Sub challenge priced 4x4 trucks?

I searched and saw some older threads discussing different trucks but the last one was a couple years ago. I should also add I am NOT looking to start the Ford/Chevy/Dodge/Toyota debate. I would like to know what options or features might be an older Chevy/Ford's of the same vintage.

I'm looking at getting a truck for house projects, hunting, and fishing trips. Hauling will consist of multiple loads of mulch and an occatiosal load of firewood. Only thing being towed will be a 17' bass boat and trailer combo weighing about 2500 lbs. It may also make a couple 5 hour trips to the hunting property we use.

I also have great memories of riding around in my dad's truck on hunting/fishing/lumber yard trips. And even though it had an 8 track and only two tapes Willie Nelson and James Taylor, I know that I could talk to him about anything in that truck. I'm kinda wanting to do that same thing for my kids.

Here's what I'm looking for:

$1500 or less

Does not need to run, I can fix the mechanicals, but, I'm not a body guy so the least amount of rust the better.

1985 or older

4x4

Any transmission

Will meet my earlier specs on towing/hauling

Full size

Any older truck will meet your requirements. For $1,500 and wanting minimal rust, you're probably looking at 80s or older unless you buy something needing major mechanical work.

As far as towing, 2,500 lbs is possible even for a four-cylinder Toyota (although it probably wouldn't be happy).

My vote at that price point would be a late 80's-early 90's S10 with a 4.3/auto. Enough power to get around and tow, dirt-cheap parts, and around here at least they are as common as can be and tend to be pretty cheap. As far as standard features, rust in the cab corners is the only universal one.

psteav--I edited it, but I'm only interested in full size trucks. No S10's no Rangers. Well, unless it is an old Ford Ranger prior to them going small.

XJ Cherokee just rip the back seats out. Bought the best cheapest 4x4s I know of

Depending on how much highway/long-distance driving you're looking to do, I'd be keeping my eyes open for either a '70s or '80s F-series. The older trucks IMO are built a little tougher, but they're going to be thirstier and they've had longer for cancer to set in.

Considering the freakout people are having about gas-prices, you should be able to find one in your price range. I wouldn't stick to that '85 rule, you should be able to find something newer than that still in decent condition in your price range, and newer will have fuel injection and OD.

Stay away from push-button transfercases unless you're deep in the rust-belt, and if it doesn't have them already, convert to manual locking hubs. You give up a little convenience, but you gain a ton in reliability.

FWIW, it seems like Dodges typically go for a little less than comparable Fords/Chevys, but that could just be my local market.

I would be looking at Ford trucks from the '73 to '96, Chevy trucks from '73 to '87, and Dodge trucks from '81 to '93. These are just my preferences, though so take that with a grain of salt.

Standard cabs will almost always be cheaper than an equivalent truck with a extended cab so unless you need the extra interior space...

Has Ford always had the Twin-I-Beam setup up front? I have no personal experience with them, but I know a lot of people hate them and seemingly just as many defend them vehemently.

I am pro-Dodge when it comes to old stuff, but 70's Dodges were full-time 4wd and got truly atrocious fuel mileage. IIRC, it's a little involved to convert them to part-time 4wd.

Hard to beat an XJ as a budget off roader.

psteav wrote: Has Ford always had the Twin-I-Beam setup up front? I have no personal experience with them, but I know a lot of people hate them and seemingly just as many defend them vehemently. I am pro-Dodge when it comes to old stuff, but 70's Dodges were full-time 4wd and got truly atrocious fuel mileage. IIRC, it's a little involved to convert them to part-time 4wd.

IIRC, most 4 x 4's from that era would be straight axle, with the Twin I Beam being on the 2WD models.

psteav wrote: Has Ford always had the Twin-I-Beam setup up front? I have no personal experience with them, but I know a lot of people hate them and seemingly just as many defend them vehemently.

Only 2wd had the Twin I-Beam, but I think you're thinking of the Twin-Traction Beam (TTB) that was used in the '80s/early '90s 4x4s.

I have a TTB in the Bronco, and I've got no issues with it. The trick is getting them aligned properly in the first place; make sure you go to a shop that actually knows TTBs or you'll have a setup that just eats front tires.

Mas info aqui

This would be easy enough to convert to 4WD.

Jeep Comanche Truck - $1400 (Brentwood/Cool Springs) http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/3091389522.html

Gasoline wrote: This would be easy enough to convert to 4WD. Jeep Comanche Truck - $1400 (Brentwood/Cool Springs)

For that price you should be able to find one with 4wd from the factory.

Jeep XJ.

Full size Blazers, Broncos and Ram Chargers would probably fit the bill, too.

-Rob

I wouldn't haul mulch in any enclosed vehicle of mine, and you'll really lose a LOT of firewood carrying capacity over a pickup (especially if you make racks).

If the loss of capacity is fine, I'd chip in that if you're my height or taller, you can't lay down at full extension in the back of a Bronco unless you take the back seat out (ludicrously easy - two pins held in with cotter keys), and I don't think that the back seats in a Cherokee go completely flat. I've no experience with how the sleeping situation is in a Blazer or Ramcharger but I can't imagine they're any different than the Bronco other than possibly how the seat folds/removes.

i paid $500 for my rusty and trusty 87 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4.. yeah, i know- it's 2 years too new for your criteria, but it's running on a 79 HD 3/4 ton chassis, if that matters at all..

i've had 4500 pounds of scrap iron in the back (which put the GVW at around 9800 pounds according to the scale at the scrap yard..) and it only squatted down about 4" and drove quite nicely and the brakes never complained.. the 307 that's currently in it was kind of gutless at that weight, but it pulls a car trailer with a 4000 pound car on it pretty decently. the power issue will go away if i do the 5.3 swap that i've got planned. and it will probably get more than 8mpg then, too....

Thanks for the responses. Even though I thought I had listed all my criteria in the initial post, I didn't. Let me answer a few questions.

Pre 85 qualifies as classics in TN. So a one time $25 tag fee and you are set. Yeah you can only drive it on the weekends, but that's what I plan on doing anyways. I like that idea, but I've seen trucks up to 94ish that fit my criteria so they aren't entirely ruled out.

I'd prefer manual locking hubs and an actual lever to shift into 4wd.

We have an Outback with the 3.0 in our current fleet, so it does everything the XJ does, and manages to get better gas mileage. I do agree with ReverendDexter, why would anyone want to put a load of stinky mulch in the interior of a vehicle? It's hard enough to get the smell of wet dog out of an interior...

So far, I'm looking at in no particular order F150's, Silverado/Sierras, and Jeep J10 and J20s.

I've seen 77-94ish F150's that all fit the criteria. This incorporates a broad spectrum, with everything from the 6cyl to the 351 motors available, manauls and autos, lots of features to stripped down trucks. I think after 91 though autolocking hubs became standard. Anyone know for sure? I like that the motors seem to be consistent throughout the range and parts are easily found and swappable. I see a lot of 351's near me, but I don't really know if I need the 351, and I hear they are pretty heavy.

I'm looking at 74-92ish Chevy/GMC variants. Most of the 88+ models seem to need some type of extensive work, but there are a few that fit my criteria. The Chevy/GMC's seem to be a little more expensive than the Ford's. Most of the Ford's seem to have power windows and in some cases A/C which the Chevy/GMC's don't have. I like the same thing about the Chevy/GMC except that I believe the 305 and 350 were used in just about every car for years so I'll be able to find parts anywhere.

Lastly, Jeep J10 and J20s. I've always been a Jeep guy and these are very interesting to me. However, most of what I see for sale need a lot of rust repair. I think if I could do rust work I'd be all over these, but no such luck for me. It seems they came with 2 motors, the 6cyl and the 460 with no in between. I'm not sure how the 6cyl would go down the interstate, nor do I know anything about parts supplies. They appear to be smaller than the Ford and Chevys, and look to have smaller beds, but man they look good.

I'm sure there is more I am forgetting but that gives you guys more of an idea of my very random thought process.

what you want is a big-ass suburban... I suggest something newer like my old one that had fuel injection...

octavious wrote: We have an Outback with the 3.0 in our current fleet, so it does everything the XJ does

Not even close. There may be other reasons the XJ doesn't work for you, but this isn't one of them.

For the Fords you're looking at, there's two different 351s you're looking at. In the '79 and older it's the 351M, '80 and newer is the 351 Windsor. You should also be seeing 400Ms in the pre-'80s, as that was the other main engine choice in half-tons (no six-cylinder was available to my knowledge, but my info is more specific to Broncos).

If you're looking at an '80+, I strongly recommend the 351 over the 302. The difference in fuel economy is negligible and you'll want the extra torque. The 351W has a lot better aftermarket than the truck-block 302, as well (which is similar, but different in significant ways from the 302 HO in the Mustang) For the '79 and earlier either motor is fine, many will claim the 351M is a boat anchor (and it probably is in stock form), but it's overbuilt for what it is (it's a destroked 400), so it builds up nicely (Cleveland heads swap over). Lots of people REALLY like the 300 I6, personally I don't like the setup on Ford's carb'd I6s though as the intake manifold is integral to the head, and I believe they're all set up for a single-barrel (ugh).

EDIT: Also, for the Fords, converting from auto-locking hubs to manual is very easy, I did it on my '96. You just need the new hubs and a kit that just has a few small parts.

Had a '90 F-150 XLT 4X4 I-6 EFI E4OD w/ 3:55 axle, great truck !! Towed 2500 lbs fine. Sold it around 70K.

Also had a '90 F-150 XLT 4X4 5.0 5-speed w/ 4:10 axle, fun truck rowing thru the gears but I still liked the I-6 better. Sold at 100K.

If you go the F-150 route check the inner RF axle u-joint, hafta drop the front diff from the frame to change it, outers no problem. Also look into aftermarket locking hubs and repack the wheel bearings while you're at it. Inspect all brake lines too. Common rust areas depending on your location.

While I don't know how these fare in higher mileage examples I can tell ya I'd recommend 'em from my experiences.

I've seen rangers as new as 98 for 1600 around here, so you shouldn't grace a problem finding one in running condition thats a little older. The prices have been up due to fuel economy.

I would sell you my 98 Explorer for that much coin, but alas the low rust thing probably won't work out.

Look at an Explorer and buy a few moving blankets to cover the inside when you are hauling.

Cash for clunkers really wiped out the supply of good old used vehicles but good ones can still be found, just have to be persistent.

IMHO, $1500 for a non-rusty 4x4 anywhere in the rust-belt is going to be a tall order, regardless of brand, but in TN, maybe you'll be ok. That would be a pipe-dream in PA.

Unlike Dodge and GM, Ford offered manual front hubs as an option of most trucks up until the current Super Duty model (they may still be std, but it's hard to tell from the current build-it site).

I'm not sure if mpg matter to you much, but 20 years ago I had a '78 F150 4x4 with a 351M 4 spd. It was my DD at the time and driven conservatively (60 mph on the hwy, max), it would get 10 mpg (about 200 miles per tank). Others with similar trucks at the time said that was really good with a bone-stock engine. With a set of headers and a 650 4V carb, it would get a few more.