So, HF has their folding trailer available and on sale. I could use a trailer, but would like ot be able to tow just tires and toolbox to the track (behind a Miata) more often than I would want to tow it behind my pickup. Of course, for the Miata, I don't need to tow an eight foot trailer. I'm thinking that it wouldn't tow so nice with the wheel at the very back (I can't tell which way it folds, ie: if htis is even possible). So, bite the bullet and just buy two trailers, or use this folded?
No, too much tongue weight.
yes, I know this isn't what you're asking really. But you could offset the back-mounted tires by adding a boxed 2-3' extension behind the tires and then carrying your track tires back there to reduce tongue weight/balance it out.
Then again, why do you need a folding trailer? The small non-folding ones are pretty damn cheap and tuck away pretty easily under a deck, or wherever. Are you that strapped for space? If you don't have any boxes attached to them, you can stand them vertical in a garage against the wall and they don't take up much space.
btw, tongue weight on mine with tires and gear loaded is about 50lbs tops.
mistanfo wrote: So, HF has their folding trailer available and on sale. I could use a trailer, but would like ot be able to tow just tires and toolbox to the track (behind a Miata) more often than I would want to tow it behind my pickup. Of course, for the Miata, I don't need to tow an eight foot trailer. I'm thinking that it wouldn't tow so nice with the wheel at the very back (I can't tell which way it folds, ie: if htis is even possible). So, bite the bullet and just buy two trailers, or use this folded?
On larger trailers, tongue weight is a huge deal. On little tiny trailers, we're talking the difference between 25 lbs and 30 lbs on the tongue.
Really short axle distances on trailers are a real pain on the highway. They don't sway, they shake. Just like a short wheel base car, small inputs from bumps, turns, wind, etc, have much larger effects on the angle of the rotation.
For that reason, many of the teeny little trailers out there put the axle clear at the back. Don't worry about tongue weight. Tongue weight is very important once you get into the 3000-lb range, but for a little 400 lb rig like that, don't sweat it.
I agree with Curtis. Tongue weight is negligible with these tiny trailers and a set of tires and some tools on it. A very short trailer will drive BETTER with the wheels at the back. Really, almost all trailers would go straight better with the wheels at the back, but on longer trailers tongue weight is a huge issue and the way the trailer follows the tow vehicle through a turn is also much more important. In your case it really doesnt matter.
I'll add that with my setup I cruise at 70-80 and have felt/observed no ill handling on mine. I do have one leaf removed from the springs to reduce bouncing since I don't carry a load anywhere near the rated capacity.
Buy the small one now, use it as is, when you need it to be longer make new side rails and bolt it back together with the current side rails as front and rear?
New side rails would likely be more than the cost of the trailer (sadly). Hoping to do this once and done. Folding is somewhat necessitated by the HOA. I hate it, but the rent is cheap, so I can't complain too loudly. And they did shut up about lots of things when I pointed out that the same people that were complaining (board members) were guilty of the exact same infractions :)
Harbor freight does have a few micro trailers in the size you mention. 42708 for example.
I bought a 5x8 with 15" tires and a 1500# axle when faced with this same debate. I was towing it with an Accord, but even with tools and an engine on it, it towed great. Tongue weight was maybe 125-150lb. I bought a class 1 receiver hitch kit from u-haul.
Sounds like your living situation makes this tough, so any of the little trailers ought to get it done. Leave room for a spare tire.
I've had the HF folding 4x8 trailer for over a year now. It was real handy when we lived in Columbus with the 1 car garage since we don't have a truck, and didn't have any friends close we could bum one from when needed.
I sanded and painted all of the frame pieces Rustoleum Hammered Black before I assembled it, who want's a red trailer?
If you only use the front half of the trailer the axle center line will actually be behind the trailer deck, and likely in the way for loading stuff from the rear. The axle is located approximately 12" behind where the deck folds.
Here's a picture of mine folded up before I put the deck on it:
Here it is picking up the 3/4" plywood deck material:
For anyone interested, don't use 3/4" plywood for the deck if you want it to fold properly, the directions spec. 3/4" but it's too thick to be able to fold the trailer up for storage and have the two deck halves close flush against each other. If I had it to do over again I'd try 5/8" plywood. Additionally don't use carriage bolts to secure the deck to the trailer, while carriage bolts have a low smooth head profile like you'd want for a trailer, they will obstruct the ability to fold the trailer for storage because the bolt heads from each half of the deck contact each other when folded. I wound up with some flat head socket head bolts after I discovered the issue with the carriage bolts, gotta love doing the same thing twice.
Trailer in use:
Thanks for the pics, that tells me a lot. Oh, and nice double tap to the head if I am interpreting the top picture correctly 
Another option if you can't make a trailer work: I was able to get four tires, jack, tools, cooler, helmet, and misc stuff with me when taking my Miata autocrossing. This could work for you if you aren't carrying too much extra stuff. Only downside to this was an insane amount of wind buffeting at highway speeds.
mistanfo wrote: Thanks for the pics, that tells me a lot. Oh, and nice double tap to the head if I am interpreting the top picture correctly
Happy to help, if you think you might like/need a specific picture of something let me know, those are just what I had on my phone.
Also the 2 x 1" caster that come with it for rolling it around when folded up SUCK!!! I broke a wheel/caster in a concrete seam in the floor of my old garage, like literally broke the polyurethane or whatever they're made of wheel in two. I picked up some 3 x 1.5" roller bearing swivel casters from Surplus Center to replace them. The 3" caster is slightly too big though and when swiveling it interferes with the little pad the trailer pivots on when raising or lowering it from vertical to horizontal. Trimming 1/2" or so from the pad should fix it, I just haven't bothered yet.
[thread hijack/] Those targets actually belong to SWMBO, I attempted to toss them once and was threatened with bodily harm, so we still have them. They're from a few years ago when she went to the range with her dad to sight in the new scope on his AR-15.
One of my favorite pics of her:
[/hijack]
In reply to irish44j:
How long is the tongue on your trailer? I'm thinking of picking up a trailer for Rallycross and scooter racing. It's definitely big enough to haul my rallyx gear, but I need an overall length of about 6 feet to run a scooter up on the trailer.
I'll go measure it in a bit. I actually extended the platform forward with some angle iron welded on to gain some extra space for the smaller box.
Yavuz wrote: Another option if you can't make a trailer work: I was able to get four tires, jack, tools, cooler, helmet, and misc stuff with me when taking my Miata autocrossing. This could work for you if you aren't carrying too much extra stuff. Only downside to this was an insane amount of wind buffeting at highway speeds.
Why haven't I thought of loading tires this way? 
I put one in the trunk, 2 in the front seat and fold down the top (soft top only, no hardtop...yet) and lay the 4th on the deck and secure to a seat back. Now have an M2 Harddog Hardcore roll bar installed and was going to tie the 4th tire to the roll bar. Although this does obstruct rear mirror, still have side mirrors so no big deal. Will have to try this next time. Thanks!
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