are easy to find. This truck is red. My #233 is white. I don't think I can "sell" parts to myself.
MrJoshua wrote: In the past the powers that be have said no to selling parts to yourself.
True.
What you do is trade parts to yourself, for parts of similar FMV that you already own.
right, IIRC, the total addition to the budget if the actual cost of a part cannot be determined (i.e. you already own the parts) is FMV for the parts.
Its only the parts that are on the car at the time of the competition that go toward the bottom line. If you buy 10,000 cars to scavenge parts off, you dont carry the cost of all those cars, just the Fair Market Value of the parts you take off and add to the race car. If you remove a FMV $25 carb from your race car, and add a FMV $75 carb from your parts car, you only add a net of $50 to the total budget. I believe FMV can be established using Ebay and C-list adds etc.
NOTE: Ive never competed in a challenge, so my wisdom may be skewed...
figure out the parts you want to "buy" from yourself... have the original sales guy sell those separately and then take the difference on the truck itself... make separate receipts for the parts and for the truck itself...
AngryCorvair wrote:MrJoshua wrote: In the past the powers that be have said no to selling parts to yourself.True. What you do is *trade* parts to yourself, for parts of similar FMV *that you already own*.
Problem is that I would set aside the "new" Shelby's factory wheels and replace them with Diamonds. I don't want to sell the original wheels to someone else.
donalson wrote: figure out the parts you want to "buy" from yourself... have the original sales guy sell those separately and then take the difference on the truck itself... make separate receipts for the parts and for the truck itself...
I think theres a stipulation against that...parts must be available to the public for their sale price to count. If you were able to get away with doing it the way you mention above, whats to stop someone from "buying" their blown and juiced 5 liter fox body for "$1500.00" from their dad just to put a trophy on the shelf and get a spread on the car in a magazine? If all you have to carry is the FMV of the parts on the car, why go thru all the hassle. If you buy the parts truck for $7k, it doesnt matter. As long as all youre using is the differential and the cams or whatever, all you have to claim is the FMV of those parts.
Moparman wrote: In reply to Rob_Mopar: I will find the number tomorrow. From the pics it looks restorable. The tailgate is probably too rusted to be saved. but Gen I Dak tailgates are easy to find. This truck is red. My #233 is white. I don't think I can "sell" parts to myself.
I probably have a decent tailgate here I can do something challenge friendly on. I'm using one from one of my parts trucks. Yep, parts trucks to put a former parts truck back together...
Check with Per on the "selling" parts portion. You aren't trying to sneak in a ringer. Just trying to give purpose to a truck that otherwise would be left for dead.
I'll check with my friend that runs Shelby-Dodge.com. She's the one I got my Dak from. She's been keeping an eye on the Shelby Dak parts. She might have some old ebay & Craigslist adds that would help with the FMV for the parts coming off yours.
Thx. The Dak will be far from a ringer. Without nitrous I coul probably get it into the high 15s, but that is it. As for auto-x, it is a truck! I just don't want to see this truck abused any more than it has been. There was one in my development (white) that was being used as a work truck. Guy wanted $1500 and it was beat and dented. He and his truck disappeared soon after.
I have a few more things in store for mine, but I'm not going to show my cards yet. 
It was a white one, but not much of the white was left.
Several years ago there was a beat-up white one running around here. The guy drove like a mad man and it was burning oil pretty bad. Don't know whatever happened to that one. It was missing the light bar but had the air dam. I think it had rough aftermarket wheels on it. Maybe rusty Cragars.
OK here is the scoop on the Shelby. It is truck # 1238. It has 143,000 miles on it and runs surprisingly well. No smoke whatsoever. Trans shifts fine, but indicator needle does not line up with the letters. Makes me think the trans was out for a rebuild or replacement at one time. There is a trans cooler attached to the radiator and it looks oem or at least old and professionally installed. My #233 does not have a trans cooler so I don't know how original #1238's cooler is. There is no rot on the floor, frame or sheetmetal. There is a half-dollar sized rust spot on the dirvers door, but it is not rotted through and can be repaired.The tailgate has rot and needs to be replaced. The interior is perfect except for two cracks on the dashboard. All gauges function. It will need shocks (would need for challenge anyway), tires (challenge) and paint. I figure I can buy the truck, do all repairs, equip with mew shocks, tires and paint for about $1750. That only leaves $261 to make it move faster. I also could not afford to replace graphics within the challenge budget. Not sure what to do. My garage is alread full with truck #233, my 84 Charger 2.2, 85 FB RX7 and my 1999 Neon FSP car.
Edit: Foglights are missing
Moparman wrote: OK here is the scoop on the Shelby. It is truck # 1238. It has 143,000 miles on it and runs surprisingly well. No smoke whatsoever. Trans shifts fine, but indicator needle does not line up with the letters. Makes me think the trans was out for a rebuild or replacement at one time. There is a trans cooler attached to the radiator and it looks oem or at least old and professionally installed. My #233 does not have a trans cooler so I don't know how original #1238's cooler is. There is no rot on the floor, frame or sheetmetal. There is a half-dollar sized rust spot on the dirvers door, but it is not rotted through and can be repaired.The tailgate has rot and needs to be replaced. The interior is perfect except for two cracks on the dashboard. All gauges function. It will need shocks (would need for challenge anyway), tires (challenge) and paint. I figure I can buy the truck, do all repairs, equip with mew shocks, tires and paint for about $1750. That only leaves $261 to make it move faster. I also could not afford to replace graphics within the challenge budget. Not sure what to do. My garage is alread full with truck #233, my 84 Charger 2.2, 85 FB RX7 and my 1999 Neon FSP car. Edit: Foglights are missing
Needle probably needs to be reset. Take the column covers off and locate the "string" and adjust the string to get it closer to reality. Or just snip that POS off and live with the needle at "1", like I did. 
I bet if you shop around on the supplies, you could do the basic flat black to hide the imperfections for less then what you are thinking of it costing you.
You could fill the cracks in the dash with some Fusor or expandable foam and either "glass" the dash or cover it in something else for cheap too.
Wheels and tires...at least you already have 5 lug, not 6 like me. Want to sell me some axles cheap??? 
For the extra cash, nitrous is stupid cheap. 
Brian
can't find a kit which will fit into the budget I would have left. DK what to use with the factory TBI.
Single nozzle.
Run it "dry", aka- no fuel. Get/find one of the pressure increaser deals for the FPR from a Mustang kit. Find someone selling a bottle, ask them about some noids, if they have any to sell or know of someone selling. Also ask if they have an extra feed line, fittings, and jets.
Bam. Nitrous kit in hand. As long as the bottle hasn't been hilljacked with a torch, it will be OK.
How much of a shot can I run dry? How much can I run on a 143,000 mile 318? I have to get an adapter plate too. Probably have to make one.
As much as it will take. Probably no more then 100 shot.
No adapter plate needed. Just plumb the nozzle into the air cleaner housing.
100? I think that would blowup that engine, especially if it is running with no additional fuel. Sounds simple enough though. Mount the tank in the bed I would guess.
No, you get the extra fuel from bumping the fuel pressure.
Ideally, I would want to retard the timing a few degrees, but given the archaic nature of Mopar PCM's......
No you've lost me. Can I bump fuel pressure on that truck? Will those injectors handle it? Remember, that is a very crude two injector TBI setup.
I don't think the 318 2bbl TBI will be able to flow enough extra fuel for the nitrous shot. You might be able to get away with one Fogger nozzle going to the air cleaner housing.
The Fogger nozzle is designed to go in the runner spraying both nitrous and fuel. Or round up 8 Fogger nozzles then drill and tap the manifold runners near the heads. Might be able to find the bits used at the Spring swap meet at Maple Grove or Englishtown.
For less pain and suffering if the original 318 melted down, you might be able to swap on a used intake and carb. Would need a fuel pressure regulator to bring the TBI pressure down to a carb friendly 5-6 PSI. But used ones of those are out there too.
Or you can tap off the return and run a fuel solenoid into the single nozzle.
I thought it was like my Dakota with individual injectors.
In reply to Ranger50:
MPI didn't come around until the Magnum motors in '92. It was a big leap at that time.
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