I got an RX8 diff available.... just saying....
I got an RX8 diff available.... just saying....
In reply to WOW Really Paul?:
Thanks Paul, I'll check into that for Draft 2.
This reminds me of my blissful ignorance of rwd rear ends. Currently researching the life expectancy of a stock rx8 rear end that is being powered by an 02 corvette ls1.... Me thinks not long once the hooning begins...
The Getrag under the Solstice and Camaro is pretty compact and tough, though I don't know how it compares in weight with the Ford 8.8
R160 in my '01 Impreza RS that got totalled last fall was a 4.10 ratio. Maybe 4.11, and IIRC the R160 can take upto maybe 250 ft-lbs before issues, the 180 and 200 take more.
7.5" cadillac/sky/solstice getrag IRS that's been used in every kind of irs swap, since ever.
WOW Really Paul? wrote: In reply to JBasham: Simple answer is to find a z3 Torsen equipped rear end if you never want to have to rebuild it.
Why would you want a Torsen over a properly setup clutch diff?
My buddy had a 500hp LS1 in his E30 race car, even doing things like accidentally dropping a wheel off track on exit in 4th gear, full throttle to the point when he came back on track on his 285/30/18 slicks, it destroyed the axle.
The diff is still fine. Years after said incident.
z31maniac wrote: Why would you want a Torsen over a properly setup clutch diff?
It depends on driver preference and the car. If the car is likely to ever lift a drive wheel off the ground or come close to it (heavily unweighted), a good clutch diff will probably put down more power than a Torsen. Otherwise, it's a matter of what you like the feel of and work best with.
As a data point, a Mk8 aluminum 8.8 housing with a True Trac diff weighs 68 pounds. A Ford Trac-Lok diff should weigh a bit less.
The bare housing by itself (with rear cover) weighs around 21 pounds.
Flight Service wrote: Ford 7.5" but that isn't IRS.
60-70% of MN10 Thunderbirds had 7.5" diffs. I do not know how compatible they are.
How about Toyota Supra 8" rears? Not especially light, but the 4x4 community has ensured that you can get many many different ratios.
84FSP wrote: This reminds me of my blissful ignorance of rwd rear ends. Currently researching the life expectancy of a stock rx8 rear end that is being powered by an 02 corvette ls1.... Me thinks not long once the hooning begins...
If it's the same case as the FD, about 700hp on slicks is when they start to break...
Flight Service wrote: The Subaru/Nissan diffs have Looooooong snouts, it wouldn't surprise me if you didn't couple them directly to the tail-shaft of a MG Midgets transmission.
True, but I'm looking at them compared to Spitfire IRS diffs and they aren't much longer than those.
rslifkin wrote:z31maniac wrote: Why would you want a Torsen over a properly setup clutch diff?It depends on driver preference and the car. If the car is likely to ever lift a drive wheel off the ground or come close to it (heavily unweighted), a good clutch diff will probably put down more power than a Torsen. Otherwise, it's a matter of what you like the feel of and work best with.
The "fast guys" have all shown a properly setup clutch diff is universally faster than a Torsen. By a noticeable margin.
Someone mentioned the Dana 44 but did it ever come without U-joint axles? Is there any reason not to be a CV snob?
RossD wrote: Someone mentioned the Dana 44 but did it ever come without U-joint axles? Is there any reason not to be a CV snob?
u joints work fine on corvettes.
the r180 in my datsun held up to andrew nelson launching it with a v8 and i'm doing the same thing, still holding up. on slicks.
RossD wrote: Someone mentioned the Dana 44 but did it ever come without U-joint axles? Is there any reason not to be a CV snob?
I think Vipers had CV joints.
For your purposes, no there is no point to being a CV snob. Just need to be mindful that you will need to accomodate plunge travel since U-joints don't plunge the way CV joints can. (Which is why the Corvette kept right on using them until the C5, the halfshaft was also the upper suspension link, can't use CVs with that setup) Datsuns with U joints had slip splines in the axles that would clunk so they had you put lead paste on the splines. Try that today!
The old Jag IRS has u-joints for the same reason of the axle shafts being the upper suspension link.
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