Tim Suddard said:
Please support our friends at CRC.
So, would that be Freeze-Off, Knock'er Loose, or Knock'er Loose Plus?
Tim Suddard said:
One more tip, spray your fasteners down two-three times over a 24 hour period and not just 30 seconds before you want them to come apart.
Excellent advice: I always do that if I have time. Multiple soaks over a day or two before laying into it with a breaker bar or impact driver.
I spent several decades working on cars in the rust belt and my favorite rusty bolt loosener upper is the oxyacetylene torch. I occasionally use it in conjunction with some kind of spray (and the CRC stuff is as good or better than any) but it's hard to beat the hot wrench for speed and effectiveness.
Kingkong said:
CRC or Seafoam Deep creep seem to work the best for me. Did a ton of research when I was removing the exhaust manifolds on my Sequoia. The sequoia had its frame replaced under recall which gives you an idea of how rusty some parts are.
What seams to work is spraying it daily coming up to the weekend, then heat it with MAP torch, rapidly cool it, heat it, rapidly cool it, then use an impact to brake the rust bond. I was hesitant on using the impact but it works well on rusty stuff.
What'd you use to rapidly cool, just spray water?
In reply to fatallightning :
Kind of like the whole wax trick, they say if you spray your favorite rust loosener, it'll get sucked into the threads. But then you just burn it off so I dunno. Anything to get the two metals to rapidly cool can help break the rust bond. One time I used snow to rapidly cool it and it worked.
Spray PB Blaster liberally.
Turn on compressor and let it pump up to about 160 psi.
Grab propane torch and heat for several minutes.
Spray some WD-40 into intake fitting of impact gun.
Hook up air hose, set impact to max, and chatter away.
In reply to purplepeopleeater :
And good ventilation!
In reply to earlybroncoguy1 :
You mean Ugga Dugga away?
Mr_Asa said:
Casting/investment wax.
Heat bolt with a MAPP torch till water flash boils off the head. Touch wax to base and capillary action draws it down into the threads.
I've yet to have a bolt that stands up to that.
This times 1000. I skip the water part and take it to a dull glow, then wait for it to stop glowing. Too hot and you can ignite the paraffin...Not that it's a bad thing, but burning means not melting into the threads. I like to melt it in when it's hot enough to just barely smoke.
The extra heat also (I theorize) helps freeing up the threads.
I always keep a taper candle in my tool box
I've tried a bunch (PB, kroil, CRC etc.) and mostly found that using it the night (or a few hours) before, and using it with heat.
CRC's support of GRM makes the buying decision pretty simple though.
TGMF
HalfDork
4/19/20 8:35 a.m.
Depends on your location. Here in Michigan, working with what we consider a rusted fastener..... skip the toys and just grab the flame wrench.
Bolts less than a couple years old are coated with favorite penetrating oil and lots of uga duggas. I used to prefer GM heat riser penetrant....its a AC delco part number now...10-4020. Best stuff on out there. Now I dont work in a shop with it on hand, I just use Sea Foam Deep creep.
PB Blaster or WD-40 always seems to work for me. YMMV.