Hi, guys.
I'm about to tuck into a '59 Triumph TR3 engine/trans that's been sitting out in the elements for a while. Assuming everything is corroded, I'm ordering some penetrating oil before getting started.
In the past, I've used BreakFree CLP and PB Blaster with pretty good results. What's the latest and greatest?
Shotgun?
Now with that out of the way... PB Blaster
If you're needing a lot of it 50/50 acetone & ATF in an oilcan. Wear gloves.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs&feature=emb_title
TL;DR Liquid Wrench, Seafoam Deep creep or CRC knocker loose. Whichever is most easily available and $/oz
Kroil
Casting/investment wax.
Heat bolt with a MAPP torch till water flash boils off the head. Touch wax to base and capillary action draws it down into the threads.
I've yet to have a bolt that stands up to that.
In reply to Mr_Asa :
Candle wax works too.
fatallightning said:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs&feature=emb_title
TL;DR Liquid Wrench, Seafoam Deep creep or CRC knocker loose. Whichever is most easily available and $/oz
Yeah, I've used them all and have never noticed a significant difference. I mostly use PB Blaster because it's easy to find around here.
spandak said:Kroil
It's funny, tons and tons of people recommend Kroil, even here from people who work in garages, but of all the side by side comparison tests I've seen it doesn't do anything.
In reply to Mr_Asa :
Have you spent any time working on Northern cars?
Real Northern cars like Cleveland, Detroit, Buffalo, etc.
Please support our friends at CRC. They make great stuff, that I use exclusively and they support this board, our video dept. the $2000 Challenge and our magazines. Trust me, more than ever, your support is important.
And in the rare times, their products do not work, fire is your friend, if you know how to use it carefully.
One more tip, spray your fasteners down two-three times over a 24 hour period and not just 30 seconds before you want them to come apart.
In reply to RevRico :
I would imagine most wax would, I just happen to have a decent amount of that stuff in a form that is easy to poke at a hot item and not burn myself with.
In reply to John Welsh :
Yup. They generally just snap heads off.
Also worked on heavy equipment that was designated for beach renewal. Similar story, but with some finagling you can sometimes salvage it just because heavy equipment has such large bolts.
there are also the induction bolt / nut heaters......
RevRico said:spandak said:Kroil
It's funny, tons and tons of people recommend Kroil, even here from people who work in garages, but of all the side by side comparison tests I've seen it doesn't do anything.
I'm from the desert so maybe my definition of rusty is different lol. Just the other week I couldn't budge a rusty nut on a piece of equipment I was working on. I covered it in kroil and the next day it came right off.
In fairness, I havent actually tried many other products.
In reply to spandak :
The Project Farm video, Kroil didn't do great as a penetrant. IIRC, it did do well in a different test where he tried products for antirust properties on new metal.
Acetylene, mixed with oxygen.
Streetwiseguy said:Acetylene, mixed with oxygen.
The blue wrench is hard to beat
My go-to in recent years has been CRC Freeze-Off. Seems to work better than PB Blaster (and smells much more pleasant). I also have WD-40 Rust Release here that I've been using this week (since I'm out of other stuff and don't want to go to the store) and it seems to work well - got some super-rusty bolts off exhaust headers just yesterday without shearing them, which was pretty amazing).
In reply to irish44j :
Are you trying to say PB Blaster doesn't smell good? Between that and Hoppes Number 9, my cologne collection is 100% rounded out!
If you got some deep pockets look at induction heaters. I've used one a few times friggin awesome
Tim Suddard said:Please support our friends at CRC. They make great stuff, that I use exclusively and they support this board, our video dept. the $2000 Challenge and our magazines. Trust me, more than ever, your support is important.
And in the rare times, their products do not work, fire is your friend, if you know how to use it carefully.
One more tip, spray your fasteners down two-three times over a 24 hour period and not just 30 seconds before you want them to come apart.
Maybe CRC could come in here and give some technical assistance towards this topic. Rusted bolt removal is very subjective due to the human attached to the end of the wrench and the human that applies the penetrant. Would CRC consider doing a how to of rusty bolt removal? Tricks and tips on both product application and making the wrench operator a bit smarter. Maybe a future YouTube Vid? Or if the Happy Hour Vid Chat thing takes off do it there. You get immediate real time feedback and questions can be asked as they come to mind (then again that may not be a good thing).
pilotbraden said:Streetwiseguy said:Acetylene, mixed with oxygen.
The blue wrench is heard to beat
We used to call it the master key too.
bigbrainonbrad said:In reply to irish44j :
Are you trying to say PB Blaster doesn't smell good? Between that and Hoppes Number 9, my cologne collection is 100% rounded out!
I've had TWO cans of PB leak out due to a slightly stuck nozzle. Do you have any idea how hard it is to get rid of the stench of 12 ounces of that crap?
I'll be ordering the CRC Freeze-Off based upon Irish's recommendation...
CRC or Seafoam Deep creep seem to work the best for me. Did a ton of research when I was removing the exhaust manifolds on my Sequoia. The sequoia had its frame replaced under recall which gives you an idea of how rusty some parts are.
What seams to work is spraying it daily coming up to the weekend, then heat it with MAP torch, rapidly cool it, heat it, rapidly cool it, then use an impact to brake the rust bond. I was hesitant on using the impact but it works well on rusty stuff.
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