Saw this on craigslist and I first liked the color and condition. Talked to the owner and it all checks out. Just need to sign up for carfax and run a report.
What should I double check?
http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/5160328715.html
Saw this on craigslist and I first liked the color and condition. Talked to the owner and it all checks out. Just need to sign up for carfax and run a report.
What should I double check?
http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/5160328715.html
Rust, leaks, what services have been done, and CELs.
That's about it. By 2003 they had the VVT issues sorted out and it's still just a Miata.
Oh, one more thing. Check for "bouncing headlights." The mounting solution for these headlights was pretty E36 M3ty in my opinion, there's a metal ball in a plastic socket that wears/breaks and gives you a bouncing headlight. 01-05 headlights aren't cheap, either.
That looks pretty nice and seems like a fair price. I'd take a close look at the rockers and rear wheel wells for rust, and look for any signs of repaint on the body but that's about it.
Swank Force One wrote: Rust, leaks, what services have been done, and CELs. That's about it. By 2003 they had the VVT issues sorted out and it's still just a Miata. Oh, one more thing. Check for "bouncing headlights." The mounting solution for these headlights was pretty E36 M3ty in my opinion, there's a metal ball in a plastic socket that wears/breaks and gives you a bouncing headlight. 01-05 headlights aren't cheap, either.
Thanks. Will do. What's a CEL?
Are miatas fairly inexpensive to maintain? I do realize it's a sports car, but I'm hoping not to be in the world of $2k repairs every few months. I only drive 5-7k miles a year, so wont be beating the piss outta it.
CEL = Check Engine Light
Gotcha, it was up for inspections a few months ago and passed. So hopefully no CELs
Coldsnap wrote: Are miatas fairly inexpensive to maintain? I do realize it's a sports car, but I'm hoping not to be in the world of $2k repairs every few months. I only drive 5-7k miles a year, so wont be beating the piss outta it.
Miatas are very cheap to maintain.
A $2k repair on a Miata is.... a new motor and transmission.
Coldsnap wrote: Are miatas fairly inexpensive to maintain? I do realize it's a sports car, but I'm hoping not to be in the world of $2k repairs every few months. I only drive 5-7k miles a year, so wont be beating the piss outta it.
Yes, inexpensive to maintain. Sure, it is a Sports Car but it is not a marque Sports Car (think Porsche) and at its very heart it is a reliable Japanese compact that happens to have a spirited chassis.
You will find that maintain it cost no more than a typical Mazda, Camry or Accord. Arguably, it may be even less since the breadth and depth of DIY info out there on the Miata will aid you in completing most repairs yourself. The popularity of the Miata also leads to significant aftermarket and/or used solutions that may actually be cheaper that many "non sports cars". You don't "need" to change anything on the car but the options of what you "can" change is endless (ie: suspension, induction, apearence, etc)
Awesome, I'm going to look at it now. Hopefully it checks out and I drive it home.
Coldsnap wrote: Are miatas fairly inexpensive to maintain? I do realize it's a sports car, but I'm hoping not to be in the world of $2k repairs every few months. I only drive 5-7k miles a year, so wont be beating the piss outta it.
There is no cheaper true sports car to maintain. Generally, they don't break. When they do, parts are cheap and easy to get.
On you pre-purchase inspection, check the body drains in front of the rear wheels and behind the front wheels (underneath where the rocker panel meets the chassis) . If these get clogged, the car will rust from the inside out.
Check to make sure the top is in good shape. It's not fun or cheap to replace. It should go up and down smoothly, no holes, no loose seams, and latching should be relatively easy.
Other than that, just check it like you would anything else. It should feel very connected and "tight" for lack of a better word. If it drives wonky, walk away.
Coldsnap wrote: Are miatas fairly inexpensive to maintain? I do realize it's a sports car, but I'm hoping not to be in the world of $2k repairs every few months. I only drive 5-7k miles a year, so wont be beating the piss outta it.
I don't think you can find an enthusiast car that's cheaper or easier to maintain than a Miata. I've owned a '95 and a '91, so no experience with the NB ('99-'05), but they seem to be as reliable as the NA ('90-'97). Forget about $2K every few months...you probably won't spend $2K on repairs in the first five years you own it. Parts are cheap and plentiful and the aftermarket is huge, and Miatas are easy to work on, unless they're rusty, which a North Carolina car shouldn't be.
Miatas are about as bomb proof of a vehicle as you can buy. No accounting for random failure, but its rare to see engine gearbox or rear end problems with a car that is not abused.
I will second a close look at the sills. Even in a southern car, the rockers can flood and fill with water. Since the car is built so water tight, the water stays in the sills for a long time.
Just me, but I would stay away from re-painted cars.
Problem areas that I experienced in 10 years of year round driving:
Rear handbrake was never the same after first brake job Ground failure required a tow Power windows required changing on both sides. Put new top on at year six New exhaust about same six years Early radios has a moisture issue and would not always turn on Plug wires dies every 30k like they were programed to do so New rad at year 8 New AC condenser at year 7
Here is what the sill looks like just behind the lower quarter panel. The interesting thing to note is that the bottom of the quarter panel does not attach to the sill pinchweld, and as such there are no drain holes. The lower part of the quarter is spot welded to the lower curve on the sill and sealed. Water becomes trapped between the inside of the lower quarter and the sill area just under the holes and stays there pretty much forever. You can see the rust in this picture. In this case, there was no visible sign from the outside. If you can see rust from the outside, assume that it is much worse and that the sill itself is starting to go also.
Pull back for a bit of perspective:
Interesting, great advice. I'll effeminately check for that.
Another thing to check for is crushed frame rails under the car. I am not sure what exactly these frame rails are for since they have the strength of folded tin foil, but they are there and people tend to put jacks under them with the result that they get crushed. Lowered cars get a lot of damage to the frame rails to the point where they are hammered flat. Does not seem to have much effect on the car.
Coldsnap wrote: Interesting, great advice. I'll effeminately check for that.
This is my favorite typo ever. Unless it's not a typo, in which case I'd like to know more about your process.
02Pilot wrote:Coldsnap wrote: Interesting, great advice. I'll effeminately check for that.This is my favorite typo ever. Unless it's not a typo, in which case I'd like to know more about your process.
I just saw that typo and laughed. Haha what the hell. Now it's quoted and can never be unsaid.
Coldsnap wrote:02Pilot wrote:I just saw that typo and laughed. Haha what the hell. Now it's quoted and can never be unsaid.Coldsnap wrote: Interesting, great advice. I'll effeminately check for that.This is my favorite typo ever. Unless it's not a typo, in which case I'd like to know more about your process.
I just assumed he was going to get the wife-unit to check it out.
NoHome is close, but there are actually drain holes.
The Miatas used the two "diamond" holes that indicate where the lift point is on the pinch rail as drain holes. You should make the effort to ensure these are clear as that will drastically reduce the chance of rust forming inside of them. Some of them have been pinched closed by people not paying attention when lifting them, so it's good form to check them and make sure it's open with a screwdriver if you need to.
Google search "miata drain holes" and you'll find videos, pictures, articles and anything else you need to understand it (pictures attached below).
I'll add that everyone is correct, Miatas are pretty much bulletproof, cheap to maintain and repair, but they can start to get expensive once you realize that coilovers are only $400 more than the shocks were you going to buy anyway..... :)
Coldsnap wrote: Interesting, great advice. I'll effeminately check for that.
Caitlin?
I'm sort-of local so if you want a second set of eyes, let me know.
I just noticed that is a Shinsen edition. They're cool and not that common.
WonkoTheSane wrote: NoHome is close, but there are actually drain holes. The Miatas used the two "diamond" holes that indicate where the lift point is on the pinch rail as drain holes. You should make the effort to ensure these are clear as that will drastically reduce the chance of rust forming inside of them. Some of them have been pinched closed by people not paying attention when lifting them, so it's good form to check them and make sure it's open with a screwdriver if you need to. Google search "miata drain holes" and you'll find videos, pictures, articles and anything else you need to understand it (pictures attached below). I'll add that everyone is correct, Miatas are pretty much bulletproof, cheap to maintain and repair, but they can start to get expensive once you realize that coilovers are only $400 more than the shocks were you going to buy anyway..... :)
Nope, those drain holes do not apply to the portion of the rear quarter that is below the holes. (The rusty section in the picture)
Have a close look at the picture and you will see a row of spotwelds on the lower curve of the rocker. This is where the bottom of the quarter is attached; surprisingly NOT to the pinchweld. Look at the picture, had the lower quarter been attached to the pinchweld, the outer coating would not still be visible as it would have been on the quarter panel.
Water that gets in the sill structure and rises above the holes in the inner sill will NOT drain out the rocker drain holes but will remain trapped between the outside of the sill and the inside of the lower quarter panel. There is virtually zero gap between these two surfaces and hence water is not likely to evaporate once it gets in. The result is the rust shown in the picture.
If anyone wants any other pictures of how a Miata comes apart, I have many more from when I took this car apart spot-weld-by-spot-weld.
Coldsnap wrote:02Pilot wrote:I just saw that typo and laughed. Haha what the hell. Now it's quoted and can never be unsaid.Coldsnap wrote: Interesting, great advice. I'll effeminately check for that.This is my favorite typo ever. Unless it's not a typo, in which case I'd like to know more about your process.
I just figured you were getting a head start on all the Miata jokes from your "That thing got a Hemi?" car guy friends.
Looking at it now. Its def not a garage kept car but undercarage looks good..
Brett_Murphy wrote: I'm sort-of local so if you want a second set of eyes, let me know.
Pm sent
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