Xj Cherokee lift vs. steering questions

Well.... beat my head against a wall all weekend trying to rebuild the suspension and steering on the Jeep.

Front is buttoned up, already broke two upper shock bolts in the rear, so that's going to be a berkeleying treat.

My questions are pertaining to the front, though. Got the lift on, Rancho 2.5-3" lift. Noticed that the track bar didn't really line up all perfect until we started cranking on the steering wheel to get everything to shift over. Weird.

Get on the internet, read that when lifting a Cherokee, you want to either drill new holes for the factory track bar to attach to (nope!), get a drop bracket (Ok, but doesn't really seem like an exact science), or get an adjustable track bar.

I'd like to just get an adjustable track bar. Any recommendations? Seems the problem is that a lot of people with about a 3" lift have problems finding an aftermarket track bar that's SHORT enough for their small lift.

Also: Drop pitman arm? Necessary? Or one of those things that with a small-ish lift like this, you just wait and see how it behaves? I'm having the truck aligned at 4 Wheel Parts whenever i figure out what the berkeley i'm going to do about the rear end, so i can have them look at it if need be, i'm just wondering how i know when i need to get one.

I used the drop bracket, cheaper than the adjustable track bar, worked OK too. Pro-Comp kit.

Track bar and steering linkage should run parallel, so if you get a drop track bar bracket you need a drop pitman arm also.

93gsxturbo wrote: Track bar and steering linkage should run parallel, so if you get a drop track bar bracket you need a drop pitman arm also.

Which was another reason why i just wanted an adjustable track bar. There doesn't seem to be any downsides to them.

I'm just overwhelmed by the number of choices, as well as the sheer amount that don't seem to be for such a "baby lift" like what i did. Kindof thinking i should have just skipped to a 5" lift.

You could probably get away with using all stock steering parts, but you'll lose lock angle in one direction and gain it in another.

A drop pitman arm is probably the best fix here.

GameboyRMH wrote: You could probably get away with using all stock steering parts, but you'll lose lock angle in one direction and gain it in another. A drop pitman arm is probably the best fix here.

I'm not real interested in "get away with." SWMBO drives this thing daily.

The pitman arm isn't really on my "worry list" right now. I don't think it needs to be replaced. Angle isn't bad on that joint at all, and 4 wheel parts has them in stock if it turns out i need one, they'll just chuck it on when i take it to them for the alignment.

It's the track bar that i'm not liking, since if not the right length, it'll shift the axle left/right, which also puts un-needed stress in directions i don't want stress in.

I don't have near the compliant left/right flexing due to 190k mile shot rubber rotted bushings anymore.

I ran a 2" lift for years with no steering adjustment.

The steering wheel was slightly off. It could have been corrected by moving the wheel one notch to counteract, or by adjusting the tie rod ends equally in the same direction.

I never noticed a difference in low speed tight turning from side to side, although theoretically it was there. Drive it first, see if you notice. If not, take the steering wheel off and move one notch, or turn both tie rods an equal amount in the same direction.

For the rear shock broken bolts, buy this: hf air hammer use the pointed bit, hammer upwards and the bits will come out. Then drop bolts in the empty space from above. You will be able to fit a wrench in the access hole. I suppose you could pound the broken bolts out with a hammer and drift, but the tool is only $10 and it actually works.

Good luck.

I’ve also used a drop bracket with no problems on my old Cherokee with a 3” lift. Anything over 3” I’d get an adjustable track bar. Bracket is only $30 so if you try and don’t like it you are not out much money.

I have a good air hammer and a bunch of attachments, I'm not too worried about the rear. I'm not EXCITED about it, but i'm not worried about it.

Kinda wish i had gotten these at the same time, though.

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-SBPEK&Category_Code=UP

Why did you lift it again?

pres589 wrote: Why did you lift it again?

Because overland build and still pretty cheap overall. Including shocks and now an adjustable track bar, i still have well less than $700 in the entire lift itself.

Everything else is stuff that needed to be replaced even if it was staying stock.

Getting new quality OEM replacement shocks and new rear leafs (they were totally shot, completely flat) would have been about the same money, plus then i'd have to buy new lower control arms anyways.

Make sense from a "what am i going to do with this jeep" as well as a "well... look what i could do for the same money" perspective.

The issues i'm having stem from 1) normal jeep things and 2) me not knowing a damn thing about trucks. Not from this being a bad idea.

I know you're against it for whatever reason, though, as you've questioned it in at least 3 threads now.

I went with an adjustible trackbar for mine, but have 5.5 inches of lift, which is too much lift in my opinion. I did it to clear 33s, but looking back the 31s with a small lift were plenty.

As for the brand trackbar I think it was this one, but it's been years, so I'd have to look at the bar to be sure. http://www.rocky-road.com/jeep-cherokee-track-bar.html

I think it's funny that OP is willing to throw suspension geometry off by swapping a bunch of parts out but NOT willing to fix it by drilling one hole.

Vigo wrote: I think it's funny that OP is willing to throw suspension geometry off by swapping a bunch of parts out but NOT willing to fix it by drilling one hole.

If i had the capability to weld the original hole shut on both sides and build a new box area where the current hole is (because it slopes up), then maybe i'd do it.

As it is, i'm not about to drill a hole that's going to be so close to the old hole that they'll probably become one big hole as soon as i drive it 10 miles.

Think more "Safety concern" and less "lazy or silly OP."

What's ACTUALLY funny is that OP, while normally being one to research the hell out of anything before even touching a bolt, never bothered to see if factory steering stuff would all be 100% kosher or not.

And then proceeded to buy a brand spanking new track bar anyways (which wasn't terribly cheap), but OEM, so it doesn't really work 100% correctly.

I would think a dropped bracket would be a far better solution to the lift, while an adjustable track bar would compensate for the centering. if you leave the track bar on an angle, the front end will move sideways as it travels up and down, probably exaggerating the death wobble those things tend to have anyway.

now can we light it on fire?

Bobzilla wrote: now can we light it on fire?

You can buy it and do whatever you'd like to it.

It sure kicked my ass this weekend, though.

You make my head hurt.

And then proceeded to buy a brand spanking new track bar anyways (which wasn't terribly cheap), but OEM, so it doesn't really work 100% correctly.

Uhhh, why? If you're not willing to work with the stock bar and brackets, you either need an adjustable bar, a different bracket, or ideally both. You bought an OEM piece?

I have a JKS adjustable track bar on my WJ. When I lifted it 3" my axle was off 3/4" or so. The JKS bar has bushings that are more stiff and it's a really solid piece. At your height I don't see many people running dropped pitman arms as there's no reason to do it. The WJ uses crossover steering instead of the inverted Y that's on your Jeep. My ZJ has the same setup as yours and there was an adjustment on one of the links to center the steering wheel.

In reply to bluesideup:

You cannot post in ANY thread about a WJ without getting me all hot and lustful. Pics/specs, NAOW!

Vigo wrote:

And then proceeded to buy a brand spanking new track bar anyways (which wasn't terribly cheap), but OEM, so it doesn't really work 100% correctly.

Uhhh, why? If you're not willing to work with the stock bar and brackets, you either need an adjustable bar, a different bracket, or ideally both. You bought an OEM piece?

I bought all these parts over a year ago.

beans wrote: In reply to bluesideup: You cannot post in ANY thread about a WJ without getting me all hot and lustful. Pics/specs, NAOW!

I don't have any pics of mine but it looks like this with an inch higher lift and white instead of blue. I drive it back and forth to work mostly but it's pretty capable off road while being comfortable. I have a 2.5" BDS spring lift with a 3/4" spacer up front, Bilstein 5125s, JKS tie rod bar & track bar, 245/75R16 Hankook DynaPro ATMs, and some other little stuff. It's a Selec-trac 4.0 drivetrain. I'd like to add a front receiver for recovery and mounting a removable winch.

I think on the XJ you can upgrade to the steering linkage from a V8 ZJ which is a little more stout. Since it's a D30 you can probably get crazy and install WJ knuckles for better brakes but I don't think they'll fit 15 inch wheels.

My JKS bar would go shorter than the factory bar, maybe their XJ version would do the same?

I actually already did the ZJ linkage, it's a little more stout, as well as less parts, which i like. Less failure points.

Just remembered, can't you put a different pitman ARM from a f150 to drop the steering link a little? While your in there check the "frame" for cracks, mine was bad.