99 Silverado 1500 (aka LS donor) that rusted through a brake line. I have a feeling this is going to turn into a "while you're in there" project since it has 283k miles. If I have the brake lines removed and the fluid drains out and empties the master cylinder reservoir, do I need to do anything other than refill and expect a lot of bleeding process? Is there anything special with the ABS units and bleeding on these? Off to do an internet search but the first question is the real one. I've never done more than swap a caliper where there was minimal fluid loss.
Air in the ABS pump is generally a bad thing. Some cars have a way to actuate the pump remotely, but even so I'd try to avoid letting air in if I could help it. A little bit can usually be purged with several ABS-inducing stops, but that technique could be quite high on the Brown Pants Index with the amount of air you're talking about. A pressure bleeder is very helpful in situations like this.
A tech 2 or Snap On scanner can cycle the abs to get it to bleed, I have also heard of guys using spinning one wheel up in the air while having the key on and brakes applied to get the ABS to cycle.
Never had an issue in the H2 or the Sierra Denali when I replaced the rear lines. Just bleed them well and you should be good to go.
You didn't introduce any air into any of the ABS passages that won't come out with a standard bleed. Replace hard lines, open bleed screws, and let the system gravity bleed until you've got fresh fluid coming out of each corner. Done.
JBasham
HalfDork
3/12/18 10:50 a.m.
On some cars, if you jumper the power feed at the ABS pump relay, it cycles the pump.
