I have a chance to buy a 142. Year, condition, why it's dead in the yard,...all unknown. What should I know before I write a check or run screaming from the scene?
All I'm looking for at this point is a DD that ain't everybody's DD. Whether I attempt an engine/drivetrain swap, is really unknown at this point.
What must I know, Obiwan??
I ask because the turbobrick group loses focus after just a couple posts in a thread, and it turns all name-calling nasty...at least the threads I looked at did. I figured here I'd get at least a few legit responses before it derailed.
Biggest thing on any car like that is how much rust there is. Anything else can be fixed a lot easier than that.
I'd say rust would be your biggest worry. Especially if it's been sitting. I know the engines in those are pretty hardy, but that's all I got.
Oh, and Junkyard_dog managed to get his one for free - http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/reader-rides/877/, and JG recently drove one back from Canada. They'll probably chime in at some point, with proper facts and stuff 
.
Thanks!! Free would be great, but I don't know if Darrel will agree. I'll offer to 'take it off his hands before the City sqwacks". And yup, it has been sitting, at least 7-8 years. I'm frankly surprised the neighborhood kids haven't broken the windows out. Darrel must have a better brand of bonehead kid up where he lives...
These cars are pretty simple & tough. I agree that rust would be the primary worry. The B20 (or B18, depending on MY) is a solid engine, capable of good performance. You'll find either D-Jet EFI or carbs - I liked the D-Jet in my 164, but it is less tuneable than a carb setup. All but the earlier cars will have 4-wheel discs. Front suspension is upper/lower A-arms, rear is live axle very similar (but not identical) to the later 240.
There's a lot of parts commonality in the body between the 140 and 240. I see fewer engine swaps in these models, simply because the engine bay isn't quite as big, but it can be done.
Rust is the killer. A non-overdrive will suck on the highway. Some rubber and electrical parts are NLA with a limited supply of used stuff. Wheel options are limited to other Volvo wheels unless you use adapters. Vent windows come undone and flap about but can be swapped to better 240 stuff. Check out the brickboard for more info. its a clunky site but theres much less bashing than turbobricks. Year and options can make all the difference between a fun DD and a neverending project.
Its funny you titled the thread this way. I have a 142, and this is the plate on my Miata:
They are fun old cars. Due to the age, some parts availability is a bit tough, but quite honestly, Volvo is probably as good as anybody when it comes to support for the older cars. Heater fan motors have been unavailable for years, but almost all of the hard parts are still available.
The 140 uses high offset wheels, so FWD Volvo wheels along with Ford Taurus/platform mates, and Ford/Lincoln/Jaguar DEW-98 platform mates.
Thanks to all!
To 11110000 (have to figure that out in Binary... 10 types of people in the world: those that understand binary and those that don't 
): By 'smaller engine compartment' do you mean narrower, or shorter lengthwise, or shorter heightwise. Or some combination?
Also didn't know about Volvo specific wheels, but now I do. 
I figured on the rust, but since Montana is as dry as it is, and we don't use salt (save that for steaks and popcorn...) on the roads, I thought I might squeak by with minimal damage to repair. I'll know more Tuesday or Wednesday when I talk to Darrel. Thanks to all who have answered. And thanks for the encouragement! Much appreciated!
Mikey52_1 wrote: By 'smaller engine compartment' do you mean narrower, or shorter lengthwise, or shorter heightwise. Or some combination?
If it is anything like the 544 it is very narrow.
EvanB wrote:Mikey52_1 wrote: By 'smaller engine compartment' do you mean narrower, or shorter lengthwise, or shorter heightwise. Or some combination?If it is anything like the 544 it is very narrow.
Sounds like another place for an inline whatever...GM inline 5, maybe?
In reply to Mikey52_1:
The engine bay is close to the same width, but shorter than in a 240. There is a trade-off there, because the 240 has a McPherson strut front suspension as opposed to the less intrusive A-arms on the 140. Here's someone who stuffed a 6.0L V8 into one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahZU9Nj8QuE
Volvo shares it's bolt circle with a few Fords - if you desire Aerostar wheels, or SHO salad-shooters, they can be made to fit. A more exciting option is Ferrari - yes, same bolt circle, and sometimes no offset correction is required.
B-series engines are largely indestructible. The boxes they come in tend to rust like there's no tomorrow, however. Per's the real expert around here, but from my experience with my car (a 1970) I can tell you that they're largely dead simple and straightforward. Giant hunks of Swedish steel with tractor motors. Mine is a few hours from being back on the road (swapped the dual SUs for a single Weber, and replaced the largely non-functioning brakes). They're good transportation and reasonably fun in that "slow old car" sort of way.
jg
I'd just throw in that the B18 and 20 motors are actually pretty damn good for 1960 pushrod technology. Decent sized ports. In race trim, the pushrod motors are getting north of 200 at the crank. Nothing sophisticated, but calling them tractor motors (which some of them were used for) doesn't quite do them justice.
In reply to kreb:
S.H.O. Tractor Motors.
That's one of the best things about them; even in race trim, at full song, they still sound like a tractor! 
kreb wrote: but calling them tractor motors (which some of them were used for) doesn't quite do them justice.
I meant that in the most flattering, "what-doesn't-kill-them-only-makes-them-stronger" sort of way. Bulletproof and dead simple. The use of standard (and not metric) fasteners freaked me out a bit, though.
jg
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