Triumph Engine/Trans value?

Anybody have a feel for what a 1973 Triumph engine and manual transmission is worth? Buyer can hear it run before I yank to to make a V8 monster out of this thing (Can you say, "2011 Challenge?").

Thanks,

Paul

What triumph? Spit? TR6? Herald, dolomite? Stag? Offhand $500 for engine, $100 for trans unless laycock overdrive, then more like $650 for trans

In reply to pasleb: Specifics? TR6, GT6, Spitfire 1296cc? Running, frozen, locked, ran in last month, two, year? Ditto transmission.

Engine is from a Spitfire. 1500. It runs and is still in the car, so buyer can hear it run.

If the trans is not OD it isn't worth a lot. The engine is variable depending on how many miles it has on it. But, unless you have a receipt in hand saying it was done, replace the thrust washers and bearings before you install it. Also, it would try to hook up a pressure gauage and check the oil pressure. The 1500 is probably the most unloved Triumph engine.

A 1973 Spitfire 1500cc engine, complete, and a matching transmission. Assuming the engine's OK, (what's the mileage, compression?) there are a couple of examples I can give you for what they've been selling for. Over the last couple of weeks there have been two 1500cc engines, long blocks, for sale on ebay. One would not turn over, and bidding started at $1.00. It didn't sell. And it was in your neck of the woods of Ohio. The second one, again a long block, had the head off of it, did turn over, and the seller said he took the head off to replace a blown head gasket and never put the engine together again. The bidding started at $100. It, too, didn't sell. No bids.

Back in Jan, there was one with the head, distributor, water pump...complete except for the alternator that sold for $250. It, however, was a '77. Currently there is a '79-80 for sale with a starting price of $199, and no bids after a couple of days. It, however, doesn't turn over completely. But it does rotate then hits a stop. These engines have thrust bearings that are known for falling out and stopping the rotation or severely inhibiting the rotation of the engines. Worst case, they ruin the block and crankshaft. You can measure their condition with crankshaft end play with a dial gauge against the crankpulley So, what's yours worth? Complete, running, with everything on it. I'd say between $250 and $300--with acceptable compression and oil pressure. You could ask more, and see what happens. It all depends on how quickly you want it gone. You could sell it as a long block and part out the rest. Your call. The transmission is a bit of a wild card. Can it be shifted up and down the gears? Synchros OK, or does it graunch going into second? If all is OK ( and even though it's a a '73, so there is going to be wear). I'd estimate about $100 to $150. If it's an overdrive transmission (there should be an electric slide switch on the shift knob) then it's a different story. They are worth more, a lot more-- provided the electric overdrive works. Add $75 for overdrive. There's one more factor (sorry for the length of this), what model 1500 is it? A federal version or a CA version. The compression ratios and model of carb are different. That can be determined by the block number. It's on the block, driver's side, aft, where the block and the head bolt together. Let me know the number/letters, and I can tell you what you have. Full disclosure: If you hven't figured out by now, yes, I'm interested in the engine. You're a bit of a haul from CT to pick it up.(Rent a pickup truck and all that) But, first, get the block number to see what you have. And how many miles are on it. Not interested in the transmission. A year ago, the engine would have been worth $400 all day long.. But, times have changed. If you want I can document the above prices.

And I expect others to chime in on the prices I've come up with. Check the one on ebay. And ask around. That's the best I can do, from experience and tracking them over the past year. So, about $250 to $300 for the engine, and the transmission: non-overdrive $150; overdrive, $250+ . Everything depends on condition. Hope I've been of help. One Last Thing, any badges on the car that say Mark Iv or Mark III? British Leyland played a bit of "raid the parts bin" over the years. I've seen a factory-installed 1296cc in a '74; and a GT6's rear suspesnion on a bone-stock Spitfire. Both are wrong. That's why the block number is so important. Let me know what you've got. --Bob

Blah, eBay pricing is garbage on large objects like that cause no one likes paying $100 to ship a junk $100 engine when they can CL it local, using craiglook using your zip + 250 mile radius and see who's selling what, if anything, then call the seller after the add expires or is removed, ask how much it went for, you'd be suprised how much info you can gleen from the local market this way

$50 per ton.

In reply to triumph5: Bob, Thanks for all the information. I will run the compression test, put an oil pressure gauge on the engine, get the numbers off the block and put a dial indicator on the crank end for thrust bearing wear indicator and get back to you. I have to read the odo, but believe it is 80,000 miles. I will get back to the shop Friday evening to get the info. Paul