It is not much to look at, but it is all mine:
It is not much to look at, but it is all mine:
That looks great (and just screams to be cafe'd!).
Heh. You should have seen my XS when it came home with me; it was a rolling frame, an engine partially disassembled, 4 cardboard boxes and a large plastic flower pot full of greasy parts.
The Cafe Process has already begin. Take is off. Fuel lines removed and thrown away. Carbs come off later today. My sone and I are shoping for new bars, seat and tank.
The only real problem I have is with compression. I had 150 psi in the right cylinder and 145 psi in the left. Squirted some oil in and it dropped (yes dropped) to 125 psi in each. I retested both and got no better than 130 psi. Throttles open or closed makes little difference. In fact, it is better with the throttles closed. Since it is better with the throttles closed and squirting oil made no difference, I am betting that the problem is with the valves (stuck, out of adjustment or both). That will be addressed during the week.
In reply to Moparman:
Did you run it before the compression test? If it hasn't run in a while there may be rust on the valves/ seats.
RUN IT! the valve seats stems and rings are rusty from sitting. Toss a battery at it push it down the road untill it runs then run it for 5 minutes while squirting wd-40 and ATF mix and hope the cops or fire dept don't come...
My wife has been on my case because I don't have a current project, guess I'm making her nuts. When she saw your 450 Moparman, she suggested I find one to Cafe'. (think she wants me in the garage barefoot and pregnant?)
My friend Ron has 18 motorcycles, three are 450s. He may sell me one to finance his next 305 SuperHawk project.
Thank you!!!!!!
In reply to fasted58:
Won't run. Throttle cable is shot fuel lines were leaking and crumbling. I am going to clean and adjust the valves and see what happens.
914Driver wrote: My wife has been on my case because I don't have a current project, guess I'm making her nuts. When she saw your 450 Moparman, she suggested I find one to Cafe'. (think she wants me in the garage barefoot and pregnant?) My friend Ron has 18 motorcycles, three are 450s. He may sell me one to finance his next 305 SuperHawk project. Thank you!!!!!!
Wow, I am impressed with a wife that give approval when shown a after picture, but one that can see potential in a old 1970's Honda? 
Here's an Idea for you... A CB350 I saw this weekend.
(actually is a drag bike that was raced in the 70s)
Rusnak_322 wrote: Wow, I am impressed ....
It gets worse. 
Yesterday my buddy Pete came around with his new BMW K-1200LT and now she's asking what we can get for the R-1100rt we have.
Bless her little head.
OK, checked the valve lash and all is ok. There is hardly any visible wear marks on the cam surfaces. The chain looks new and tight. Either my compression gauge is scrwed up (I am beginning to wonder given my inconsistent test results. Or there is a problem in the valve seats. Once I get the throttle cable and the carbs sorted out I will fire it up. I had the covers off the Keihins and except for a small amount of varnish, they looked good. The real problem is that the throttle shafts are rusty. Dk how I want to address them.
Had nice long write up but lost it...errr.
Head over to Tractor supply grab a gallon on Evap-o-rust it not an acid and did not harm my steel an alum parts just removed the rust. http://www.tractorsupply.com/evapo-rust-trade-rust-removal-128-fl-oz--1340932
It works
I heart those torsion bar valve springs. Honda was always so far ahead with so many different things back then. They sorta choked in the '90's, just recycling a bunch of their '80's designs with BNG (Bold New Graphics) but they are strong in innovation once again.
OK, the bike is stuck in gear, the clutch is gummed and the bike is now stuck in gear. I am attempting to take the cover off, but two of the three machine screws stripped. I drilled one of the stripped screws out after all else failed. What else can I do?
The best tool is the slide screw driver that you hit with a hammer. I went through two on my old Honda, but they were $5 cheap ones from harbor freight. They sell nice stainless Allen head screw kits that are so with it
In reply to Moparman:
it's a sign that it's beer time bro 
In reply to fasted58:
What I am doing right now.
All screws are out. Cover won't come off
Which cover is this? The magneto cover on the left side? If so, Honda has a habit of machining a raised 'register' on the back of those so they are perfectly aligned. It fits snugly into the case opening. Look around the edge, you should see a small slot, probably on the bottom side. Stick a flat screwdriver in the slot and twist. Do this politely! The case should move outward. Then go to the top and do the same thing in the gap you just opened (be careful so you don't gouge the cover or its register). Keep doing this till it pops off in your hand.
If you are trying to remove the cover on the right side, it comes off the same way but what you are accessing is the centrifugal oil filter. This thing is bolted onto the end of the crank and 'slings' particles out of the oil. It has an end cover held by a big snap ring and you will see a spring loaded bushing in the center of that cover, that matches with a hole in the outer cover you are taking off. When you reassemble the outer case, pay attention to the hole in the cover and its matching hole in the case. That's the oil passage from the oil pump. Usually the bolt pattern is offset so it will only go on one way so that won't get mixed up.
You can see the 'slot' I mentioned cast into the main case, just ahead of screw # 18. To get to the clutch, you will have to remove the big right hand case, item #1.
I got it.
Actually, I am trying to get to the clutch
Yep, the big case has to come off now. Do yourself a favor and get one of those hammer driven impact drivers before you go any further (I'm assuming you don't have one now).
Those 1970's Honda screws are made of something very similar to cheddar cheese and will round out if you look at them crosseyed. That's why I say if I meet that guy Phillips he will die a horrible lingering painful death, I don't care if they were designed as a torque limiting device.
Clutch after case removal:
Not a 450, but the design is similar.
I wanted to take the sprocket cover off to check the end of the clutch cable. I have all screws out and the adjuster holdown out, but it won't budge. Do I have to remove the adjuster too?
I feel like hooking up my impact wrench. woo-ha-ha-ha
It uses the same setup as my XS650 for the clutch release, that weird worm screw thing. That means once the sprocket cover screws are all removed the case should come off easily and no fiddling with the adjuster would be necessary. In fact, what you can try is this: run the adjuster screw all the way in till it bottoms. Then squeeze the clutch lever. This should make the case move out, unless there are still screws in it or corrosion making it stick.
This site says they have tech info and service manuals available: http://www.hondatwins.net/forum/index.php?sid=5a54660d1978fd0e87ef7e06bd07429f
I downloaded the tech manual (factory) and it does not mention the sprocket cover. All edges are free. It feels like it is being bound in the center.
Bet the clutch adjuster is stuck in the case cover this unit is strange on a 70 cb the adjust fits in a large bore in the case cover and has a fork that rides around it that resembles a shift fork on the other end of the fork in a dowel pin so either the adjust is stuck in the case cover thus not allowing the case to pull off and or the dowel holding the fork is stuck.
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1970-honda-cb450k3/o/m9138#sch395170
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