Brake pads/fluid question

Ok, so I made sure my brake pads were well lubricated with brake fluid... Just kidding.

Fiance's Toyota Corolla (2003 or 2004, I have been driving this car for 6 years and still don't know) was having brake issues. You had to press the pedal way down to get anything, but once you got there, it stopped just fine. Pump the brakes with the car off, and the pedal gets hard--so I'm not freaking out, but concerned. Pop the hood, nearly no brake fluid in the resevoir.

Hmm...

We limp it down the street to the shop (I decided about a year ago, I'm never working on her car again--I'll pay to have that one fixed), and they tell us it needs new brake pads and the rotors machined. Passed on having the rotors machined, because I have experienced no shimmy or anything with it, but why would replacing the pads fix the fluid issue? I understand that the pads are worn, and the calipers have to extend farther, but is it really that much? I ask because when I replaced mine (all 4) on the Miata, the resevoir was still pretty full--and the pads were all the way down to the backing plate on mine.

When the pads get thin, the caliper piston has to push out farther to make contact. do that at all 4 wheels and the fluid level drops. different cars have different capacities. Im sure the calipers on her corolla use more fluid and are much larger than your tiny miata calipers

Also, I refuse to put new pads on old, unsurfaced rotors. That's the FASTEST way to have brake squeal and uneven wear as the pads cannot properly bed into the rotors.

Have them surface the rotors its just good policy

In reply to ryanty22:

Bingo. I'm cheap, but I have my limits. I've seen bad pad slaps too many times to do it myself.

Bobzilla wrote: When the pads get thin, the caliper piston has to push out farther to make contact. do that at all 4 wheels and the fluid level drops. different cars have different capacities. Im sure the calipers on her corolla use more fluid and are much larger than your tiny miata calipers Also, I refuse to put new pads on old, unsurfaced rotors. That's the FASTEST way to have brake squeal and uneven wear as the pads cannot properly bed into the rotors.

But would it do it for only 2 wheels (rear drums are damn close to new)

They were going to charge us $50 to machine the rotors. I'll go to O Reilly's across the street and get two new ones for $40.

Then buy new ones. Remember, those that can do. THose that can't (or refuse) pay those of us that do. Don't bitch about the price of what you can do it for if you're not going to do it.

And yes, with the small resevoirs of most modern cars and the larger calipers it's highly likely that once they are compressed with new pads the level will be back to normal. The wife's Accent was the same way when it needed new pads.

Bobzilla wrote: Then buy new ones. Remember, those that can do. THose that can't (or refuse) pay those of us that do. Don't bitch about the price of what you can do it for if you're not going to do it. And yes, with the small resevoirs of most modern cars and the larger calipers it's highly likely that once they are compressed with new pads the level will be back to normal. The wife's Accent was the same way when it needed new pads.

And I will.

And if you noticed, I am paying those who can--even though I can myself. I just refuse to be taken advantage of; it does not cost $50 to machine a couple rotors, and it does not cost $200 for new rotors. I'll do the new ones myself. Take the "holier than thou" attitude elsewhere.

You're paying for someone's time to cut them. To cut 2 rotors in our shop? $100. So paying someone $50 to pull the brackets, clean them, mount then turn the rotors then reinstall? That's a good price. They're not pulling the bracket to install pads.

If you want to get technical, it costs whatever the techs wage (figure $15-20/hr), plus the electricity to, brake cleaner, the wear and tear of the lathe, bits etc. $50 in a shop is a good price.

Bobzilla wrote: You're paying for someone's time to cut them. To cut 2 rotors in our shop? $100. So paying someone $50 to pull the brackets, clean them, mount then turn the rotors then reinstall? That's a good price. They're not pulling the bracket to install pads. If you want to get technical, it costs whatever the techs wage (figure $15-20/hr), plus the electricity to, brake cleaner, the wear and tear of the lathe, bits etc. $50 in a shop is a good price.

Be that as it may, on a car like a Corolla, it does not make sense when I can get a new rotor for cheap. Something like a truck, where it will be $40-$150 a rotor, sure. But I'm not paying more to have my used part brought up to snuff when I can just buy new and do it myself in about 30 minutes (I trust myself not to berk up replacing rotors

Make sure you re-grind the pads so they have a chance to bed in properly. To me, it just seems silly to half ass it the first time only to redo it again when you could have done it all the first time correctly. It's pads and rotors.

Why take the car to a shop for brakes in the first place on a prizmolla it only takes about 15 minutes a corner

ryanty22 wrote: Why take the car to a shop for brakes in the first place on a prizmolla it only takes about 15 minutes a corner

Because every time I try to do something on that damn car, it ends up taking way too long and I break something. I'll just take it in. Don't know why--I worked on my SAAB fine, but apparently I can't do a Corolla. Also, not that it makes a difference, but this isn't a prizmolla, it is the next generation.

Bobzilla wrote: Make sure you re-grind the pads so they have a chance to bed in properly. To me, it just seems silly to half ass it the first time only to redo it again when you could have done it all the first time correctly. It's pads and rotors.

Well, to me it seems silly to drive a Kia, or have any truck other than a Tundra or a Ridgeline

It's way better when you just top off the fluid, then forget you did so when you do the brake job later.

Brake fluid takes paint off QUICK.

Ridgeline?!? I hate those things

ryanty22 wrote: Ridgeline?!? I hate those things

Tis a joke, good sir.

They're actually great mom-mobiles/dad-mobiles.

all this is well and good... BUT if you still experience the brake pedal going too far down before you get bite...

dismount the bolts holding the master cylinder to the booster, gently pull the master cyl clear (you are keeping the brake lines attached and tight)

Once you get the master away from the booster you'll see a small rod. This is an adjustment point. Since you say your pedal goes to far to the floor, loosen the adjuster 1/2 to 1 turn, remount master cylinder and check if the pedal is better... not enough... or too much, and then re-adjust as necessary

mtn wrote:

Bobzilla wrote: Make sure you re-grind the pads so they have a chance to bed in properly. To me, it just seems silly to half ass it the first time only to redo it again when you could have done it all the first time correctly. It's pads and rotors.

Well, to me it seems silly to drive a Kia, or have any truck other than a Tundra or a Ridgeline

Yes, because car choice is just like half assing and redoing E36 M3. Analogy fail.

Bobzilla wrote:

mtn wrote:

Bobzilla wrote: Make sure you re-grind the pads so they have a chance to bed in properly. To me, it just seems silly to half ass it the first time only to redo it again when you could have done it all the first time correctly. It's pads and rotors.

Well, to me it seems silly to drive a Kia, or have any truck other than a Tundra or a Ridgeline

Yes, because car choice is just like half assing and redoing E36 M3. Analogy fail.

Some would say that choosing a Kia is half assing E36 M3

(dude, seriously. Take a chill pill. You're right. Whatever, I really don't care anymore)

results say otherwise.

Usually low fluid and a pedal that only works near the floor indicates a large leak in one circuit.

Swank Force One wrote: It's way better when you just top off the fluid, then forget you did so when you do the brake job later. Brake fluid takes paint off QUICK.

Should I siphon old fluid out to the minimum line before replacing pads and rotors?

I'd start with a full flush and bleed. It could simply be waterlogged fluid, and that's a relatively easy thing to try. The low fluid can be worn pads (as noted) but the worn pads won't give you a long pedal.

I never, ever have a rotor machined.

If the surface is not scored, just take it of and CLEAN it. Brake clean and fine sandpaper. If it scored, new rotors are near the machining cost. Just be sure you clean the new rotor.

Most rotors these days start out so thin machining them will put them near the wear limit anyhow.