You don't need no stinking additive.
Waste of money.
You don't need no stinking additive.
Waste of money.
soooo, only slightly off topic...
would a water/meth injection setup do these new direct-injection engines any good?
I admit I don't use any fuel additives in my cars.
When I was at Watkins Glen last year I pulled up to the gas pump, pulled out the "Regular" gas hose and started filling the 924. One of the other guys running that weekend pulled up next to me in his newer Cayman or 911, looks at me with a look of shock on his face.
He then proceeds to ask, in all seriousness;" You aren't running Premium in your car?"
My response; " The compression isn't that high, so this works just fine for me"
He shakes his head, says see you on track and drives off.
Just thought I would share.
Mike Kirby
MINI owners (including me) have learned that a half bottle of Seafoam into the intake manifold and a half bottle in the gas tank every oil change helps to mitigate the carbon buildup. See the North American Motoring forums for details.
The base cooper is uses conventional indirect injection and does not suffer from carbon buildup. Use premium fuel, you shouldn't need any additional additives.
iceracer wrote: You don't need no stinking additive.
Not when your diesel fuel jells as you are driving on I-75 on a -12 degree morning. Ask me how I know. My diesel get's additive now.
At the very least it's smart to run diesel additive for the cetane boost.
Kerosene works great.
Did it one winter in school bus when cold snap caught us using summer fuel.
Nothing. Its a gas tank not a storage vessel for bathtub chemistry experiments.
You can't make 10gal of bad gas good by adding 12oz of anything, you then have 10gal 12oz of bad gas.
The secret is to not build something that wont run on pump premium.
The second part of the secret is to not tune it on the edge so that it is undriveable if you cant find premium.
Tip - Most premium fuel is stale because no one buys it, better to set it up to run on regular and avoid all this nonsense.
I've heard it's all the same, but I did have a 120k miles Toyota 22RE run very noticeably better after the full Seafoam treatment. It might be worth noting that the truck sat for over a year, I bought it as someone elses stalled project.
belteshazzar wrote: soooo, only slightly off topic... would a water/meth injection setup do these new direct-injection engines any good?
In terms of thermal efficiency, possibly. Not in terms of antiknock though, as I understand it, a DI engine can't experience preignition because fuel is injected just before the moment ignition is desired.
Mothballs.
I swear by seafoam in my high mileage cars. I have taken high mileage civics and with a oil change, seafoam and some new plugs take them from smog failure to running clean enough to pass.
I have no idea how it works but man have I made some money with that trick.
My dad used to fill the tank half way with 87 Octane, then fill the rest with 110 Octane. Why? I still don't know to this day, I should probably ask him.
DrBoost wrote:iceracer wrote: You don't need no stinking additive.Not when your diesel fuel jells as you are driving on I-75 on a -12 degree morning. Ask me how I know. My diesel get's additive now.
Ive been meaning to tell you......I put a box of strawberry Jello in your tank as a joke.
Ive experienced a difference with Gumout w/regane, seafoam and Redline synthetic fuel system cleaner. Tried most of the others over the years with no apparent difference than before. Not saying they did nothing, just that the top three I could feel a difference in how the engine ran vs. before I put them in and it was improved by those additives
logdog wrote:DrBoost wrote:Ive been meaning to tell you......I put a box of strawberry Jello in your tank as a joke.iceracer wrote: You don't need no stinking additive.Not when your diesel fuel jells as you are driving on I-75 on a -12 degree morning. Ask me how I know. My diesel get's additive now.
?
Kenny_McCormic wrote:belteshazzar wrote: soooo, only slightly off topic... would a water/meth injection setup do these new direct-injection engines any good?In terms of thermal efficiency, possibly. Not in terms of antiknock though, as I understand it, a DI engine can't experience preignition because fuel is injected just before the moment ignition is desired.
i was thinking purely from a cleaning standpoint.
iceracer wrote:logdog wrote:?DrBoost wrote:Ive been meaning to tell you......I put a box of strawberry Jello in your tank as a joke.iceracer wrote: You don't need no stinking additive.Not when your diesel fuel jells as you are driving on I-75 on a -12 degree morning. Ask me how I know. My diesel get's additive now.
Thats why his fuel gelled
If you ask someone from autozone/AAP they would advise what ever is sitting next to the register. I have used the STP gas treatment with success on my Ford Explorer. I always put additives in my diesel trucks. I have also used seafoam on older cars and it seems to do the trick.
Ethanol
I used to use a bottle of Techron every 3k miles in my street cars without any evidence that it did any good or bad.
Now, I mix a few mL of Lucas Upper Cylinder Lube into each jug of fuel for the racecar. Again, I have no evidence that it does anything.
Seafoam same as everyone else has mentioned.
Contrary to Bentwrench's statement, one of the large bottles of Marvel Mystery Oil got a car that sat for about a year with 3/4 of a tank of modern E10 from hard to start/ran like crap, to start right up and runs great. Poured the MMO in and shook the car the best I could to mix it in the tank, may have just helped clean up fuel lines/injectors from sitting so long, but it worked.
Our TDI gets 4oz (I think) of Stanadyne Performance Formula with about 90% of it's fill-ups.
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