Learn Me GM 4x4 PU's Roughly 10 years old?

Looking for a pickup truck, mainly for house/yard stuff. Never had 4wd or full-sized, several small to mid-sized 2wd manual transmission models in the past. All newer trucks seem to be very pricey and loaded for a yard truck. Have seen a few 2004-2007 Chevy/GMC full-sized trucks with LS based V-8's for semi-reasonable prices. All are autotragic transmissions, so if that is the case I'd want 4wd so I don't get stuck in some of the places I'd take it (2wd with manual trans would not be a problem, but I've been places with that setup that 2wd with auto trans probably won't reliably go).

What are the problem areas with this generation GM 1/2 ton 4x4 pickups? What do I need to look out for? Are there mileage related issues like BMW coolant systems? How severely do they rust?

Please educate me...

Thanks,

Some random person on the internets...

The bodies do rust, mostly in very visible places. Like any american truck, the front suspension isn't all the easy on wear parts. 4L65E transmissions last 150-200k, then about half that between rebuilds. Cooling systems are generally past due for a flush and fill. If it has the locking rear diff, don't beat on it too hard, especially shock loading/suddenly grabbing traction (e.g. snow/ice/gravel to pavement with them spinning), they have a habit of exploding when abused. Better than the Ford or Dodge of the era.

Thanks Kenny!

Most of the one's I'm finding in my price range are 200k miles and state they have rust but either the pics don't show it very well or it isn't very serious. I don't expect to cause rear differential destruction, won't be "wheeling" in it. I just have watched too many people get stuck in wet grass on a slight incline in trucks with 2wd and open diffs.

Yeah, I mean the only one I have any experience with (5.3 99 GMC half ton) does occasionally put 2 black strips on the pavement and is no worse for wear. In my opinion people hate on the 10 bolt (and the gov-lock locker) because it's not really strong enough to do things beyond the design constraints of the stock truck, e.g. putting giant tires on it.

The rust is generally in the rockers, cab corners, and rear wheel arches. Check the bed crossbeams if you see a lot of rust on the outside.

Oh yeah, the factory brake lines are/were made of salted cheese, not abnormal for them to have all been replaced (or be in serious need of it) on a rust belt truck.

Ok, side question - Anybody know Dodge Dakotas? One of SWMBO's coworkers has a 2007 Dakota crew cab 2wd v-6 auto with about 90k miles that he might make us a deal on. I'm sure he's taken good care of it and the crew cab would occasionally be useful for moving people (considering we don't have any cars with 4 real seats), but I think there were a good number of problems with the last gen Dak's?

I'm still leaning towards full-sized 4x4 if I have to deal with an auto trans...

A crew cab dak will have a small bed, about 5' or so. If your coming from small trucks, it won't be bad, even a little bit wider. As far as general knowledge on 3rd gen daks, I have a club cab V8 4x4 in the family fleet. The interior is cheap, and it rusts like it's paid to. I don't have anything else to add that could pertain to a V6 2wd.

fuel lines and brake lines rust badly in the snowy regions frams rust through/break here too

Dakota turned into a non-option based on the "friend" lack of discount...then two 2500 extended cab Chevys didn't want to be bought.

So how are the 2000-2005 Suburban/Yukon XL's?

Same applies, very similar.

Dang it, why is it so difficult to find somebody willing to sell the vehicle they bothered to advertise? Is everybody suffering from ADHD or just pretending that they actually want to sell to keep SWMBO happy?

You have to be aggressive with these people.

I have an 06 Sierra WT with a manual. I have 220k on it now and bought it new. As far as problems, like someone already said the front suspension wears and requires maintenance. The original locking diff failed around 70k but the aftermarket TruTrak locker is still working like the day in installed it. If you happen to find a manual equipped truck check the trans out carefully as they are a little weak in the 1/2 tons. On my truck at 170k the main bearing cluster in the trans let go and the movement in the trans managed to bend the crank shaft on my 4.8l. I was able to find a very low mile 4.8l replacement and had the trans rebuilt but the trans parts are hard to find so be ware of that. I love my old GMC and when I finally decided to replace it last spring I bought pretty much the exact same truck although I could no longer get the manual trans. I undercoated my truck the day I brought it home and the body is not rusty at all. I wish I had undercoated the inside of the rear pumper thought because I have rust showing thru that I believe starts from the inside. If I grind the paint off that bumper there may be nothing left but the body is still very good. If you are near the Ohio area I could be convinced to let mine go for around 3k if you don't mind high mileage and zero options. I wouldn't hesitate to buy one of these trucks even with the autotragic. Mine always served me well with the exception of the trans failure taking out the engine and I worked for a construction company and towed many cars with mine, it was never babied and always comes back for more even today.

I have a 185,000 mile Denali XL with no drivetrain problems. Rust is two bubbles on the hood and a couple on pass rear wheel arch.

A friend I just talked to has the pickup version with just under 300,000 miles with nothing but maintainance.

After more looking and further discussion, I think we're going to shift focus and look for a Suburban/Yukon XL with 4 wheel drive. A little less practical in that I can't go get a load of sand, gravel, mulch, etc. dumped into the bed but probably better for travel, tailgating, and passenger space and we can still get plywood etc. and sleep in it if necessary.

Any advice on best years, problems to look for, things/features to avoid? Want to stay under $7.5k and not have to drop $2-3k on repairs/maintenance within a few months after purchase. Don't plan on towing a lot of weight, but wouldn't mind having the capability if it isn't a big step up in $.

At this point in their life, is there an appreciable difference in price between a 1/2 and a 3/4 ton? I personally went with the bigger truck on the theory that 1/2's were slightly under built in order to be more comfortable/cheaper vs the 3/4 tons that were built to work with comfort and price being secondary.

As far as maintenance and repairs, make sure whatever you buy is in good shape and has records. Expect to have to change all fluids (brakes, coolant, etc) filters (fuel, air, cabin, oil) and do other basic maintenance and possibly tires immediately. Maybe lean towards a $5k truck and keep the $2500 in reserve for repairs?