Add power outlets to enclosed trailer

Hello all,

I'm new to Grassroots but not racing, I have an 8.5x20 enclosed trailer. I bought  a Ford F150 Powerboost with the 7.2Kw generator built in. I would like to add either a 240v or 120v outlet so I can plug my truck into my trailer either while diving or at the road course.

I'd love to find a surface mount for the outside to not add any more drag.

Has anyone done this and have any pictures or suggestions?

Thanks in advance,

meterman

Just to clarify, you are plugging the trailer in, not plugging something into the trailer? You want a shore power plug for a boat. Caps over and you connect the trailer to power with a regular extension cord.

This would get you 20A service in your trailer- https://www.amazon.com/Journeyman-Pro-Integrated-Extension-Waterproof-Flanged/dp/B07TXRKZV1/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=20a%2Brv%2Bpower%2Binlet&qid=1655652018&sprefix=20a%2Brv%2B%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-4&th=1

More than that, you probably should also add a breaker box- there are both 30A and 50A inlets that are like the above for RVs.

campingworld.com.

What you want (in my opinion) is a flush-mount twist-lock connector.  They're also available at big box stores, but they are more typically designed for a j-box which is just a little more cutting. 

You can do the same thing with an edison plug, but then there is nothing preventing it from falling out as things jiggle.

As far as the trailer wiring, I would consult RVIA guidelines.  You don't want to use residential stuff given all the flexing and shaking.  There are unofficial standards that RVIA sets forth for RV manufacturers of tried-and-true methods for high-voltage circuits that are safe.

I'm not sure how the truck's inverter is protected, and I don't know how much you'll be powering in the trailer so it's hard to recommend further.  If the inverter is protected sufficiently and you're only going to run lights and an outlet in the trailer, just run the wires.  If you're running 240v to operate 6 circuits, 2 AC units, a fridge, and a welder, I would suggest the trailer have its own breaker panel.

Like this:

Edit:  Or even better:

^ The connector on the trailer needs to be a male and not a female.

Using a conventional style like the one posted by alfadriver will allow you to plug it in anywhere with a regular extension cord.

stuart in mn said:

Using a conventional style like the one posted by alfadriver will allow you to plug it in anywhere with a regular extension cord.

The downside to that is now you're limited to 20 amps.  That's fine if you just want to plug in some lights, a laptop charger, etc but it won't run an AC on the trailer roof.

I've got a 30 amp shore power plug (male) on the exterior of my trailer.  That feeds a small breaker box in the trailer, with circuits to AC, lights, outlets, etc.   While I certainly try to find either a 30 amp (or 50 amp with an adapter), I've been stuck at some tracks like RRR with just 120 VAC.  With another adapter, I can plug a regular extension cord into into the  30 amp shore power outlet.  I've never had any problem running the AC with just 120, I think it's a 15k btu unit.  To me it's more of an issue in the cold if I'm trying to run two 15 amp space heaters, then I really need the 30 amps.

codrus (Forum Supporter) said:

stuart in mn said:

Using a conventional style like the one posted by alfadriver will allow you to plug it in anywhere with a regular extension cord.

The downside to that is now you're limited to 20 amps.  That's fine if you just want to plug in some lights, a laptop charger, etc but it won't run an AC on the trailer roof.

 

But it does have to be ballance with the source.  You can't draw 30A from a 20A source.  I would *hope* that the truck has the appropriate outlet for 50/30/or 20A that can be extended into the trailer.

I am about to add the 20A to my trailer, as we are allowed (in Michigan state parks) to use both the 20A and 30A source at the same time- which helps on a very cold or very hot day.

alfadriver said:

But it does have to be ballance with the source.  You can't draw 30A from a 20A source.  I would *hope* that the truck has the appropriate outlet for 50/30/or 20A that can be extended into the trailer.

Googling, the F-150 hybrid has a couple of different generator options.  The 7.2KW one provides several 20A 120V outlets as well as a 30A 240V (NEMA L14-30)

https://www.midtownmotors.com/ford-f-150-powerboost-engine/

codrus (Forum Supporter) said:

alfadriver said:

But it does have to be ballance with the source.  You can't draw 30A from a 20A source.  I would *hope* that the truck has the appropriate outlet for 50/30/or 20A that can be extended into the trailer.

Googling, the F-150 hybrid generator provides several 20A 120V outlets as well as a 30A 240V (NEMA 14L-30)

 

30A it is!  Pretty cool.  And that also means that meterman looks into the requirements that Curtis pointed out- with breakers and whatnot.  There are some very cool RV breaker boxes that can also charge (and run) the 12V system.

(Although if all he wanted was simple 20A power....)

edit- just noticed that it's 240V, which is different... not so simple.

There's a lot of confusion in the original post. 
 

You don't know if you want 120V or 240V??

Are you trying to plug the trailer into the generator on your truck?

NO, you should NOT have live 240V power connected from your trailer to your truck while driving down the road!

I don't know how anyone can tell you what plug to use when you don't even know what voltage you want. 
 

So many questions...

Gentlemen, we all fell for it. The OP is a canoe with 1 post who became a member 2 days ago.