What to do with a mostly dead Unicorn Jaag

It's been Tiger Moms daily for a bit over 3 years and last month (without warning) it spun a bearing and developed terminal/catastrophic rod knock.

2002 X-Type 3.0 5-speed.  Beautiful black, rust free, recently serviced, newer brakes and suspension, good Continental tires.  115,000 miles.

Unfortunately it's a 24 book hour job to replace the motor so the job would be around $4000 to replace it with a junkyard lump.  It seems to be a bit out of my comfort zone for a DD so I'm not keen on tackling the job myself.

So what to do with it?  What's it worth?  Part it out?  Anyone here interested in a project?

Someone here must need this.

Failing that, is there an X-Type forum, or Jag forum that includes them? Someone's got the familiarity to make this a no-brainer.

Sorry to hear about your DD implosion; hope you're able to get this part sorted and replace it with a minimum of fuss...

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/

Back in the day, if it just had one bad bearing we used to grind a rod journal in the car. Remove the oil pan and starter, insert the special motor and adapter to turn the crank at a slow RPM, then hang the grinder off the rod and turn it in the car. New undersize bearing and off she goes.

We used to do this especially when someone was traveling and just needed to get where they were going, but it was a good repair. I've heard of them lasting as long as the rest of the motor did. I would go ahead and replace the rest of the rod bearings of course.

I don't know if anyone still does this

In reply to MiniDave :

You ARE dating yourself! 

Barra swap since it was probably a Ford then.

Under $500 for a used engine with 100k or less and three weekends (working slow).

Seems like a viable project for someone, depending on the vehicle cost. 

True love?

No. He said "Tu blave," which means to bluff.

KyAllroad said:

It's been Tiger Moms daily for a bit over 3 years and last month (without warning) it spun a bearing and developed terminal/catastrophic rod knock.

2002 X-Type 3.0 5-speed.  Beautiful black, rust free, recently serviced, newer brakes and suspension, good Continental tires.  115,000 miles.

 

Unfortunately it's a 24 book hour job to replace the motor so the job would be around $4000 to replace it with a junkyard lump.  It seems to be a bit out of my comfort zone for a DD so I'm not keen on tackling the job myself.

So what to do with it?  What's it worth?  Part it out?  Anyone here interested in a project?

Go on the internet  to car-parts.com list your car and ask for an engine. I'd be extremely surprised if they were expensive. In fact my experience  has been domestic engines cost 2-4 times As much as Jaguars cost. They tend to be shockingly cheap.  
 Changing an engine is simple plug and  unplug. Bolt and unbolt.  If it takes a pro 24 hours I'll bet at least a third of that is padding for profit.  The absolute hardest part is figuring out how to get the plastic covers off. 
    If you still don't want to do it go around to the junkyard that sells you the motor and offer him $1000 to put it in for you. 

I might be interested, my type of project. 

In reply to chandler :

On car-part $400-ish for 98k to 120k engines.  

frenchyd said: Changing an engine is simple plug and  unplug. Bolt and unbolt.  If it takes a pro 24 hours I'll bet at least a third of that is padding for profit.  The absolute hardest part is figuring out how to get the plastic covers off.  If you still don't want to do it go around to the junkyard that sells you the motor and offer him $1000 to put it in for you. 

They don't pad the hours.  If the book says 24, it's 24.  They get their profit by charging $100/hr labor, but pay the tech $28/hr.  My guess is that this is one of those that comes out from the bottom.  That is, drop the entire subframe, which sometimes means disconnecting brake lines.  It the very least, it's exhaust, electrical, fuel, cooling, the works.  Anyone have an AllData subscription who could look it up?

Isn't the 3.0L just a Duratec?  I mean, it's a Ford Mondeo underneath.

If it weren't FWD, I'd be interested

In reply to Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) :

Being an X, it should be awd. 

In reply to Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) :

Duratec based but I think the Jag versions had VVT and other stuff that makes them more better than the Ford engines.

John Welsh said:

In reply to Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) :

Being an X, it should be awd. 

I'm pretty sure not all X-types were AWD.

Yeah, VVT and AWD.

Anyone who wants it can give me a call. 
eight59-6ninenine-eight343

For those who are interested I can text a ton of pictures so you know exactly what's up.   

I have always envisioned that motor with boost,

I have one under the bench waiting its turn.

KyAllroad said:

Yeah, VVT and AWD.

Anyone who wants it can give me a call. 
eight59-6ninenine-eight343

I sent a text, interested if the price is right

Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:

frenchyd said: Changing an engine is simple plug and  unplug. Bolt and unbolt.  If it takes a pro 24 hours I'll bet at least a third of that is padding for profit.  The absolute hardest part is figuring out how to get the plastic covers off.  If you still don't want to do it go around to the junkyard that sells you the motor and offer him $1000 to put it in for you. 

They don't pad the hours.  If the book says 24, it's 24.  They get their profit by charging $100/hr labor, but pay the tech $28/hr.  My guess is that this is one of those that comes out from the bottom.  That is, drop the entire subframe, which sometimes means disconnecting brake lines.  It the very least, it's exhaust, electrical, fuel, cooling, the works.  Anyone have an AllData subscription who could look it up?

Isn't the 3.0L just a Duratec?  I mean, it's a Ford Mondeo underneath.

Have you ever sat down with line mechanics?   Away from their boss and prying ears?  A race track is good for that.    
      Those flat rate manuals are written with solid mechanics but no prior training or exposure. Plus no short cuts, if the book calls for  putting a potato in the back seat, a potato is put in the back seat.  Prying something up to gain access isn't allowed. Nor is skipping steps 2&4  or using tricks to cut time.  
      The Saab Clutch was listed as an 8 hour job. Using rope it could be turned into a 45 minute job.  The Renault R4 clutch was. 22 hours.  It took me 26.  It's been done in an hour.  
  Guys in the junkyards normally beat flat rate 12 ways to Sunday making $20 an hour.  
    Beside like you say the mechanic earns $28  of the $100+   So at $1000 for the job  he's coming out way ahead.  
 In the trade it's called curbing the job.  

MiniDave said:

I don't know if anyone still does this

Have definitely done this to a drag engine, in the pits. Usually at night between qualifying and an event. Happens often enough that you create strategies like grinding your crank .001-2" smaller just in case you can't get it back to size and still have the option of a .001" extra clearance bearing. As long as you have oil pressure you can make it through a day. Probably a lot more days if you just drive it like normal.

KyAllroad said:

For those who are interested I can text a ton of pictures so you know exactly what's up.   

Looks like a sports package car! 2.5 or 3.0? 

They used the exact same 3.0 in the Lincoln LS.

How closely related is it to the Duratec 3.0?


 

frenchyd said:

Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:

frenchyd said: Changing an engine is simple plug and  unplug. Bolt and unbolt.  If it takes a pro 24 hours I'll bet at least a third of that is padding for profit.  The absolute hardest part is figuring out how to get the plastic covers off.  If you still don't want to do it go around to the junkyard that sells you the motor and offer him $1000 to put it in for you. 

They don't pad the hours.  If the book says 24, it's 24.  They get their profit by charging $100/hr labor, but pay the tech $28/hr.  My guess is that this is one of those that comes out from the bottom.  That is, drop the entire subframe, which sometimes means disconnecting brake lines.  It the very least, it's exhaust, electrical, fuel, cooling, the works.  Anyone have an AllData subscription who could look it up?

Isn't the 3.0L just a Duratec?  I mean, it's a Ford Mondeo underneath.

Have you ever sat down with line mechanics?   Away from their boss and prying ears?  A race track is good for that.    
      Those flat rate manuals are written with solid mechanics but no prior training or exposure. Plus no short cuts, if the book calls for  putting a potato in the back seat, a potato is put in the back seat.  Prying something up to gain access isn't allowed. Nor is skipping steps 2&4  or using tricks to cut time.  
      The Saab Clutch was listed as an 8 hour job. Using rope it could be turned into a 45 minute job.  The Renault R4 clutch was. 22 hours.  It took me 26.  It's been done in an hour.  
  Guys in the junkyards normally beat flat rate 12 ways to Sunday making $20 an hour.  
    Beside like you say the mechanic earns $28  of the $100+   So at $1000 for the job  he's coming out way ahead.  
 In the trade it's called curbing the job.  

   
    

I ran a chain of 13 transmission, repair, and body shops for 7 years, and another 5 years in hot rod and custom shops.  Pretty sure I have spoken to some techs and have been one myself.  It doesn't matter if the tech does a 24 hour book job in 8 hours, or if they do it in 36 hours.  They get paid 24 hours.  The book doesn't mean it will take everyone 24 hours, but it's an assigned number based on an average of the level of labor involved.  Period.  It might take KYAllroad 79 hours in his driveway with jackstands, and it might take 5 hours for a Jag tech who has done it 25 times with a lift and a well-equipped shop.  The point is, anything that is listed as a 24 hour job by the book means it's a pretty big dang job.