The Cobra needs ball joints, but it doesn't make sense to replace them and keep the stock stamped steel LCA's since it's already coil-over equipped (Eibach Pro Street). Which tubular LCA do I go with? The MM is $600, which is nuts, but AFCO and QA1 both make a ~$290 set that look like they'd work with my setup, or QA1 has a budget-friendly one that looks a little weak. Anything else out there I should be looking at?
Remember, most lca's are drag race oriented.....
Ranger50 wrote: Remember, most lca's are drag race oriented.....
and how do they differ from stock or those that aren't for drag racing?
There are a LOT of aftermarket mustang pieces that are absolutely NOT adequate for autocross, much less track days. Buyer beware!
Personally, throw some steeda x2's at it to raise the front roll center a bit, bumpsteer kit, and enjoy. (and if you have the LCA off, carefully replace with poly bushings, they can bend in a press, so CAREFULLY)
http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10228&highlight=chrome+horn
http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2422
http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3286
http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25368&highlight=Granatelli&page=6
(yeah, I know, its all from the "league of extraordinary shiny happy people ", but they do a good job of bringing the tech.)
Stefan (Not Bruce) wrote:Ranger50 wrote: Remember, most lca's are drag race oriented.....and how do they differ from stock or those that aren't for drag racing?
The priority is for drag racing stuff is most often light weight, and especially getting weight off the front end. In some cases, the secondary consideration is low cost, which makes things even more concerning.
In reply to Apexcarver:
It already has a bumpsteer kit. The stock LCA"s have 160K on the stock rubber bushings, so there really isn't a point to rebuilding them when I can source a tubular one so easily. It's just which one?
Stefan (Not Bruce) wrote:Ranger50 wrote: Remember, most lca's are drag race oriented.....and how do they differ from stock or those that aren't for drag racing?
Mustang drag LCAs don't have sway bar mounts and replicate stock geometry, while the LCAs for people who go around corners usually have forward-offset geometry for more caster and various sway bar mounting options.
Javelin wrote: In reply to Apexcarver: It already has a bumpsteer kit. The stock LCA"s have 160K on the stock rubber bushings, so there really isn't a point to rebuilding them when I can source a tubular one so easily. It's just which one?
MM is where'd I go.
I realize it's pricey, but the weight and amount of load wide sticky tires will generate.....I'm not willing to risk a critical suspension component over $$$$
Working at a shop that does lots of road-course and autocross Mustangs, the ONLY SN95 or FOX arms or crossmember I'd use on a customer's car are the Maximum Motorsports arms. I've just seen too many janky arms and K-members fail in too many ways to trust some of the cheap, knockoff crap that's sold for bottom dollar.
Another vote for Maximum Motorsports.
Are the $700 MM arms really that much better than a set of $300 QA1 or Afco's?!? I'm not shopping $150 eBay knock-off's here!
And both the QA1 and Afco have sway bar mounts.
In just looking at them, the MM's seem a bit beefier than the AFCO's with bigger cross bracing and sway bar gussets. Are you sure they're $700? I think this page says "arms"... I'm assuming both are $350? MM product page
Either way, nice project!
Not sure what you are looking at, the MM FCAs are $350.
Huh, dunno how I got to $700. Okay, $350 for the MM seems reasonable. Offset or non-offset? Stock k-member (for now), mostly street driving, with SCCA CAM autocross, and a little drag racing.
I don't think the MM arms fit on a stock K-member. you will have to bite the bullet and get the whole lot.
It makes reference to the amount of offset with stock vs mm k-member. I'm pretty sure that means it fits the stock k-member?
Javelin wrote: In reply to Apexcarver: It already has a bumpsteer kit. The stock LCA"s have 160K on the stock rubber bushings, so there really isn't a point to rebuilding them when I can source a tubular one so easily. It's just which one?
I understand what you are pushing at, unfortunately the answer is "ones that dont risk failure of a critical part during your expected usage".
The MM ones are the only ones I would consider, you had indicated a price that was unfeasible (hey, I hadnt looked at them for mine because I am trying to stay ESP/STP legal) and my thoughts were that I would MUCH rather swap balljoints and do poly bushings on the stock parts than any of the others.
A problem with mustangs is that the vast majority of people who modify them only street drive them. Or, if they do race, its drag racing, which doesnt even come close to imparting the loads on the suspension parts that even autocross does. I hear your assertion that they arent ebay knockoffs, but my experience is that some of these brands are absolutely no better. I have seen parts fail and I would ONLY consider parts that I know were designed with roadracing/etc in mind, because of the expected usage of my car.
looking at http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Forward-offset-Front-Control-Arms-1994-04-Mustang-P395.aspx it notes "Moves front tires forward 3/4" with stock k-member.", so it appears that you CAN use MM FLCA's with the stock K member. They have a pretty awesome tech line to my recollection, so calling them and asking questions is a solid option.
I'll have to call them again, I also need to know if there are any geometry improvements with the wheels on the stock location. I'm not real excited about moving my wheels forward but it is the only way to help I will.
Currently I have 1998 spindles with 04 cobra brakes on a 1992 mustang. I did go with the steeds X2 ball joints for both bump steer and roll center correction. My next upgrade is a torque arm and coilovers front and rear.
My race car has a full MM k member with arms and coilovers front and rear, on an 89 notch. We had to do some fender trimming with the arms on that one, we just don't know which ones they are. It rides better and handles way better than my 92. Just saying the MM stuff works.
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