Wetsanding and buffing single stage paint

Dusterbd13-michael said:

In reply to frenchyd :

Would it make sense to untape the edges when i get to 1000  or 1500 grit and then sand them? Less material removed than the 800 im using now, so less chance of blow through, and still some surface levelling to match the rest of the panel. Or am i overthinking it again?

I can’t speak for you. I’m sure everyone has their own touch/ feel for how heavy they sand. I  believe in complete sanding with one grit before I move on to the next grit. Since each finer grit smooths the scratches  from the previous grit.  I’d worry that I failed to completely get every fish eye, dimple, and flaw with the first sanding and then finer and finer grits fail to remove them as well. 

Now on ridges and body lines  you do have to sort of sand those but by their nature you use a very light hand and really feather light on the actual tip of the ridge.  

When it comes to rubbing compounds and waxing, yes to using a buffer, absolutely don’t use it anywhere near the ridges and body lines.

those all need a light hand.   

Trunklid, sail panel, and drivers quarter done to 800 grit. The razor blade trick is tricky to do. Glad i have some leftover paint for touchoup.

Dusterbd13-michael said:

Trunklid, sail panel, and drivers quarter done to 800 grit. The razor blade trick is tricky to do. Glad i have some leftover paint for touchoup.

Nib file, cheap at local auto paint store. Great for people who don't paint regularly. I use a razor blade but recommend the file for most folks. Be careful sanding sags and drips because you can easily sand through the paint on the sides rocking over the lump. I only use tape on the edges and sharp body lines during machine buffing to avoid burn through.

This is a lot like work. But, drivers side (except for the hood) it done with 800 grit! When wet, it has a VERY clear reflection of the shop. Im happy.

you can add a pad and 800 grit paper to the porter cable da dad loaned me. This should improve my shoulder health immensely. Up to now ive done it all by hand.....

800 grit is done.

Next is 1000 grit.

Should 1000 be done wet or dry? And, since theres no shine as an indicator, how can i tell what/where needs more work? My fingers aren't sensitive enough to tell a difference in the paper, let alone the surface.

Wet

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :

Be systematic, work steadily one panel at a time. You’re right it’s very hard to feel it although once you’ve washed a panel off you’ll see it’s slightly  shinier. 

I usually stopped at about 3500 grit although I have gone all the way to 6000 before buffing compound 

Everything wet. It keeps the paper from clogging and gouging the paint.

answers that question! Theres a different "feel" with the sandpaper between 800 grit surface and 1000 grit surface to know where ive been and not. Interesting!

1500 and 2000 steps done on the hood. It somehow looks worse than the 1000 grit surface. Is this normal, or am i doing something wrong?

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :

Forget the razor blade. Bit of spot putty and a sanding block will do the job. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mn6nPky0HGs

In reply to NOHOME :

I sorted the drips and runs and sags earlier this week. But will tuck that method for next time when there ISN'T 1/16 of paint thickness.

Am i doing this right?

It looks like there are some fine scratches, what are you using for polish?

Turtle wax rubbing compound  

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :

Is that red or white?  The white one used to be finer so it would take out the scratches from the red.  

Green can, coarse compound 

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :

Coarse compound is still a corrector, so it’s not gonna produce a mirror finish yet.  Polishing Compound is the next step, followed by what’s probably just called “polish”.  You’re on the right path but you’re not at the end yet.

Cool. Kinda what i thought, but I'm having a tough time correlating what it looks like on the internet to what it looks like in the flesh.

So i will finish the car with coarse compound, then polishing compound, then the scratch and swirl remover, then glaze, then wax. Right?

Is glaze = polish?

i haven’t done new paint, but correcting old paint usually goes

• coarse
• medium
• fine
• polishing compound
• wash with soap and water
• polish
• wax

sometimes you can skip coarse and/or medium if the paint isn’t too oxidized.  But you’re fighting irregular, not oxidized, so it may be a little different..

Highly Recommend 3M Perfect it kit

Single Stage as well

First photo had the old crappy top I'd left for splatter

3m stuff WORKS 

When I was younger, I did the 12-step program of paint restoration.  It looked freaking gorgeous for three days. Now that I have one foot in the grave and the other on a roller skate, I think I washed my vehicles once so far this year.

Excellent work!

Note any good local physiotherapists.

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :

That looks great