A few years ago I bought a clean Type R in Japan for $14k. They are still regularly cheap at this price on cars and bids and less overseas if you don't mind a JDM.
Japanese version is quite a bit lighter as well. Significantly so.
Series 8 is legal now. Series 8 though has the American weight penalty they just look cooler and are faster lol.
$31k. Does seem like a decent deal for a US model.
Agreed on that being a reasonable price. I was about to drop a bid in at 25K and it had already surpassed my mentally safe mark. I don't hate the JDM models but it negates a chunk of the safe investment factor for me.
31k is a normal price for a stateside JDM car in the tuner category. I think for this it's decent.
Super clean imported stuff like a Toyota Chaser can go for near that as well, if bought stateside, and RX7 is a better buy than that car at that price.
I was looking at 350Z nismo lately and the prices for those are getting crazy, higher than this.
In the late 90s I kept waiting for these cars to get a little cheaper so that I could buy one. Never happened 
Past 10 years USDM ones seem to be sticking around $20k. Pretty much the only car of it's type to not inflate massively in price, ironically it's also the best car of it's competition. Just no movies have got the masses to pay $50k+ for them have come out lol
nderwater said:In the late 90s I kept waiting for these cars to get a little cheaper so that I could buy one. Never happened
They bottomed out at $10k for an engineless roller, I think. Lotta people did LS swaps, then found out that LS1s and LS6s tended to blow up on track, so a bunch of those cars got deconverted back to turbo 13Bs.
kanaric said:Past 10 years USDM ones seem to be sticking around $20k. Pretty much the only car of it's type to not inflate massively in price, ironically it's also the best car of it's competition. Just no movies have got the masses to pay $50k+ for them have come out lol
Where can you find an FD for that little? Turbo IIs surpass that nowadays. When I idly look at FDs they all seem to be $40-50k and up, and it is usually cheaper to buy JDM.
Don't forget that FD stands for Funds Dumpster 
Yeah, I paid $18K for my FD but that was 7 years ago. They've gone up a bunch since then, and similar cars go for $40-50K on BAT. State Farm was happy to do an agreed value policy for $40K on it.
The paint color probably hurt the one in the link, montego blue is the least popular color on FDs. The lack of rotary-specific compression test results also hurts it, because without that the engine is a big question mark.
Seller claimed a brand new engine with 500 miles.. that took 4 years to install by a mechanic whom just retired. Huh.
OHSCrifle said:Seller claimed a brand new engine with 500 miles.. that took 4 years to install by a mechanic whom just retired. Huh.
Yeah, especially in this case I'd want to see compression test numbers.
Wow, that thing is nice. And just a few miles from me.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
Japanese auctions. Like USS Tokyo. That is where I got my 14k Type R. I sold it for double that once landed lmao. You literally got to buy in japan and get 3.5 or 4.0 rated cars at auction sites. I used Pacific Coast JDM to import, they also will bid at auction for you and they give you access to the auction database. Shipping from Tokyo to Long Beach was only like $1500 and their fee for document translation and all their other work was only a couple hundred.
The "downside" is that it will be grey market so look at your state laws regarding cars like this. Where I am you are limited to 5000 miles a year but other states have no such limitation. Has to be a car 25 years old and older as well, from build date.
I have imported 3 cars from using these people, they will also give recommendations that always were helpful on what not to bid on. All 3 cars were good and workd out, the auctions in Japan and the inspection sheet is very accurate.
In Japanese auctions cars are rated from 1-4 generally, interior is rated a, b, c etc. If you get a 3.5 or 4.0 car and A or B interior you basically have a car much more mint than anything you find in the US for liek 1/2 to even 1/4th the price they are here. A 3.5 car and C interior is usually acceptable to me if I want to refresh a car anyways, a 4.0 and A car is literally like factory new where you got to wonder if the owner in Japan even drove it.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:Don't forget that FD stands for Funds Dumpster
It stands for Financial Dependant.
In order to take advantage of the FD tax breaks, you're supposed to start a small company that supplies one of the many interior pieces that are beyond fragile. The car then becomes a necessary test bed, and the maintenance within reason can be written off and counted against your new found parts business income. Be sure to base the business in a friendly environment that won't care if you aren't actually making any profit.
If you are unable to do this and your car becomes Fully Dead, you will need to Fully Disassemble it in a attempt to Finally Diagnose the Frequent Dying. Expect a Frequent Discussion with your s/o until it's Fully Depleted your bank account though it's Fundamental Demeanor of being a Financial Disaster. This usually ends in it being Flipped or Disposed of, and the owner will be Fully Depressed and Finally Done.
However, should you beat that Finicky Di*k at it's own game, you will find yourself Free to Drive a car that not even the F*cking Devil can catch
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