1988RedT2 said:I have been known on more than one occasion, to rip 2x4's on my table saw for this very reason.
At least a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood still measures 48" x 96".
Unless it's T&G, masonite, or luan. You really have to measure.
1988RedT2 said:I have been known on more than one occasion, to rip 2x4's on my table saw for this very reason.
At least a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood still measures 48" x 96".
Unless it's T&G, masonite, or luan. You really have to measure.
All my 2x2 steel is 2x2....
In my shop, wood is for wheel chocks, subwoofer boxes, and protecting my drill press table.
In reply to Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) :
An 8' stud isn't 8'. It's 92 5/8".
alfadriver said:In reply to ShawnG :
Cheaper, but you end up with boards that are not square. 1.5x1.75 Which can be a pain.
Huh?
I set my table saw fence to 1.5", make two passes and I get a pair of 1.5 x 1.5 boards and a little strip that goes in my wood stove.
They're most certainly square, my fence is set up properly.
Not sure why you would split it down the middle unless you needed to.
DeadSkunk (Warren) said:06HHR (Forum Supporter) said:I'm about to start on a new fence for my backyard, you guys got me wondering if 2x4x8 still means an 8 foot 2x4. Guess i'm making a run to Lowe's before I start digging post holes for 4x4's at 8 feet apart.
My local box stores all sell 8 foot 2x4s in two different lengths.......8 foot or 7 foot 9 inches. Measure before you load the cart.
They're selling two different products.
2x4x8' and 2x4 studs
It's really, really simple.
A 2x4 is construction lumber. All construction lumber is actual dimension (2x4, 2x6, etc) when it is rough sawn at the mill.
When that rough sawn timber gets passed through the planer, it loses a bit on each side, that's why it's now 1.5" x 3.5". Just remember to drop half an inch when building projects and everything will turn out great.
Then go buy quality hardwood lumber and find out why you can buy 5/4 and 6/4 etc lumber which are actually 1.25" and 1.5"
SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) said:All my 2x2 steel is 2x2....
In my shop, wood is for wheel chocks, subwoofer boxes, and protecting my drill press table.
Came here to say basically the same thing. This is one of the reasons I prefer metal.
In reply to obsolete :
a steel chicken coop sounds heavy. And expensive.
Removed the laying boxes to modify, so the eggs roll out when they lay. Because chickens are stupid, and they break their own eggs. Eggs are 5$ a dozen now. If I'm paying for your room and board, the least you can do is provide eggs.
Wood is a good building material, metal is a good building material. They serve different purposes, and are used differently.
alfadriver said:Here's the other head scratcher- if you didn't get treated boards, the 2x2 thickness would be the same as a 2x4. Why are treated 2x2 that small???? Makes no sense.
pressure treating involves pressure, pressure squeezes things.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PaO6sVIQjrY
Rotisserie chicken isn't sounding so bad.
On another note.
The box is hinged at the blue line. Ive bought two latches for this, and neither of them work. Tried a barrel lock on the side, and the barrel just came out. Tried a hasp safety latch, and its too loose to be useful. Ive run out of things to try.
The Florida Man solution would be a bungee cable...
A hook and eye on the side would work.
Of course , I would try magnets. LOL
In reply to Purple Frog (Forum Supporter) :
I'd rather not admit I didn't even consider a hook and eye, although it would probably not keep tension either. Since the front piece is a 2x4, it wants to stay open. I might need to change that up so I'm not using the latch to fight gravity.
You'll need to log in to post.
