Like the title says, anybody have a suggestion for really really good electrical contact cleaner specifically for ECU harness and pins. Cost on this one is literally no object.
Also dielectric grease spray that works on ECU wiring harnesses as well. I got a car that I am helping a friend with that is expensive and Italian and well the ECU connections are NOT as waterproof as you would think.
CRC is hard to beat for cleaners. Grease I usually buy in the tube, put it on thick and clean up the mess after it oozes out of the cracks.
As a note, the non-flammable chlorinated brake cleaner is safe to use on energized electronics. The CRC energized electronics cleaner is almost exactly the same stuff. Non-chlorinated brake cleaner is a no-go, however. It's super flammable (and IMO, doesn't clean most stuff nearly as well anyway, it's basically just wimpy carb cleaner).
CRC Contact Cleaner (I use the QD stuff for cars and airplanes) and a tube of DC-4. Works on commercial aircraft, and I used to hammer it into navigational equipment, never had an issue with it on my cars.
I like this, mostly because it's available locally at guitar shops:
I use the CRC stuff. Satisfied so far.
Enyar said:I like this, mostly because it's available locally at guitar shops:
It's funny because I use the CRC Electrical Contact cleaner on all my guitars and cars. I'd bet they're both fine.
CRC fan here as well. There brake cleaner costs about .50$ more a can but I use about half as much to get things clean compared to the house brand stuff.
wearymicrobewearymicrobAlso dielectric grease spray that works on ECU wiring harnesses as well. I got a car that I am helping a friend with that is expensive and Italian and well the ECU connections are NOT as waterproof as you would think.
Stabilant 22 is amazing. It isnt a cleaner. You use it after a cleaner.
They call it liquid gold due to the cost. I have used it with great success on Audis (its a special tool for them, its how I found out about it) along with miscellaneous CAN and ghost faults on many other cars.
Crc contact cleaner or deoxit work good.
logdog said:wearymicrobewearymicrobAlso dielectric grease spray that works on ECU wiring harnesses as well. I got a car that I am helping a friend with that is expensive and Italian and well the ECU connections are NOT as waterproof as you would think.
Stabilant 22 is amazing. It isnt a cleaner. You use it after a cleaner.
They call it liquid gold due to the cost. I have used it with great success on Audis (its a special tool for them, its how I found out about it) along with miscellaneous CAN and ghost faults on many other cars.
That seems like it would be perfect for the slow window issues Mazdas always seem to suffer from...
Deoxit D5- it has saved many stereo components from the landfill.
I've used CRC MAF sensor cleaner, I've never compared the contents on back of can compared to their elec contacts cleaner though. I figure if it's safe for something as delicate as a MAF sensor wire, why not? I think I've used brake cleaner as well especially harnesses or plugs in around a greasy engine compartment.
Aspen said:Deoxit D5- it has saved many stereo components from the landfill.
I also have re-animated many stereo components with Deoxit-D5. That stuff is amazing - it's like magic in a can. Totally worth the cost.
Thanks guys I ordered
Deoxit some CRC and the Stablent.
Anything is worth a try before a 5 figure ECU swap
Deoxit is good stuff.
I used it with great success on a slow "sealed for life" power trunk lock on the Subaru and weak door locks on the F250. Drill a small hole in the plastic case, flush with deoxit, cover the small hole with a dab of RTV, reinstall. Totally made a weak power lock into an awesome lock, and it cost $free.99 vs the $100 a lock motor was from a dealer, and you know any junkyard one would be just as questionable.
A clever man could even drill a fill and drain hole and do it all in-chassis without removing the offending motor.
A
Every Italian and British bike owner knows DeOx-it is the way to get home. DeOx-it shield for waterproofing afterward.
wearymicrobe said:
Anything is worth a try before a 5 figure ECU swap
Amen, but even if it didn't work I'd be throwing an AEM in whatever Italian thing it is before I put another factory ecu at that price.
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