Through - hole for castle nut too far out.

The hole in a new tie rod end is too far out, for the split pin to engage the castle nut. 

Would a dab of hot glue be ok, or should I try to drill a new hole? 

Blue loctite or drill a new hole

OR

Add a washer or two under the nut to get the serations at the right place

stafford1500 said:

Blue loctite or drill a new hole

OR

Add a washer or two under the nut to get the serations at the right place

Washers have worked every time in this application to fix it. For well over 100k under me.

Yeah, I'd think a thick steel washer under the nut would solve the problem and be a good idea generally to spread the clamping force across the mating surface.

washer

Washer.  

Just wanting to see how many "washer" comments you get lol.

washer (6)

Okey dokey. Washer it is. Duh. Sometimes the simplest solutions evade me. 

Have you thought about trying a washer yet?

Not sure, but maybe a washer would work...

The first time I heard my Dad talking about washers (I was maybe six) I was trying to figure out how it washed anything.

I think my exact words were "TunaDad, I can't see how this can wash anything. Though now that I see one, I can easily see how it would be useful if your balljoint nut ever placed the cotter pin too far above the castlenut to engage properly."

I haven't read the previous posts, but think washers would solve your problem...

In reply to dj06482 :

Liar.

Jam nut.

Sorry, I just have to be different.

  Self locking nut, forget the cotter pin....

It seems to me that an easy solution might be to place some sort of metal piece behind the castle nut so that it lines up with the drilled hole. The piece should have a round through hole in the center so it can slip over the threaded portion and be captured once the whole assembly is made up. So, what your going to need is a round holed metal shimmy spacerery thing.

Id go for a washer 

New nut doesn't match the witness mark left by the old nut.  Looks like old nut was a larger size.  Are you sure the new part is correct and has the same size taper as the old one?

In reply to NOT A TA :

Wouldn't a washer be an easier solution? 

Cotter pin shaped like a top hat.  LOL

NOT A TA said:

New nut doesn't match the witness mark left by the old nut.  Looks like old nut was a larger size.  Are you sure the new part is correct and has the same size taper as the old one?

Or!!! Epiphany time here!! The above mentioned marks may have been made by that missing washer!!!

What if you could manufacture a plate with a hole for the stud to fit thru, placed under the nut, with adequate thickness to line the castle nut up with the cross hole?

can we call this washer a dungeon washer or perhaps a moat washer because it goes under the castle nut?

TLDR

but I'd say washer

NOT A TA said:

New nut doesn't match the witness mark left by the old nut.  Looks like old nut was a larger size.  Are you sure the new part is correct and has the same size taper as the old one?

A lot of the cheap chassis parts ive boght (and expensive) lately have smaller than original fasteners. Buy up to three wrench sizes. Don't know why that is but the tapers and everything else match up perfectly