Anti-seize or ???

I have 2 alignment bolts that are seized in the bushings on the front of my s2000. It seems to be a common problem on hondas in general. I'm going to go ahead and replace all four alignment bolts while I install a urethane bushing kit on the front, but what should I put on them to prevent or prolong these from seizing again? Anti-seize seems to be the go to answer, but won't it dry up since it will be exposed to the elements a bit more than if it were used on a regular bolt? Bearing grease maybe? I don't know. What does the hive say?

Use anti seize but understand that it may not matter, they might seize anyway. Anti seize is just grease and a variety of metals and stuff that are supposed to prevent corrosion once the grease dries. It works pretty good, but bushing sleeves and bolts are just one of those things.

I wouldn't worry too much about it drying up. It won't completely vanish and it should still be greasy enough in there to minimize corrosion.

Just dont get anything on the head/face of the bolt/nut, otherwise they wont stay tight and/or will be massively over strained if you crank em down. Lightly coat the threads, shank, cams, etc, but leave any plane perpendicular to the bolt centerline dry.

I thought it was the centerline that got all buggered up

Good point about not getting any on the nut or the head of the bolt...but yeah anti-seize works best, even when it "dries out."

Thanks for the advice guys, especially the part about not getting it on the mating surfaces. I never would have thought of that on my own.

Marine grease?

Sean and I use anti seize on everything, almost, it makes things so much easier to remove later. Ohio uses salt and Sean is a County mechanic, he won't do up a bolt without it.

I also anti seize everything, it makes life much easier when things have to come back apart.

I have a trust bottle of copper high temp never-sieze that seems to be as old as my garage. I use it on the backs of wheels and lug bolt/studs so these winter/summer wheels come off. I also use it in many other places. Is that okay,or am I asking for trouble. I have had troubles with wheels coming off from them fusing with the rotor face, but since I started using this method I have never had a problem.

We do the same thing Chris, every time.

Mazdax605 wrote: I use it on the backs of wheels and lug bolt/studs so these winter/summer wheels come off.

I put antiseize on the threads once; the wheels fell off 200mi. later, I'll stick to the hub only from now on.

Mmadness wrote:

Mazdax605 wrote: I use it on the backs of wheels and lug bolt/studs so these winter/summer wheels come off.

I put antiseize on the threads once; the wheels fell off 200mi. later, I'll stick to the hub only from now on.

I put it on the threads of every lug of every car that I've owned in the last 15 years at least and I've never had a single nut loosen. I agree that between the wheel and the rotor face is the really important part though. Nothing is as frustrating as not being able to remove a flat after all of the nuts are off.

aussiesmg wrote: Sean and I use anti seize on everything, almost, it makes things so much easier to remove later. Ohio uses salt and Sean is a County mechanic, he won't do up a bolt without it.

Aussie speaks the truth here.

He told me a story once about when he still lived in Australia, and used to coat babies with anti-sieze, so that the dingoes would just slide right off of them.

mazdeuce wrote:

Mmadness wrote:

Mazdax605 wrote: I use it on the backs of wheels and lug bolt/studs so these winter/summer wheels come off.

I put antiseize on the threads once; the wheels fell off 200mi. later, I'll stick to the hub only from now on.

I put it on the threads of every lug of every car that I've owned in the last 15 years at least and I've never had a single nut loosen. I agree that between the wheel and the rotor face is the really important part though. Nothing is as frustrating as not being able to remove a flat after all of the nuts are off.

x 2, I suspect the nut behind the wheel failed you

grafmiata wrote:

aussiesmg wrote: Sean and I use anti seize on everything, almost, it makes things so much easier to remove later. Ohio uses salt and Sean is a County mechanic, he won't do up a bolt without it.

Aussie speaks the truth here. He told me a story once about when he still lived in Australia, and used to coat babies with anti-sieze, so that the dingoes would just slide right off of them.

Go back to work now, you are not funny Will.

Spoolpigeon wrote: what should I put on them to prevent or prolong these from seizing again? Anti-seize seems to be the go to answer, but won't it dry up since it will be exposed to the elements a bit more than if it were used on a regular bolt? Bearing grease maybe? I don't know. What does the hive say?

Anti-sieze doesn't work because it is moisture-permeable.

Supposedly, regular ol' Vaseline is not. I haven't tried it to verify that it keeps bolts from rusting to the sleeves, though.

Another thing you can do is throw away fasteners and sleeves that have had the cad plating corroded off. That's more of a PITA than having to cut the heads off of bolts so you can press the remainder out to save the bushing, though.

mazdeuce wrote:

Mmadness wrote:

Mazdax605 wrote: I use it on the backs of wheels and lug bolt/studs so these winter/summer wheels come off.

I put antiseize on the threads once; the wheels fell off 200mi. later, I'll stick to the hub only from now on.

I put it on the threads of every lug of every car that I've owned in the last 15 years at least and I've never had a single nut loosen. I agree that between the wheel and the rotor face is the really important part though. Nothing is as frustrating as not being able to remove a flat after all of the nuts are off.

I never put it on the stud threads .. it's too easy for some to get squished forward and get on the mating surface ... but I DO put a tiny amt on the threads inside the lug nut threads ... that way any getting pushed around while running them on will be away from the mating surface

Knurled wrote: Another thing you can do is throw away fasteners and sleeves that have had the cad plating corroded off. That's more of a PITA than having to cut the heads off of bolts so you can press the remainder out to save the bushing, though.

The good thing is that I'm starting completely fresh. The energy suspension bushing kit has new sleeves and I bought all brand new hardware from the Honda dealer. This is the best chance I have to prevent it from happening again.

Also, I feel kinda dumb. A guy at work mentioned the cad plating and explained it to me. I had never heard of that before, even after playing with cars all these years.

Mmadness wrote:

Mazdax605 wrote: I use it on the backs of wheels and lug bolt/studs so these winter/summer wheels come off.

I put antiseize on the threads once; the wheels fell off 200mi. later, I'll stick to the hub only from now on.

You got it on the taper then, I even use anitseize on FLAT seat mag wheel lug nuts, you know the ones that are notoriously hard to keep tight. Never a problem, torqued to factory spec. Well, besides the time I think I forgot to tighten much past finger tight fixing some bullE36 M3 till 5 am, and those stayed put for a like a week.

I don't think I've ever used the stuff, but I'm pretty sure that's because 99% of the time I'm taking it apart again a week later.

aussiesmg wrote: Sean and I use anti seize on everything, almost, it makes things so much easier to remove later. Ohio uses salt and Sean is a County mechanic, he won't do up a bolt without it.

X 3. I put it on just about everything including the threads on my wheel bolts and have never had a problem. If you want to see something funny mention that at a tire shop and watch the "OMG you are going to die" response.