Thinner end links? Is this a thing?

DeadSkunk (Warren) said:

In reply to bobzilla :

QA1 rods ends at Speedway Motors can be had in a 12mm hole and the rod end thickness is 16mm. IF there is enough freedom of movement to simply bolt the rod ends to the tabs you should be good, BUT if you need spacers it'll get thicker quickly. They sell the spacers, so dimensions should be there, too.

LIKE THESE? 

https://www.amazon.com/TUOREN-Bearing-Lubricating-Connector-Joint-2pcs/dp/B07VT5FC37/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=12mm%2Brod%2Bend&qid=1624988935&sr=8-1&th=1

In reply to bobzilla :

Kinda....the 12mm ones appear to be female thread. What were you planning on using for the rod itself? If it were me, I'd get a set of four 1/2" Heims, two right and two left threads, and two swaged tubes of the appropriate length.

Edit: Just like what Will posted earlier, but with a longer center section. You'll have to figure out what length to order.

Swedged Steel Tube, 1/2 Inch Thread (speedwaymotors.com)

I just measured some stuff in my garage. The center to center length between the two Heims ends up about 2.5 inches longer than the tube length, with the Heims screwed all the way in and with the jam nuts in place. That's using 1/2" Heims and matching tube. I could extend that length by 1-1.5" without concern. In the Speedway link the shortest tube is 7" and goes up in 1" increments. Also, the swaged tubes are 0.75" diameter. Do you have room for that thickness compared to the stock links? These things are visually bulky compared to the stock units, but should work if there's nothing else in the way.

Easist thing I can think of to take one of those endlinks to the parts store, and find one that's an inch or two shorter, then grab a chunk o' steel, punch two holes in like so:

And connect the endlinks to the new bottom holes.  Just make sure that the holes same distance apart on both sides!

bobzilla said:

In reply to WillG80 :

This is what I'm thinking, but I don't know how thick those heads are. Literally, half an inch past the bolt hole and I have all the room in theworld. but right there at thetop... not so much.

Get on McMaster Carr, look up the rod ends.  They typically have drawings with dimensions spec'd out.

Random example: https://www.mcmaster.com/60645K17/

In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :

i'LL have to look again this weekend but in my mind once you get 3" down the frame ends and theres open space 

WonkoTheSane said:

Easist thing I can think of to take one of those endlinks to the parts store, and find one that's an inch or two shorter, then grab a chunk o' steel, punch two holes in like so:

And connect the endlinks to the new bottom holes.  Just make sure that the holes same distance apart on both sides!

And what keeps that tab from swinging?

In reply to bobzilla :

I'd put a 90* bend the top of the tab so it's locked at the top, and a lot of clamping force :)   Sorry, I was kinda limited since I used your small picture and MS Paint..

bobzilla said:

WonkoTheSane said:

Easist thing I can think of to take one of those endlinks to the parts store, and find one that's an inch or two shorter, then grab a chunk o' steel, punch two holes in like so:

And connect the endlinks to the new bottom holes.  Just make sure that the holes same distance apart on both sides!

And what keeps that tab from swinging?

I know you said no welding, but Wonko's idea and a couple of MIG welds where the extension bracket touches that tab and you would be good to go.

Well, this solved itself. Adjusted the ride height on the car, the head of the end link moved up enough to clear. The only time it's really close is full droop, turned to the lock left. Now if I can just leep the links tight enough! 

These end links keep coming loose... about to throw some locktight on these things. It does rub the body on full compression turning in. I may need to "massage" the inner fender tro make more room

In reply to bobzilla :

A little blue 242 never hurt anybody :)