So the only issue I had with the coil over install was the right front end link rubs the brake line on the passenger side. Even though this is only 138hp 2500lb car, I figure brakes are still slightly important. The problem is thehead of the end link is too fat. would rod ends work for this? I only need about half an inch to have sufficient clearance.
The ones I have are all about 12" in length. I can't go shorter, but I could go longer. Thoughts?
edit: end link in question.
It's hard to know exactly what might work without more details. Will something like this clear? Summit sells these for pretty cheap.
edit: available in various lengths.
How about upgrading to ss braided lines with a different routing?
In reply to APEowner :
It's the hard line out of the body that it rubs, not therubber line. The only way thatwould work would be to cut a different hole in the body, run completely new lines from the ABS pump to that wheel.
In reply to WillG80 :
This is what I'm thinking, but I don't know how thick those heads are. Literally, half an inch past the bolt hole and I have all the room in theworld. but right there at thetop... not so much.
post a picture of the issue? Maybe we can all come together to figure out a solution
In reply to 79rex :
I'll have to jack the car up and take the wheel off in 90+* humid as F heat. The fat head of the end link is too fat and rubs the hard brake line where it comes through the body and tucks against the inner fender. The head needs to be 1/2" thinner.
In reply to bobzilla :
To clarify....the coilovers have lowered the car, so the upper end of the end link is rubbing the steel line where it turns along the inner fender?
From one poor diagram online, I'd look at cutting off the tab on the shock and moving it a half inch away from the inner fender. A proper picture would help.
In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :
Correct
Alternatively... is there room forward of that upper end link mount? Could you fab and bolt (or weld) an extension to the shock to move that upper mounting point?
Is this a reasonable facsimile of what we're discussing? Link is rubbing the brake line shown?
My thought is either extend the tab for clearance, or possibly cut the endlink in half, sleeve it, and weld it back together so you can pass through the mounting tab from the opposite side?
Sounds like you need shorter and/or adjustable links to get the sway bar back in to the correct position.
And then this wouldn't be an issue?
I could theoretically tie it to the LCA if I drill a hole, and I could have someone weld new tabs but that's going to be questionable on structural stability.
In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :
thatos it. That tab is now about an inch north of there directly inline with the hard line. when you turn left, that tab swings towards the body and the head of the endlink hits the line
In reply to bobzilla :
Ah, I get it now. It looks like a hiem joint with a short fastener could tuck the joint in the half inch closer to the strut that you need and still provide enough range of motion. You can make end links with hiem joints and tubing any length you want.
Any chance you could mount the end link "backwards" on the "wrong side" of the bracket on the strut tube?
That diagram looks like it could work with a thick bushing.
In reply to SVreX (Forum Supporter) :
NOPE. Tried that. the offset for the sway bar is too far off.
Could you build your own brackets that attach to the strut/knuckle bolts and then source some much shorter/different endlinks to connect as needed?
You're not going to want to connect the sway bar to the middle of the control arm as it will significantly reduce the effective spring rate of the sway bar. Since it's currently attached at the strut, you want to keep it attached at the strut.
In reply to therieldeal :
No... I am not capable nor willing to weld anything on the strut bodies. I have zero fabrication skillz and it if can't be bolted on I find someone else to do it.
What diameter is the stud on the end link? I can measure some of my Heim joints with a bolt head and see how thick they are vs the links.
Edit: Smallest I have, which are for the end links on my Challenge Corolla, are a half inch stud. The ball in the Heim is 5/8 thick, plus the thickness of a bolt head. The head of a bolt could be ground down, or get button head cap screws, which are shallower.
In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :
5/8" is much better than the current 1.5. I was thinking a round headed bolt of some form would be best by not coffering any sharp edges.
the Studs are M12.
In reply to bobzilla :
QA1 rods ends at Speedway Motors can be had in a 12mm hole and the rod end thickness is 16mm. IF there is enough freedom of movement to simply bolt the rod ends to the tabs you should be good, BUT if you need spacers it'll get thicker quickly. They sell the spacers, so dimensions should be there, too.
Could it be swapped to face the opposite way?
Mount it on the other side and maybe slightly trim the stud/use a thinner nut?
Stefan (Forum Supporter) said:Could it be swapped to face the opposite way?
Mount it on the other side and maybe slightly trim the stud/use a thinner nut?
In reply to SVreX (Forum Supporter) :
NOPE. Tried that. the offset for the sway bar is too far off.
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