Through - hole for castle nut too far out.

That castle nut is way too small to mount that tie rod end to that steering knuckle.  I would.....

1. Use a fender washer.  Then...
2. wash yer fender to remove dirty handprints.

Tried a washer?

Uncle, already! Sheesh. lol

I have a lathe.  I'd get a piece of round stock of a bit larger than the OD of that nut, chuck it up, bore a hole in the middle just a tad bit larger than the major diameter of those threads, get in there with the parting tool and slice off a relatively thin section, say, I dunno, about the thickness of 3 or 4 of those threads, then put that under the nut.  Vee-oh-la, the hole will line up with the castle nut.

I think we're gonna need pics of the fix in order for this silliness to stop.  Even that's no guarantee.

In reply to EastCoastMojo :

Did I inadvertently start a new "ignore" type thread? 

I'll take a pic tomorrow. 

Have you tried a hand grenade in conjunction with a washer for said nut?

What about a trampoline and washer?

I would call the new part I fabbed "Speed Queen."

You could do what the gug who assembled a car I worked on did...

Back off all the nuts until it lined up perfectly with the cotter pin hole.

I see a lot of people doing the "finger tight then back off until it lines up" thing as if it were an old wheel bearing, but a few of these were over three turns loose.

Remember, you share the road with these people...

I'm always amazed that the aftermarket industry can't build a ball joint that is functionally identical to the oem. Every single replacement joint I've ever bought has had something off about. Things like a different size hex on the nut (usually in a socket size you don't have), cotter pin hole in the wrong place, different thread pitch than oem (which basically makes the factory torque spec null and void), even boots that are literally impossible to install. They're just infuriating. Buy oem ball joints whenever possible!

In reply to Knurled. :

Probably the same animals that boat anchor the cotter pin.

pinchvalve said:

I'm not sure exactly what you call that thing, but I think it may just work to solve the problem here.

Try a spacer under the nut?

"Now... you don't have to use a washer in a situation like this...

...but it helps."

how about, why I should purchase moog chassis parts for $1000 alex?

I know a lot of folks recommend using a washer, but why not just go with a taller nut? Who doesn't like a bigger nut? You may want to get one for the other side to keep things balanced 

Girls love bigger nuts.

i was going to say a dryer, but a washer is probably more suited for the job

In reply to Fueled by Caffeine :

$1000 washer? you buying from the Military moog chassis catalog?

Appleseed said:

Girls love bigger nuts.

As the former owner of a grapefruit sized hydrocele I can assure there is a tipping point where it changes to "You really should get that looked at"
 

Jumper K Balls said:

Appleseed said:

Girls love bigger nuts.

As the former owner of a grapefruit sized hydrocele I can assure there is a tipping point where it changes to "You really should get that looked at"
 

Whoops. Shouldn't have googled that at work...

Have you thought of some sort of shim to move the nut closer to the hole?

I very much approve of this thread, but for the record i would do nothing. Proper torque is what prevents the nut from coming loose. The cotter pin still serves its purpose of not letting the nut fall off.