Why Are My Flares Wonky?

I'm trying  to flare a 14 inch hardline. I'd buy a pre-flared line but they are only 12 or 20 inches available locally.

So I  bought the 20 and rented the flare tool from Vatozone. It is the standardmulti hole base, with open clawed press. All the ones I've seen in successful YouTubes videos lock on to the base.

This turd will NOT seat square. I file and chamfer the stub, lubricate the die and no matter how I do it, it ends up ovoid. No way will it ever seal correct.

Are the loose jaws of the press the probable culprit? Any brick and mortar that sell decent value tool kits?

I am trying to understand your issue.  Are you having issues with the clamp or the press?  For the clamp I usually tighten the cam side first then the regular which helps grab the tube better.   If it's the press I will usually twisth the press yoke against the clamp so it's centered by force instead of just the cone.  If that makes sense.  Ensure your stickout is spot on (I use the die head thickness I believe is what the instructions say).  

I bought the Lisle brand press when the die on my Jegs one left it's pin behind in my brake line and it was a quality tool that flared all the Subaru lines.  

In reply to nocones :

Definitely issues with the die and press. The clamp is good, no slippage.

What I noticed was the die trying to roll to one side. Probably because the press isn't exactly centered. It was also a rental, so abuse, neglect,  and just plain worn out might be an issue.

This is what I was getting.

Appleseed said:

In reply to nocones :

Definitely issues with the die and press. The clamp is good, no slippage.

What I noticed was the die trying to roll to one side. Probably because the press isn't exactly centered. It was also a rental, so abuse, neglect,  and just plain worn out might be an issue.

This is what I was getting.

I think you have answered your own question. The die looks wallered.

I bow the the guy that can make those flares work....

Are you chamfering the inside and outside of the tubing? Are you sure your cuts are square?

In reply to NOT A TA :

Filed flat. Debured and chamfered the ID. I really think that loner kit's die is worn, coupled with a press that tried to go every which way but straight.

I was able to make a pre-flared segment work. And then had to mangle the bleeder screw to get it out. Lawd, I hate fighting rust.

Everyone loves the mastercool sets.  And I'll sure they're all that     But I didn't want to drop $350 on one.  So I did some research and got a Rigid kit (345 comes to mind) for $100.  I did our bronco's brake lines and a bunch of others and it has worked amazingly better than the Autozone loaner tool I had used previously.  
 

in case you want a good kit that's not super expensive. 
 

it was amazing having every flare come out  good vs 1 in 3. 

In reply to jfryjfry :

Thank you for the recommendation, just ordered one. Hoping it bridges the gap between $345 and the $20 HF kit.

Another helpful tip is use the nickel-copper lines. They flair so much easier than steel. My bluepoint flailing kit loves the stuff.  I recently replaced all the lines in my GMC truck and using the nickel-copper lines made the job so much easier.  

Think about it this way.  Imagine that instead of going to autozone, renting a tool, watching tutorials, reading the instructions, getting frustrated, doing it again (and again, and again, and again), coming to the forum, asking what was wrong, buying another tool, waiting for it to show up, gambling that it will work, and hoping it turns out OK, all you have to do is walk over to your toolbox, get the Mastercool kit out, cut the line, flare it, and install it.  

To me, that's priceless.  

In reply to 93gsxturbo :

Good one.