Harvey
Harvey SuperDork
10/19/18 10:38 p.m.

I’m looking at redoing the insulation on the floor and trans tunnel of the Vette because it has the annoying problem of the carpet and insulation falling down and exposing the metal of the tunnel, which is very hot. I sort of fixed it by pulling the carpet back up along with the insulation, but it could be better. They don’t seem to really have insulated the tunnel very much at all as the cubby used to get really hot before I put some reflective insulation under it. Now it just gets kind of hot.

The Dynaliner product seems to be what I would use, but I’m open to suggestions. I might do the doors with something like Dynamat as well depending on what is behind there.

NOHOME
NOHOME UltimaDork
10/20/18 5:51 a.m.

Dynamat is a  more of a marketing miracle than a NVH panacea as they claim.

 

Used as a vibration dampener where you locate a few tiles on a panel to stop a high frequency buzz, it will do that job. 

Not going to do much for heat abatement unless you place it under the car, with the foil facing the heat source, Even then it will only reflect infra red and do nothing for radiated heat.

Inside the car, your best bet is the felted mat stuff.  Look to your firewall mat for a good example of what the factory thinks is a good idea.

 

Pete

dculberson
dculberson UltimaDork
10/20/18 5:58 a.m.

In reply to NOHOME :

Dynaliner is different from Dynamat. I have no idea how effective it is but it’s sold as a thermal insulator. 

GRM had a project C5 FRC back in the day and they used an insulator over the tunnel. I can remember what it was but maybe the project archives here would have the articles?

STM317
STM317 SuperDork
10/20/18 8:17 a.m.

I want to try lizard skin at some point.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XdM71lPVZtg

pirate
pirate Reader
10/20/18 9:02 a.m.

There is a company named Thermo Tech that offers very high temp insulation. Not cheap but will handle temps to 1000 degrees. Pegasus Racing sells their products who are great people to talk to and ask questions. I’m sure the products are available from others also.

Curtis
Curtis UltimaDork
10/21/18 10:45 a.m.

I used RamMat before.  It is a cheaper copy of Dynamat.  Worked very well in my 74 Impala wagon.  Its primary purpose is sound, but it did pretty well with heat as well - probably because of the foil lining.

Jumper K Balls
Jumper K Balls PowerDork
10/21/18 12:19 p.m.

Dynaliner is a closed cell foam with an adhesive backing. I have used it in the 1/8" and 3/16" thickness and i know it goes up to half inch or so.  I didnt come away very impressed by it but i also hadnt driven the car beforehand as it was a total restoration.  

OEMs use small tiles of high density rubber and tar like substances in the center of panels to take out the ring of vibrating sheet metal then dense jute or other mats under carpets and dashboards to cut the volume.

I was always shocked at how much quieter my 63 Falcon was compared to the missus Kia and it was full of regular old fiberglass house insulation above the headliner and in door cavities.

The foil faced thin sheets of heat insulation that have adhesive backing are good in the engine bay with the foil facing the heat source. We do a lot of LBCs that way to keep the drivers feet cooler.

Harvey
Harvey SuperDork
10/21/18 7:55 p.m.

Yeah, the Dynamat thing I was thinking maybe do the doors with that for the sound, but the Dynaliner stuff is really what I was thinking about using.

So, while researching this I learned the actual difference between reflective and other types of insulation materials and I've figured out that I used the reflective stuff improperly. To reflect heat the reflective stuff needs an air gap between the heat source and the area you want to insulate. In my initial attempt to mitigate some of the heat issues I stupidly just threw some of the reflectix stuff up against the trans tunnel as a heat barrier and then threw the carpet over it when I would have been better off just getting a good conductive insulator. That said, it did actually minimize heat to some extent, but probably not nearly as much as it would have if I put it onto the tunnel plate itself above the exhaust pipes.

So, I'm thinking of a combination of things here. Possibly a waterproof reflective material attached to the bottom of the tunnel plate and then some sort of insulating material inside the cabin placed over the tunnel to replace or add to the various stuff in there.

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