Toyota 4af engines

I am trying to build a 1989 Corolla for use on the dirt tracks here in the mini stock class. I got the car dirt cheap with the number one rod cap in the oilpan. I can't find any engine blueprinting specs anywhere. What is the rod length center to center? What is the cams specs? Does the 4afe have better cams? What is the compression ratio? Where can I find cheap cast hi compression pistons (like silvo lites) and replacement rods? Sure, I could swap in a 4age but the car has a $1000 claim rule for the class. If I show up with a 4age I am getting claimed just so some guy can sell the engine for a profit. I run the 4af it falls under the radar.Looks stock. It's an automatic. I want to ditch the feedback carb and run a holley 2bbl or weber. Is the t.v cable progresive or linear movement in relation to the throttle linkage? Will the trans last long if I leave it disconnected? I need any info I can get...thanx ppl...

You're going to be best off just finding a junkyard 4AF and swapping that in. Trying to rebuild what you have will run way over 1K.

And I think a Chilton's or the equivalent would have most of your answers, but it is my understanding that a 4AF shares bore and stroke with the 4AG, so specs like rod length for the 4AG should be the same.

4AF motors are a dime a gross. I'd blow a few up first before I got too committed. And the corollas just a couple years newer came with multipoint injection. Nobody would notice if you swapped that on there.

Everyone says the 4af is plentiful but I can't find one here. I would give a few hundred for a used one. I am oldskool and would rather have a carb setup than efi. I found some pistons at summitracing.com for $30 and B&P rods has stockers for $25 bucks. Crank fixed for $100. If I bought a junker engine I would rering it and replace the bearings,oil and water pumps and all the gaskets. I don't want to fix it again for a while. 4age pistons are .020 bigger bore and use a different wrist pin size. At least that is what the crappy haynes manual says. I will try to get it going soon. I am going to post a want add or 2 looking for an engine before I commit to taking the block crank and head to get machined. I am just going with a hone and hot tank,fix the crank and shave the head 0.010. Pretty cheap and basic. Will a 7afe head mate to a 4af carb intake? would it fit my tranny, an a103? Just keeping the options open. Got to get some z's......peace ppl

According to car-part.com, there is one in Griffin, Ga at A and B Auto Salvage (1-800-726-1570) for $350. Worth the drive?

think you could buy a 4afe and just put the carb crap on it? Last time I looked on car-part there were like 25 PAGES of available motors.

Everything I've ever seen says the 4AF and 4AG have the same bore and stroke. Bore is 81.0mm, stroke 77.0mm. Wrist pins might be different, especially when dealing with a smallport/20v which have bigger wrist pins than a 16v. 7AF had the same 81.0mm bore but a longer stroke.

I don't know about your 4AF intake on a 7AF head. It might work, and I'd bet it probably would. Go to the auto parts store and look at an intake gasket for a 4AF and a 7AFE and compare them. The blocks will both fit your transmission. That is, any "A" block will fit your bell housing, 2A, 4A, 7A, etc.

http://www.mr2.com/files/mr2/techinfo/Random%20FSM%20Data/4afe.pdf

i really doubt someone could claim the car for $100 and make money selling off a stock 4AGE. if that were the case, i'd sell off the rebuilt one in the $500 MR2 in my garage and replace it w/ a 20V or GZE.

had a 4afe ripped apart.... identical rods to the early 4ag engine... the pistons had more "dish" for lower c/r (more of a large cut out section) and the crank had fewer bolts for the flywheel...

may look for a 7afe? little more displacment and still fly under the radar...

7afe short block/4age cyl head/ 924 porche timing belt and dont turn it over 7500rpm not that ive interpreted the rules to my advantage once or twice hehe

Thanx,reading up on my options and doing alot of research. Wearing out the search buttons here and on another toyota site that keeps locking up my aol. I keep having to retart it. Anyone have a link to 4af engine specs? I have tried looking everywhere online. I really need to know the block deck height and the heads cc's to figure out the compression ratios for diferent pistons. Also I dont know crap about judging the valve lifts on a multi valve engine. I know what the spec lobe heights are. Haynes says" service limit intake 1.370 in.,exhaust 1.359 in." How do I figure out how much lift I'm getting? I'm thinking old skool gm here. Multiply the lobe lift time the rocker ratio? It's a lobe on bucket on valve type deal so its valve lift= lobe height minus lobe to lifter clearence x 2 to equal that of a single valve engine for comparison?

Found a Geo engine for 300. I hope the guy still has it when I get paid next week. Will try to give 200 and a mt. bike if I can. Hey,times are tough its all I got.

yup geo prizm/spectrum have the 4af engine :)... only reason I know anything about it... sorry my shop manuals are buried in boxes in the attic.

spectrum too? I thought those were an Isuzu product.

hmm ... i'm thinking chevy nova... i think...

Found a whole parts car hit in rear,same drivetrain dirt cheap. Only catch is I don't have a way to get it because my friend that has the truck and trailer is putting a new engine in his truck. After I get paid tuesday I would give $50 for gas and the rest of the car minus the drivetrain for scrap if someone would tow it home. Hell, all I really want is the engine,rotors and a few good tires.

Still trying to get my parts car home..... I was looking at a gear calculator to see the rpms for different tires I may run. The numbers I came up with for my 2nd gear in the a130 are 1.549 to 1. I need to run 65-68 mph going in to the turns to keep up with the pack. The numbers say it is possible to get there using second gear and a 24 inch tire around 5500 rpms. Add converter slippage and its more like 6000 to 6200.Anyone know what the rev limits are on a stock 4af? I was thinking dont rev it past 6000 but am I playing it to safe? I know the cams probably make peak torque around 3500 and peak hp around 4200...just a wild guess,they are stock. I got to keep it wound up all the way around the track,WOT. I got the stock carb,internal coil distro. Whats the factory rpm cutoff?

I must admit just like Einstien," I do not know".....

Well, a 20 valve 4AG will spin 8K RPM. I've done it, but I think I have my rev limit at around 7K or 7.5K right now just because I'd bounce it off 8 if it was there. At 9K, they say you measure your piston life in miles. Just taking a SWAG on a 4AF, I'm going to guess that 6K RPM won't even get it warmed up. You should be fine. warpedredneck says 7.5K on a 7AF, so I'm going to say that 7.5K on a 4AF would probably be no problem as well.

The 4AF and 4AFE share the same crank. The 16v 4AG of the same year is a different part number.

Id love to run a weber carbed 4ag or even a 7afe with a carb setup. Hell,I'd just love to get anything to make it run. I need help getting a parts car home.Nobody I know with a trailer wants to do crap for me.But I'm always fixing on thier junk for nothing. Figures. I got $20 bucks,a mountain bike and the car minus the engine if someone will go get it. Been hit in back.Looks like it will now be what I will be driving to work instead of my toy now that the repo man has came and went. I blame the idiots that screwed the economy up thus screwing me out of a good job thus screwing me out of a decent paycheck. At least minimum wage went up right? People always need fast food.....

OK, doode. Priorities time. Race car, racing, all thoughts there-of are now officially at the bottom of the list. Basic transportation and income is now top of the list. It sucks, and I hope things work out for you.

Yup..I guess I just get the pile moving under its own power then get it close to what I want a little at a time. Aint going to race it untill I get another truck so if I crash it I won't be screwed. Maybe 2 more weeks when I get another paycheck it will get a junkyard engine and a rattlecan rebuild. Sad I have to give 300 for the engine when I can get a whole car for 150 but I don't have a way to get it home from 40 miles away. But atleast I have the crappy job I do and someting to work on.....

Web camshafts can make you a set of cams for it. Keep the cams MILD, Web grind 294 will work well. You will need to send them a core set for them to hardweld and grind

As everyone has told you the basic specs are the same to a 4AGE. To bump compression, you might want to go with a set of 4AGE pistons. From memory, the 4AF uses 20mm wrist pins so you will need to get pistons from a 4AGE with 20mm wrist pins

The cylinder head on the early 4AF is LOUSY. By the end of AF production, there was a very decent head... far superior to the earlier ones.

Getting a 91 corolla efi car for parts I hope. Better head? Going to get the thing going and build the box of parts and other block into something when time and money permits. Got an idea earlier though....this 22r adapter and a holley from a chevette. The toyota side looks real close to the 4af gasket pad....heres a link though long...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Carburetor-Adapter-Toyota-22R-Holley-350-500-650-2bbl_W0QQitemZ270460217141QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3ef8af6735&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

For the race engine setup I am either going 7af block/4af head/carb / custom cams/ hi comp pistons/or finding a 4age that the people dont think is worth a gold mine. I would attempt a 3sfe swap seeing as how some celicas had them if dirt cheap. Whoa...theory time...if some celicas had either a 4afe or a 3sfe a 3sfe will fit in a corolla,and if a 5sfe will fit where a 3sfe was then a 5sfe will fit the corolla? Is this crazy? Hey,I seen a 4g63 in a dodge colt hatch and a hyundai excel in magazines...the colt was a GRM car I think. Is it possible to fit the 5sfe?

I think a lot of colts came with 4Gs in em from the factory.

whatever happened to 93celicaGT2? I dont recall seeing him lately... isnt this thread like his wet dream or something?

Anyway, all I know about the 4af engines is that the one in my 95 was EFI, had a pretty flat torque curve as analyzed by my butt dyno, could be flogged on a regular basis and still pull in ~30 mpg mixed, and really loved cam overlap and ignition advance with 93 octane fuel.

The only downer from that car was that it had a 2 piece crank pulley with a rubber spacer between the pieces - think wide rubber band - that was there to damp the vibrations from the crank. over time it got brittle and thinned out and allowed the outer part of the pulley (that carried the belts) to slide latterally on the hub and chew up belts as it went. Took me 40$ worth of belts to realize it was the pulley. No matter how tight I made the belts by yanking on the alternator, they were still gonna meet a grizzly death. New units from advance - o - zone were ~$150 and unobtainium. So, my solution was a few pan head sheet metal screws through the outer ring and into the hub - countersunk to allow the belts to ride smoothly. I even was able to keep my AC.

Man I loved what they did for me - TOYOTA (4cf jumps in the air and is frozen by still photography)