dherr
dherr Reader
2/11/18 4:35 p.m.

Okay so I now have the exhaust in the engine compartment but have some issues with clearance of the body, engine, steering, etc... So here is my idea..... The radius of a 2.5  90 degree bend is still too long to fit, I really need to do a right angle right off the turbo housing and then run my downpipe and  mate with the exhaust. So my plan is to weld up a square box of stainless Steel to the v-band flange and then run my 2.5 pipe at a right angle (heading towards the wheels and then down to the exhaust, bypassing the steering and everything else. If I build the box of a 3" square tube and then weld the downpipe to it,  it wil not flow as well as a nice rounded tube, but does anyone see any real issues here? See below for what it looks like. As you can see, if I built the box off the v-band flange and then out towards the drivers fender, it keeps the exhaust from going past the transmission flange, which is where the body starts. Thoughts??? 

Knurled.
Knurled. MegaDork
2/11/18 4:52 p.m.

There used to be banjo type right angle turbine outlets available that supposedly flowed almost as well as a straight piece of tubing.

dherr
dherr Reader
2/11/18 5:01 p.m.

Basically the v-band would dump into the box and then the downpipe would come out the side and run down to my exhaust

dherr
dherr Reader
2/11/18 5:09 p.m.

My other option is to weld a hard 90 degree , so instead of an nice flowing curve, it would be restrictive, but would it be preferable to dump into a larger chamber and then flow down, or does it not really matter as both are going to be more restrictive than a nice curving bend. The turbo housing outlet is small (2") so I wanted the dump pipe to be larger and then go down to the 2" exhaust. Keep in mind this is a 1.8 and won't likely see more than 10-12 pounds of boost.

Brotus7
Brotus7 HalfDork
2/11/18 5:15 p.m.

I think you want to ditch the V band and make your own downpipe bell.  This is what I did on my 7 replica (also Miata engine, but TD04 from a WRX).  I don't have any great pictures at the moment, but if you squint:

 

The footbox on the 7 is right behind the turbo, so it needed to make as pretty sharp turn.  I think it ought to flow just fine.  I'll finish my beer then brave the cold for a better picture.

dherr
dherr Reader
2/11/18 5:23 p.m.

My other option is to weld a hard 90 degree , so instead of an nice flowing curve, it would be restrictive, but would it be preferable to dump into a larger chamber and then flow down, or does it not really matter as both are going to be more restrictive than a nice curving bend. The turbo housing outlet is small (2") so I wanted the dump pipe to be larger and then go down to the 2" exhaust. Keep in mind this is a 1.8 and won't likely see more than 10-12 pounds of boost.

dherr
dherr Reader
2/11/18 5:26 p.m.

No that is why I ask the GRM crowd, There is no real reason that I can't just remove the vband turbo endplate and cut off the V-band and weld on a downpipe heading where I need to go. Please do finish your beer and send me a picture, but that is a great idea if I am thinking that I understand where you are going with this.

Brotus7
Brotus7 HalfDork
2/11/18 5:31 p.m.

Beer finished.  Cold braved.  Picture obtained.  Ignore the hamfisted stud...

I started with a 3" stainless J-bend from Summit.  You can see that the downpipe doesn't enter exactly perpendicular to the turbo flange, but the transition is pretty smooth.

dherr
dherr Reader
2/11/18 5:42 p.m.

Yes, I can do that :-)

Thanks, solves my problem. I owe you another beer!

JoeTR6
JoeTR6 HalfDork
2/12/18 8:16 a.m.

That's a nice solution.  Way to go, Brotus7.  It should be better than the box idea.

dherr
dherr Reader
2/12/18 1:12 p.m.

Yes, funny how these things work, I kept on thinking I had to start from the V-Band flange when, it it is not necessary and gains me back the 2 inches I needed. I ordered a 3mm thick 2.5  90 degree bend and will cut off the vband and weld it directly to the plate. 

 

kb58
kb58 SuperDork
2/12/18 3:48 p.m.

I've seen turbine engines which are used "in reverse", where the exhaust turns through a tight 90 degrees, then though another gradual 90 degrees. The key is to feed the exhaust into a larger spherical volume, which trades velocity for pressure, then feeding that volume in the direction you want to go. 

Basically, if you added a softball-sized volume right at that sharpest part of that turn, it would work better*.

*"Better" is some amount that's probably really hard to calculate.

MrJoshua
MrJoshua UltimaDork
2/12/18 6:36 p.m.

If you can, oval it and enlarge the opening enough to expose the wastegate.

GVX19
GVX19 Reader
2/12/18 7:26 p.m.

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