Towing 101 (with a high mileage 1999 Mercury Mountaineer)

My parents were going to donate 1999 Mercury Mountaineer, as my mom got a new Civic as a daily driver. I convinced them that instead of donating it they should give it to me, since I could use a utility/tow/beater vehicle. I am getting to the point that I would ideally like to start towing my E30 track toy rather than driving it to/from events. The thing is, I know nothing about towing, especially with an older Mercury Mountaineer (essentially an Explorer) with 157k miles on it.

So my question is twofold:

1) Educate me on the basics of towing. The Mountaineer is a 5.0L AWD with the towing package. I'll be renting a trailer from Uhaul when its needed and towing my E30 which weighs roughly 2,650 lbs. I figure thats a total of roughly 5,000 lbs. and the explorer weighs roughly 4,100 lbs. It does not have a tow hitch, so I would need to install one. Everything is also complicated by this.

It was hit about a year ago, and they didnt fix it because they knew they would be getting a new car soon. How difficult will this be to fix so that I can install a hitch? My parents aren't car people, although they dont hesitate to spend money to maintain them.

2: What do I need to make sure is in good order on this car? I just changed the brakes since it needed them. It already has a re-built trans in it, which works fine under normal load. It shifts roughly if flooring it, but that hardly happens in such a vehicle. If Im towing I need good shocks, right? What else? Is this a bad idea?

Thanks. Here are few other pics of the Mountaineer. I like it, the brakes were super easy to do, and its rust free.

It will tow fine, just keep your speed sane.

You need new bumper brackets. They are designed to bend like that when an impact occurs.

there's no way a U-Haul trailer weighs more than about 1500 pounds, tops, so take that into consideration..

otherwise don't sweat it- that's a light car on a light trailer that weighs less than the tow vehicle.. as long as you get the tongue weight right, you will hardly even notice the trailer behind it once you get moving.

definitely change the fluids in the rear axle, transfer case, and transmission and make sure everything is in order. other than that, it aint rocket surgery.

This sounds encouraging. What should I be looking for in a tow hitch? How difficult are they to install.

Uhaul's website says their car trailers weigh 2,210 lbs. Is this a high estimate?

Here's a video for a 2000 Exploder:

http://www.etrailer.com/tv-hitch-install-2000-ford-explorer.aspx

This thread is relevant to my interests because I am also looking for a tow rig/winter beater pickup.

Add a big trans cooler, run synthetics in the Tcase and diffs.

I had a 98 Exploder with the SOHC V6. I pulled a 5000lb. boat and trailer combo with it. Yours with the V8 should be even better.

Check and see if your rig already has an external trans cooler. Mine did and it was very obvious sitting in front of the rad. If it doesn't have one add one.

The bumper brackets are two bolts per side to get off the frame and 4 more to get off the bumper, if they are like the fronts.

Don't try to tow at 75 mph - mine was quite happy towing between 55 and 60.

I have heard that the U-haul car trailers are around the 2K lb. mark. BTW don't be surprised if U-haul won't rent to you. They won't if you own an Explorer. They are black-listed due to the exploding tire issues a few years back. I don't know if they include the Mercury versions on that list or not.

U-Hauls trailers are built like brick E36 M3 houses, so I'm sure it does weigh over 2000lbs. I have one of their former tow dollys and it's really heavy.

You'll need new bumper brackets, and make sure the frame rail ends aren't crumpled or tweaked. Find a good class III trailer hitch and a quality trailer brake control.

Klayfish wrote: U-Hauls trailers are built like brick E36 M3 houses, so I'm sure it does weigh over 2000lbs. I have one of their former tow dollys and it's really heavy. You'll need new bumper brackets, and make sure the frame rail ends aren't crumpled or tweaked. Find a good class III trailer hitch and a quality trailer brake control.

bumper brackets? the new receiver hitch can also function as a bumper support..

On Uhaul's website it asks you to input what you will be towing the trailer with, and what will be going on the trailer. If the weight of the truck doesnt equal 80% of the trailer/towed vehicle, they wont rent to you. I inputted that I would be using a Mercury Mountaineer, and it didnt say anything about how they wouldnt rent to me, so hopefully that means I wont be denied.

Thanks for the video RexSeven. That was helpful.

If you are using Uhaul trailers, then the brake controller will be useless as their trailers have surge brakes, not electric brakes.

Personally I would keep an eye out on CL for a good used open trailer, you will run across deals that will fit your needs. Renting a Uhaul trailer will get expensive over time and they aren't always available when you need them.

What does it mean to have surge brakes? How do the brakes on trailers work?

Unfortunately I dont have space to keep a trailer full time, at least not at the moment.

Is this a good example of a trans cooler that should be added? http://www.etrailer.com/tran-1999_Mercury_Mountaineer.htm

Here is some info on surge vs electric http://www.redtrailers.com/ShowArticle.asp?id=2

Those trans coolers will work for you. That plate style is better than the tube and fin ones.

novaderrik wrote: there's no way a U-Haul trailer weighs more than about 1500 pounds, tops, so take that into consideration..

I JUST rented a Uhaul trailer, and they actually have stickers on it for curb weight. It was approximately 2100 pounds.

What you are asking depends on a LOT of variables.

First off, what IS the factory tow rating with tow package? There is a reason for it to be rated as it is...

Second, you have to factor in more than just your car + trailer combo. For instance, my truck is rated to tow 7000 pounds, and the total GROSS COMBINED WEIGHT of truck and trailer is 12500. The truck weighs around 5000 pounds with the topper and fully fueled. So that means I can only (at best) put 500 pounds in the truck. If I have 400 pounds of occupants, that leaves me with 100 pounds until I am officially overloaded.

So, this is what I found in a quick search (yours is probably rated a bit lower due to the 4x4):

interwebs said: It has a curb weight of 4,404 lbs., a maximum towing capacity of 6,440 lbs

Now, that towing capacity is diminished if you are hauling a lot in the vehicle itself. Currently, you want to tow 2100lb trailer + 2650lb car = 4750lb.

What about spares? Tires/rims? How many people in it? As you can see, you can quickly add 1000 pounds no problem.

The next question is, are you towing flatland or hills? Makes a huge difference. Altitude also makes a difference I never realized before while towing. My truck at around sea level can tow 5500lbs and carry an additional 1000lbs in it like a boss. At 5500ft? Not even close. Especially up hills.

If there is not a tranny cooler already, install the largest one you can that is reasonable. I don't think you can "overcool" a transmission.

And finally, as others pointed out, tow sanely. In my truck, I shot for cruising around 65mph. If I saw a steep-ish hill coming up, I manually kicked it out of 4th locked into 3rd locked.

Are you sure it has the factory towing package? It should have come with a receiver hitch in that case. If it doesn't, you may want to look into a trans cooler.

Tom_Spangler wrote: Are you sure it has the factory towing package? It should have come with a receiver hitch in that case. If it doesn't, you may want to look into a trans cooler.

My 95 F150 had a towing package, but had to have a hitch installed.

210,000 on the 5.0 and still pulls a flatbed with a car on it just fine. Beefing up the rear suspension, although not necessary, may be helpful.

N Sperlo wrote: Beefing up the rear suspension, although not necessary, may be helpful.

Another good point, if you run the truck sacked out in the rear, you can get bad wear on the front tires. Airbag kits are cheap (around $250 shipped) easy to install, and effective. You don't need much pressure to make a huge difference.

Tom_Spangler wrote: Are you sure it has the factory towing package? It should have come with a receiver hitch in that case. If it doesn't, you may want to look into a trans cooler.

I have the window sticker which states the suv has ".3.73 LS Axle/Trailer Tow". Im assuming this means I have a final drive suitable for towing with an LSD and tow package. Correct me if Im wrong. It definitely doesnt have a hitch installed though. I havent had a chance yet to look for a trans cooler.

HiTempGuy, thanks for the detailed post. The things you said are exactly the kinds of things I need to learn.

According to the OEM manual/book that came with the car, it has a Maximum GCWR of 11,000 lbs. Curb weight, as you said is 4,404. That leaves over 6,600 lbs. of weight for the trailer and gear.

As of now I drive to and from the track solely with the E30 and the stuff I can pack into it. I dont foresee myself bringing that much more stuff with me, so I would only have about 250 lbs of stuff in the truck, plus me (200 lbs.). That totals 450 lbs., lets go with 500. Thus 4,404 + 500 + 2100 + 2700 = roughly 9,700 lbs. That leaves me under the GCWR by over 1,000 lbs.

I live in NJ, and will initially be towing to NJMP, WGI, and Summit Point. The terrain is mostly rolling hills, with a few higher pulls in there, but nothing overly serious.

So far, this is what I need to do to make sure this is safe and reliable.

Class III hitch installed (and fix rear bumper) Trans Cooler New Shocks Fresh Synthetic Fluids in Trans/transfer case, and diffs Possibly rear air suspension

What else? Anybody know anything general problems inherent to this type of Exploder/Mountaineer?

I sincerely appreciate all of your help. Thanks!!!

Actually I think the trailer tow package was std equip on all 5.0's.

I stand corrected, then. I've never seen a recent-ish Ford with the tow package and no hitch, so I assumed it was part of the deal.

Installing a bolt-on hitch is pretty easy, I've done it on the wife's Taurus X and a Windstar before that. Should be even easier with a vehicle with an actual frame.

You should make sure U-Haul will rent to you at all. I know here in Canada U-Haul will not rent you a trailer if you are towing with a Ford Explorer. This is a result of the Firestone tire problems of a few years ago when they would blow out, and the Explorer would flip. Even though it wasn't the truck issue, it was the tires. The whole lawsuit thing raises red flags with U-Haul when ever they hear "Ford Explorer".

They wouldn't rent to me because of this. Even though I didn't have Firestone tires, and my Explorer is a 2002. Which is completely different from the supposed dangerous previous generation. They heard "Explorer" and that killed the deal.

The big problem with U-haul trailers, IMHO, is that even if you make a reservation it's no guarantee that your trailer will actually be there when you show up. They don't have many of them, and if it accidentally gets rented to someone else, or the previous renter didn't return it on time, or whatever, then you're basically stuck.

The reservation thing is a huge problem. I'll have to look into that.

I just went through the Uhaul website, and when I said I am towing with a Ford Explorer, it said they would not let me tow with that vehicle. When I changed it to a Mercury Mountaineer, it says I can rent the auto transport trailer. So it looks like I would be ok on that end, although I will call to confirm.

I don't trust bumper hitches at all...