It's a dust seal that protects the actual seal from dust, so while not immediately life threatening I wouldn't expect the caliper to last forever.
You need a tub of wheel bearing grease, a lot of paper towels, and some tight fitting rubber gloves if you don't want to be cleaning grease off your hands. Put a good size glob in the palm of your hand and work it into one side of the bearing until it comes out the other, then scrape the remainder of the glob into the hub before dropping the bearing in. If you go to youtube or whatever and put in "how to pack wheel bearings" you should get plenty of good stuff, trailers are done exactly the same as cars.
You set the play by bringing the nut down fairly snug with a wrench while turning the hub (something like 30 ft/lbs) to ensure that the outer bearing races are fully seated into the hub, then back it off loose, then either use a dial indicator to set it however the service manual says to set it, or do what most people do and just bring it in finger tight and put the cotter pin in (or tighten the screw in the split nut if that's what you have). You want nearly zero play, but no preload, the spec is usually something like 0.001-.002"
I'd recommend asking here and/or researching online how to do every job you do until you learn it. Running without grease would eventually destroy the bearing. Perhaps inconveniently or perhaps catastrophically and I'd hate to see you make a small mistake that doesn't get caught that causes big problems.
But big kudos for jumping right in! That rust on the bolts in the hubs looks pretty threatening. Soak (as mentioned) and use heat to help break loose.
i only cleaned the grease on the bearing itself, still plenty of grease in the orifice. is that better or is there some special procedure for the bearings?
not brand new to working cars, only the rear diff work, non-pressed in bearings and carb will be new to me... so far. I'm tempted to get an LSD for the thing but it'd ruin the cruising deal i have with the wife. I'm sure if i ask nicely i'll get away with it, but thats not the deal i have with her. poo :/
What do you mean by orifice? The inside of the hub? You have to have grease worked in between the inner race of the bearing and the cage holding the rollers so the rollers have plenty of lubrication, grease doesn't flow very well. If you've gone to the trouble of pulling the hub off it's generally a good "while you're in there" thing to pop out the grease seal (which traps the inner bearing), thoroughly clean the bearings and inside of the hub, and if everything looks good, repack with grease and pound in a new grease seal. If see any scoring or pitting on the bearings they need to be replaced, including the two outer races that are pressed into the hub.
yes, inside the hub, couldn't think of a better word for it.. i didn't clean it off with brake clean, just wiped off the parts that had dirt particles on the outside of the 'cage.' you can see a couple pieces of dirt in the picture provided. not trying to be argumentative just trying to learn about these oldskool bearings.
here is a new wheel bearing set (dont see many similarities since it shows 2 bearings and all i see are one in my car...) im assuming the black part is the grease seal? Might be hard to follow but there was a metal plate right behind the castle nut and cotter pin that had the illusion of trapping the grease in, i guess the dust cap could do the same as well. the plate might be there to keep everything straight.
anywho update on the hunt for parts, emailed two companies about replacing the cracked windshield and getting that hole in the frame welded up. trying to figure out if i should pay cash to get this thing road legal or use my card while its got 0% interest.
plus money from the drum remover and the two other big fixes.
oldtin
PowerDork
3/12/17 5:12 p.m.
Your car will have two bearings per hub. One for each side of the hub. It may still be sitting on the stub axle if you don't see it on the hub. The washer and and a grease/dust cap will hold the grease in on the outer side. You'll also have a bearing and the grease seal on the inside (suspension side) of the hub. I wouldn't worry about the diff at this point. Start with safe and reliable - perhaps get a feel for it then you have a solid baseline for prioritizing upgrades and mods.
You might be able to find a limited slip for that differential over there, but you won't like the price.
The difference between low and high performance in the 1.1L engines was single or dual carb. I'm not sure if the 1.2 was the same.
That's a complete kit for one front wheel (both bearings and races, new grease seal, grease). There is an inner and outer bearing in each hub, like I said the inner one is kinda held in by the grease seal, you install the seal last.
The metal plate ("washer") under the nut is mostly there to do typical washer things as far as I know, the dust cap holds the grease in. That reminds me of another trick people use to set the bearing play, the washer will likely be a bit loose on the axle stub, so with the nut loose you can move it around with a small screwdriver, the bearing is adjusted correctly when the washer just barely starts to drag.
well now i know about as much as i can on those old bearings.
time to price out the rest of the stuff to do.
Don't know if this warrants a new thread or not but I found some 70's French booty mag tear outs in the boot of the car. I thought it was hilarious how they were tucked away and well hidden, figured it was worth sharing.
If you DON'T want to see adult entertainment DO NOT follow the link below.
https://imgur.com/gallery/YV6M5
wheel bearing just fell out. the bearing part is still together and fine. is it ok to keep using? yes I cleaned the crap outta it before I put it back in. no dirt in there :b
